Leaving Ptuj along the Drau River, not much river in today’s ride, cute towns and farming mainly corn.
If I had a dollar for everytime I said ‘Wow’ to a colourful house or an emaculate veggie and flower garden … you know the rest….
Just don’t let me loose with a paint brush for the exterior of the house when I get home … any number of colours may come up.
We left Slovenia today and now in Croatia a very flat ride and quite uneventful on the Croatian side, however Varazdin surely made up for that.
First we are staying at a student hostel, while there is semester breaks, the rooms are let out to the public, facilities are amazing, The place is huge and modern, air-conditioned, €3 for one load of washing – washed and dried. Our bike are locked away in a secure park with 340 bike capacity.
To top it off we have stumbled into a festival “Spancifest’ a 10 day event for all ages, lots of kids things going on, buskers, several stages with bands, and food and drinks.
The old town, has been transformed into a vibrant street party. Happy faces, colourful garlands hanging across the streets a real party atmosphere … it is day 2 … how can they keep up this up for 10 days.
Not to mention this delightful historic town, of which I don’t think I’ll get the experience of moseying around it on a quite day which is a bit of a shame.
Within 5 minutes we were in the country and along the Drau.
A coffee stop as we left this morning but they don’t do food … oh well, we’ll find something on the way.
A little tentative on what we are expecting in terms of flooded areas we decided to take a short ride 29km to Ptuj. We were discouraged from the girls in the tourist office to proceed on the southern route so we took the northern. The mountains have now turned into hills, wooded, and some with small vineyards and terraced gardens. We are mainly on quiet roads or good cycle paths. The little villages just roll into each other with a sign post separating them. The houses are up to the usual standard that we’ve seen, tidy, colourful and great veggie gardens. Corn still seems to be the major crop however we are in a wine growing area.
There has been no other tour cyclists today, but we did have an 8am start. After 1hr 45min we are in the region of Ptuj and see 3 touring cyclists … they are from Germany and left 2 days ago from Verezdin. Great news there is no problem with the cycle track other than gravel and there are a few options. Music to our ears.
What a lovely old town we ride into, Ptuj is the oldest town in Slovenia and its very cute.
Breakfast … John is after a toastie … we asked at a cafe and the lady suggested a restaurant ‘the best food in town’, well, just a door that we would not have thought of entering … up some stairs and into the restaurant proper with a garden. It’s around 10.45am, people are tucking into big meals and beers and wine. Well! says John, we’ll be just like the locals … calamari, chips and salad for him; roasted vegetables cheese for me with salad. Beer and wine … brunch! And also complimentary mushroom and potato soup. All for €28.
There is a thermal pool here, it was on my plan for today, a short flat ride, a great couple of hours spent, hopping from pool to pool with the spa jets, then outside on the many waterslides. What fun.
Around 4pm a lovely walk through the old town … the cafe’s have closed and it’s very quiet, a few tourists wandering around taking photos … hard not to resist as it looks so rustic and photogenic.
We see for the third time in as many days a young German family, Mum with an 18mth in front of bike; Dad with a hook for the (maybe 4yo’s bike) and an adult friend. They’re off to the camping park … yes camping as well. The older child rode 15km today, Dad can hook his bike up to his. We first saw them 2 days ago then yesterday and today. They need medals!!!
We went back to the lovy restaurant for dinner … once again, lovely.
A very relaxing day sightseeing and trying to get information to finish the Drauradweg to Varazdin.
We visited the world’s oldest grapevine 400yo ‘The Old Vine‘ and of course a little wine sampling.
Also, a Vinag Wine Cellar that has 2.1km underground full of old wooden barrels dated back to 1862, and much more.
There is a football game on tonight, lots of people in their football jumpers fill the bars this afternoon, before heading to the stadium just north of the city centre.
We cross the river and have a drink with the city towards us, on the shady side, it’s very peaceful, walkers with dogs, cyclists, joggers enjoying the shade, must be a good gelato shop nearby.
Back on the city side, police in numbers on all corners, police cars in abundance, police helicopter hovering … all because of a football game.
Back to the accommodation to change then out again for dinner, the city is back to peaceful quiet, back to its vibrant self; the football supporters have gone to the game.
With good intentions to follow the Drauradweg to Maribor 1000m+ climbing through hills for views.
It was an early start at 8.10am, lovely morning and great ride to Dravagrad through lovely farm land, we are now in Slovenia.
Following the D1 all looks good and wonderful paths through farms and forests to keep us cool until ….
The dreaded road block … tentatively we press on and see several issues with landslides on the side of the road but nothing major. Then another landslide and several fallen tree across the road … ‘no John, not this one!’
Of course, he had to go looking but I wasn’t having any part of it!!
An Italian couple who we met at the hotel … we were able to warn them of the road block. They safely made it across through the landslide and fallen tree … their bikes were lighter than ours.
Back 7km to Dravagrad to the tourist office, ‘closed until further notice, sorry for the inconvenience’ we decided a coffee was in order then to decide plan B. ‘the coffees are cheaper in Slovenia’, he says.
Plan B: on the main road, we share with trucks and cars and, where possible, a little respite on a cycle path. No shade on the road unfortunately, but nice views of the river. We reach Fala, feeling a little fatigued; I remember seeing a train station on Komoot in my research. After crossing the river at the hydro electric plant and walking up a steep hill, the remnants of the once used station with no platform … ouch … all for nothing.
Back across the river and onto a road, not before meeting some other cyclists on a daily ride from The Netherlands, who said it was all downhill to Maribor.
A bit to eat which we had purchased in Dravagrad and off to Maribor on the road. Finally after 90km feeling ‘stuffed’ a cold beer in the square. Garmin gave up on me at 77km after complaining I was off course for hours. So I can’t tell what climbing we actually did.
John is still reminding me that we wasted 4km in Fala but 10km in energy. And the first 14km of back tracking …
A shower and 20min on the bed, feeling energised and off for a 1.4km walk to the centre of town. Nothing like a vibrant city to restore the soul … it’s a balmy evening, lots of bars and restaurants, beautiful old buildings, wide malls and squares. A lovely atmosphere … I don’t like big cities but this ticks a lot of boxes. I’m looking forward to a good look around tomorrow.
It’s a public holiday today but nothing much happening where we are going as it’s all through farming communities.
Leaving at 8am while it is cool, a bit of climbing today but only 40km. Nice shaded areas along the river. Where has the river gone? Somehow we have left the river and riding up and down hills through farming villages. It’s mainly cornfields, a large area around Volkermarkt that has been devastated by the recent rains. However, as we near Lavamund, there is little damage, and the crops are booming. Between villages; small forest areas keep us cool.
It’s coffee time, says John when we approach Ruden, no luck there from the sleepy town. Finally, we find a pub as we cross a main road that looks open, we can just scrape a coffee and cake in before the locals arrive for lunch there are several reserved tables.
1km away we go to another village, yes that is how far apart they are, church bells chime it’s 11am, the congregation gather outside the church to set up tables and a BBQ is taking place, trays of beer, salads and meat cooking. Will John forgive me that I didn’t stay? He rode in and began chatting to a man, and he said, “Sit down and eat with us.” Later, John said he fancied a BBQ sausage.
More hills, mostly down and we arrive in Neuhaus, the museum is closed, the village has no activity, they are probably up the road at the pub. Lavamund is not far and basically downhill as we free-wheel and get there around midday.
Across the bridge hoping for something to be open. The first corner we were presented with parked bikes, some all laden with panniers, bike packers and mountain bikers, in addition motorbikers on tour. It’s about 30C and looks like this town seems like a watering hole for travellers.
The main street is small and adorned with Cafe umbrellas, shops are painted in pastels. A half dozen cafes are open with patrons out the front, enjoying a drink or ice cream.
Bikes; pedal and motor; travel through the town all afternoon.
Further up the town the hydro power plant making the most of the Drau River, then the local sports centre and a camping ground with its own private part of the river for swimming … umm my tent!!!
The street and cafes are very quiet as dusk approaches … the town is returning to it’s sleepy self.
Buzzzz …. I spent a half hour this morning swatting mosquito’s in the room … I had the window open last night without the fine curtains … no mossies for me tonight. No fly screen in Europe.
A nice sunny day top of 30C. Off to the lake (Klopeiner See) an easy flat 5km, equipped with bathers, also seeing more devastation from the recent rains and also hail in July. Tall trees just crippled from the roots?
First up to the tourist office. The wonderful staff set us on the right path (mind the pun). We spoke to the regional manager and he was able to give us up to date info of the cycle path closures. They are certainly on top of the getting everything fixed. Sooo many cycle paths.
Now to the lake, but not before John has another puncture … it looks like he twisted the tube in the first repair … ugh!! He’s becoming a bit of a liability … it’s only 3 weeks!
Hotels and forms of accommodation take up the lakeside for private bathing. Grassed areas and small jetties fill the lakes edge adorned with umbrellas and deck chairs. People enjoying the water with stand up paddle boards etc.
There are some other private areas where you have to pay and there was a free area where we went swimming. The temperature was pleasant 20C and not ice cold, it can get up to 29C this is what attracts so many to this area for sure.
A great evening at a laser show … and riding 5km home at 10.30pm … John quietly S%#tting himself that we may get lost.
Another top ride down the mountain on a slightly different road, great quiet road packed with market gardens.
Fun watching this guy scale the rock by the main road Market gardens
Back on the Drau, evidence of where the path had been closed. Uprooted trees have been cut away, water flow has been redirected. They are on top of the clean up.
Destruction
We are thankful to the local young farmer who told us rather way was okay to get to the Drau, it looked dodgy and he said it was on a 50m of rough stuff. The German man on a bike who lives locally … a path block … he said let’s go … and sure enough the path was okay. Lovely man and good chatting with him.
Closer to Volkermarkt is a deviation which leads us up some unexpected hills … there’s a lot to be said for being mentally prepared for hills … today was expected to be flat!
It’s a Sunday, my worst day of the week in Europe, unless there is a festival, Sunday is closed. Volkermarkt has nothing inspiring and it’s 32C, one Cafe open so a toasted sandwich and beer is all they can muster. Very welcome after those climbs.
Our accommodation is ‘by the lake’ oh dear, more hills, we are cornfields away from ‘the lake’ and you can’t swim in it either. This isn’t even a village … oh yes, there is a church so technically it is.
There is a Billa nearby on a main road which is the only supermarket open on Sunday with limited hours, good to buy some breakfast things. A diner only 1km away specialises in cold platters, a great meal with drinks outside on a balmy evening.
Sunset near lake
All is not lost, there is another lake 5km away which we will investigate tomorrow it is Klopeiner See however, after some research, I’ll be swimming in one of the warmest lakes in the Alpine region … and just to add more, there is a Lights Lake Show tomorrow evening.
Moving on … waking to a thick fog but it has lifted by end of breakfast when we secure accommodation … we have opted for a mountain change for a night.
We leave the Drau to head into a valley, a bit of water overflow, we see evidence of how the flooding is treated with use of gravel to redirect the water flow.
The Drau is tranquil, reflections from the cliff top mountains to our left. Nice to be on the bikes and seeing other cyclists.
Passing through darling little towns … gelato coloured houses, manicured green green lawns, beautiful flowers. Even the washing on lines is emaculate. Today we are with nature, no big towns, corn, potatoes and sunflowers in the paddocks, then areas of forest, nice and shaded from the warm sun it’s heading to 30C.
A coffee stop, the church bells go mad … it’s midday, great coffee and we get a baguette madecup for lunch later … we are learning about these little villages.
We are following the Vellach River. Parallel to the road. Lovely path … until a road/path block … someone has broken the tape, ‘I don’t mind having a look’, I can see that we only need to go back a short way over a bridge to go on the road if need be. So on we go … a few rocks, then further up trees and mud. ‘I can push you through’, he says, ‘it’s too soft’, I say, but Johnny insists … bad choice. The bike tyres are covered in mud, not to mention John with mud covering his ankles, shoes and all. Water is oozing out of the hillside so there is no trouble getting it to scrape off the mud … 45 minutes later of cleaning, it’s time to eat, then off we go. I’m hoping that is the end of it … no such luck … a path slide with sandbags, we stick to the good edge … then a few more obstacles. I’m a little angry by this stage, so I can’t take a photo … this doesn’t get a mention in the blog … it’s total stupidity … what happens on tour … stays on tour!!!
Finally we are able get on the road. My rules in future!!!
Our accommodation at a Gasthaus is lovely, we once again wash the bikes with onlookers from the bar. A lovely balcony overlooking a mountain, the sound of the river close by ,,, what a wonderful day.
… and it got better … evening meal, do you want vegetarian, or snitzel or the menu? Menu please. Expecting to be given a menu to choose from, instead, we were given bowls, a turine of some amazing pumpkin soup followed by pork medallions with roasted vegetables, help yourself to the salad. Best meal out … on leaving we are given a dessert … take to your room if you like, the publican says. We do and decide to go for a walk … wonderful walk amongst farming areas, a farmer still out raking grass with his tractor, the river bubbling away, pines reaching up the mountain … this is heaven as the sun is slowly sinking. Back to have our dessert with some schnapps.
Not to mention meeting a couple doing a morning ride, on the Drau, their daughter in law is from Orange, NSW. They now live in Sydney.
The couple and extended family who are from Holland; he is from Portugal, they have been coming to this area for years for holidays.
Out of our sleepy hollow today to Klagenfurt. The longest 12km ever, first a trip to the bike shop to get a new tube, then a few wrong turns … however by doing so we discovered a flooded crossing that we have to detour on our way to Volkermarkt.
When we finally got on the track today it was a very steep soggy gravel climb, so slippery we walked. Water diverts through the bush path all associated with recent rains and snow melt. In my mind I’m thinking of ways to get back without this track.
Then a long downhill … Klagenfurt was busy with swap meet stalls, street food trucks in the mall … oh too busy!! There is a train that takes us 2km from our sleepy hollow, lovely ride back and walk to the lake nearby for a pre dinner drink. The mountains before are looking grand and clear … beautiful!
A cloudless clear day of 26C perfect. It’s Friday, although all day I have thought it was Saturday. The weekend and our intention of moving on tomorrow may not happen, there is no accommodation available. An event in Volkermarkt and accommodation is at a premium.
Waking from my slumber to constant rain, back for another half hour hoping it would go away. No luck, but by the time we were packed, the rain had gone and sun shining.
I discovered that there was a thermal spring only 800m away, so this morning down the road and through a small bush track, two small pools. Steam rising and bubbles. Two ladies enjoying a morning soak in the luke warm mineral waters. I managed my feet, shoulda, coulda … had a dip at 8.45am.
Back into the centre for a Cafe breakfast, croissants and coffee. John liking a meat and salad roll.
Now off to the Drau cycle path following the R1 to Ferlach … we are booked 3km from Ferlach.
A great ride, ‘It’s not going to be all beer and skittles, John’ I say as I’m looking at the profile on Komoot. He has no idea.
We are riding through the valley through farming areas, lots of cornfields, little sleepy villages, before we know it we are in the forest. The Drau comes and goes from our sights, it’s quite tame today , no rapids.
We leapfrog a lot with other cyclists, as we stop for a photo or two. Quite a few short sharp climbs as we go through a nature reserve as part of the river/lake. John is struggling … he has a flat, a quick pump up but a little later on, a new tube is required.
A morning coffee opportunity didn’t eventuate in the little towns; 2km from Ferlach a Gaushaus full of activity; lovely outside grassed area with tables and heaps of bikes parked. Ĺunchtime spot for us and many others.
We find our Gaushaus in a little village 4km from Ferlach, very sleepy cute town, a lake down the road, lovely mountain views. Home for 2 nights.
life on a bike ... my story 