A walking tour this morning to get some history and stories about the Old Town. Beautiful old buildings, thankfully most have escaped the many wars over the years.
For Games of Thrones fans, of course there are specific tours.
It’s certainly beautiful here, the weather has been superb. Today, we swam at a pebbley beach in a little Cove. The water is still warm enough to be comfortable. I sort of ‘get’ pebbles, but they seriously kill your feet when you get out of the water … the reason why there are so many people who swim in reef walkers. On the positive side, you don’t get sand everywhere.
There is nothing like night time in an old time.
By the way, cats are everywhere here, they almost get royalty status, read in the link, and they are actually good looking, well fed and healthy.
A very quick 11km ride today into Dubrovnik. Great scenery of the coast, with a few hills just to work the legs.
Just as we were approaching the Dubrovnik Bridge the German couple (Rebecca and Jonas) came up from behind … 3rd time we have seen them … what are the chances? Nice to chat again with them.
Over the bridge and down by the port. Two big cruise ships have docked this morning. John is excited; he thinks he’s in Fremantle.
We are able to leave our luggage and bikes at the accommodation to walk into the Old Town. We are approached by a tour scout for an out of town car trip, to the bridge and the mountain for spectacular views. Before a quick walk through the Old Town; it’s tourist central … we’ll do a walking tour tomorrow.
Back to investigate the beach nearby, a short 15 minute walk, John is counting the steps … 253, it’s rocky but lovely and clear and refreshing. just as we are leaving from a different direction, another beach is in our sights, small pebbles … that to explore tomorrow.
A lovely ride today through the inland with stunning views of the coast.
Vineyards and olive groves are still around us as we climb up through the mountains.
A hard day of hill climbing, we reached Ston . ‘Hey, this is what I would think of the Great Wall of China’ and sure enough it is sometimes referred to as the European Great Walls of China.
A very hot tourist spot … off we go on the EuroVelo 8, a quiet road along the coast, full of shade and forest before meeting the national highway. Unfortunately, there was no choice, so we are with the big guns, cars and trucks, however, very courteous.
We reach Slano at lunchtime, we meet a German couple, on bikes who we saw on the ferry yesterday. We compare notes of our travels.
We decide to go further and stay in Zaton, a little seaside town about 11km out of Dubrovnik.
The ride, although very hilly, provided us with stunning scenery today of the islands. Garmin ran out of interest and didn’t record all the ride but I guestimate we did about 800+m of climbing today, I felt it when we went up 2 flights of stairs to our accommodation.
Two busy ports either side of the old town, so many boat/bike tours to accommodate. The car ferry terminal is 3km away.
We decide to move on today, we stayed in the ‘centre’ and the ‘old town’ is only 200m away, a quick wander last night.
Breakfast at our front door, literally! A little bar with a ‘healthy’ breakfast (granola, yoghurt, fresh fruit) for me and ham and cheese toasted sandwich for John. That’s to get us up the 10km climb today after we have a 25min car ferry crossing to Orebic.
Lovely sitting in the very small square watching the world go by. Another older lady, obviously local is also seated … soon an Aussie couple appears for breakfast and there is immediate introductions with the lady. It appears there is a family connection. Then passersby are all introduced to the Aussies. Croatia seems to be a huge family reunion with Aussies over here.
The ferry goes hourly, we just missed the 9am.
Approached by a Sydney man, he’s with his 89yo dad. They have come to Korcula as his dad still has the family home here and relatives to catch up with … very emotional time as the home is in disrepair. A lovely chat with them before the ferry arrived.
PART II
The climb …
10km of climbing with a strong headwind in parts, traffic very courteous as they passed us, I have many stops to take in the scenery … incredible. At 7km a Wine Stall on top of a hill … a lovely lady, she checked the route on my phone … yes … that’s the best way … through the tunnel. John appears a little later … he looks like he’s been held underwater for five minutes and now gasping for breath … only to learn he has another 3km of climbing. Ugh!
A few s-bends up the hill and then it’s a lovely downhill.
PART III
The tunnel …
We have just ridden through the mountains and reach the village of Potomje, first village since the ferry. Lots of cellar door sales for red wine. Also, olive oil is huge in this part of Croatia and through the islands.
We reach the Dingac Tunnel, it’s only 400m long, however at the end it is like wonderland before us. The coastline is exquisite in both directions.
We are still quite high with a lonely road hugging the coastline. Between us and the water are grapevines on the steep slopes, then the road and more vines up the hill. The leaves are turning all shades of golden colours. Red plastic tubs are scattered along the road full of freshly picked grapes.
We weave along the road, no traffic, gobsmacked at the views before our eyes. John says ‘this would have to be the most spectacular ride’, the 10km hill has been erased from his memory!
It’s 32C and the scent of pine mixed with rosemary growing wild on the edge of the road, heavenly.
Zuljana is very quiet a lovely beach. The ‘tourist season’ has passed, lots of apartment signs for rent but most not available. We find a lovely apartment through Booking.com. A lovely swim in the clear pebbley beach. A local small marina, no tourist boats, no English speaking tourists, no castle, no cathedral, no tourist shops, just us, the locals and a scattering of others enjoying the peace and serenity.
An early morning, all quiet in the marinas, a couple of the bike/boats have left, the catamaran which takes bikes is at 8am, we’re off to the island of Hvar.
A very busy town with an attractive castle high on the hill, it’s very touristy.
A coffee, which John said we paid €4 for the coffee and €4 for the view. Indicative of the tourist trade here.
Another stunning day, high scattered clouds sweeping in and out throughout the day.
A trip to the hospital to finally remove my 4 stitches, then as we were half way, we proceeded to make our way up to the castle. A lovely winding path with attractive plants … it looked like new plantings have been going on recently.
We are able to ride along the coast in both directions, a very ritzy hotel in one direction, the other nice little small pebble beaches.
A picnic lunch with food from the supermarket, overlooking a beach and the water traffic as it came into Port. A few steps and into the water. So nice to be able to swim and enjoy the clear water. So refreshing.
This is pure relaxation … swim, kindle, sun.
The port is a hive of activity, ferries, private rental catamarans and bike/boat tours all with limited time to dock and leave.
A 6pm catamaran to Korcula, incredible views of the island of Hvar until the sun sets , we arrive in the dark, to see the lights of the bell tower in the old town.
All is quiet as we leave the old town this morning. A scattering of early wanderers getting that photo with no tourist heads in the way, the pigeons have a free reign in the squares. Restaurants on the promenade; tables are covered for the breakfast trade. Down by the harbour, train and bus station a little bit of activity as people moving around with their wheelie suitcases, just like us, ours are called bikes.
9am ferry to Supetar, no need for ‘skip the queue’, bikes get priority we just go to the front and park on the sides of the ferry. I just love the car ferries.
I had a ‘welcome to Rottnest’ moment as we left the ferry at Supetar, it had ‘that’ feeling … the limestone buildings on entrance, flat with a few houses and cafes.
A coffee and we were off, the Rottnest feeling gone as we rode through olive groves with big olives and dry stone walls. It’s only 17km but some nice hill climbs with spectacular views of the coast, islands and Split town in the distance until we crossed to the other side with an amazing downhill into Milna.
A very pretty marina and small old town. We are staying at an apartment about 1km from the centre along the coast. Lovely view of a marina and constant sail boating traffic.
A swim in the crystal clear waters, only up to my chin … ambulance post closed today … it’s Sunday. Hopefully tomorrow on the next island there will be someone to remove my stitches (YouTube search?).
Wow! Off to the old town for dinner, passing 100’s of yachts all occupied and having pre dinner drinks as the sun is setting, a ‘buzz’! Not to mention the bike/boat tour boats that are also in the mix.
Our restaurant recommendation was fully booked, not surprising with the number of people around in this little town.
I think I would look stupid wearing my helmet without my bike … those cobblestones are sooo slippery when wet …
Great start for the day after a thunderstorm and rain … breakfast just around the corner at 8am. The walking tours are up and running as we watch a crowd pass.
It’s like airport tarmac activity here in the old town, little trolleys weaving through the small alleys with deliveries to shops, too narrow for cars.
A walk to the hospital to remove stitches, unfortunately I have to wait another day or 2 … not what I read on Dr Google for facial stitches …
Another downpour … a quick trip to Spar supermarket … how they transform these old buildings to have a great supermarket, bread rolls, cheese, prosciutto and tomato … added bonus … I love playing with the labelling machine at the supermarkets. Lunch in our room … my little scanpan knife is always first to pack.
The rain becomes more consistent, my WU weather app never fails. There is always at least I really rainy day, I’ve been follow this for days, therefore it was a no brainer, we stayed in Split today.
This is a great opportunity to do some mapping … it’s not wasted.
I reminisce … the rainy day in Mt Fuji it never cleared until 4pm … today was similar although it cleared about 6pm.
The rain cleared in time for the diners to get to restaurants. The live music in the square was uninterrupted, a lovely atmosphere.
A nice ending to our stay in Split, tomorrow it’s back to island hopping and a few good climbing days ahead.
Seriously, I’m warming to this place in more that one way ...
A storm is coming tomorrow and the humidity is quite high, a bit like Brisbane.
Loving the cobblestones, alley ways of all shapes and sizes. This medieval town is simply amazing. A walking tour just made it even more special to know a bit of the history behind these tall ancient walls.
A great walk after dinner, rain threatening but nothing comes of it while I wander down to the port. I lose count of the number of boat cruise craft there are piggybacked in 3s along the length of the dock.
Back to the old town and a guitarist entertaining in a square, songs of the 70’s attracting quite a crowd filling the steps.
What an atmosphere on this balmy evening.
Despite, Split is tourist central, I’m loving it, but glad this is the shoulder season.
Overcast and a small rain shower as we leave Tribunj. A quick 20km ride into Sibernik … maybe we should have stayed there tonight. Lovely old town, with shiny cobblestones and windy alleys.
The tourist office assistant was not there for her personality. Grumpy!, when we asked for a map, explaining we are on bikes. At least I saw the funny side of it. Asking the best/safest way to Split, you shouldn’t be riding at all to Split ‘at your age!’ Then a snide remark when she saw my shiner of an eye, ‘look at you!’ Oh dear, we were definitely taking up her screen time!!!
The rain shower was still hanging around, the mapped route was very hilly … but nothing we haven’t done before.
The 12pm bus wouldn’t take us with the bikes … the train??? Only fold up bikes. Back to the bus station … the 1pm bus will take us.
The bus trip was along the coast … beautiful views and towns and very relaxing.
Split is very busy, a big harbour, a cruise ship is in and many other craft with tourists. I’m not so sure, too big.
Off to the beach, there is sand ‘by Croatian standards’ dark in colour but soft on the feet as I head into the water the wind has picked up and a little choppy, but all the same refreshing.
Off to discover the town, the sun has set, and options for island hopping, wonderful lady at tourist office … extremely helpful. Same issues with bikes on ferries, however she phoned a company who will take bikes … yeah, we can put some plans in place.
The old town is ‘buzzing’ it’s a balmy evening, so many restaurants; so many people, very old buildings.
Every day is special but today just that little bit more …
Setting out for the 8.30am ferry today to Preko … so glad to see the EuroVelo 8 signage today and following it through our island hopping to Ugljan and Pasman.
The ferry assistant very helpful for us to join the correct queue for our ferry. A short 25 minutes and we are on our way to ride following the EV8 … thinking of the NZ guy and the Bike shop guy who reiterated the best way to tackle going south.
We stop at a little village of Kukljca, we hadn’t had breakfast yet. A couple showed us the ‘breakfast’ they had ordered … impressive!! We ordered, later we chatted, lovely couple from Stuttgard, been coming to this island for 18 years, I can see why. They thought we were crazy, later we thought he was crazy … riding with his mates once a year 200km a day for a week. And other different cycling events in the year. Who is crazy … we all are … just living life … hats off to us all!!! He said, you live in the wrong country … I said, you are not telling me something new! … we laughed!!!
Further on we ride on the EV8 some on the quiet main road, over the bridge which connects the two islands then back to the coast, lovely riding.
We chase down a small tractor carrying freshly picked grapes. Our excitement gets the better of us … as they turn into their house … can I take a photo … of course … we follow them into their home as they unload the grapes. John takes a bunch of the pickings … I’m horrified … slap him!!! The guys say, take more, no way I think … this is your wine in the making. Seriously, such yummy grapes!! Lovely people, Mum is there enjoying the sun, an amazing garden, tomatoes, eggplants, this is living!!
Back on track, feeling the love for this island.
A very short ferry trip back to the mainland … you have to love this travel … onto EV8 no accommodation booked, we pass by Pirovac and decide to go further to Tribunj. Nothing booked, we go to a few zimmers but they are all full. I feel we have the whole village looking for a room for us, offering their wifi. We find an apartment and it takes ages to find it with the help of so many. Eventually apartment found … lovely people to hand over the key lots of chats … they are from Serbia and Slovenia. It appears that this town is full is people from Perth, who have emigrated and come back here on holidays to visit family.
life on a bike ... my story 