Those gull sounds … it’s like I’m watching Doc Martin, says John, I tend to agree …

A relaxing day in the old town of Zadar.

Shiny cobblestones line the alleyways and narrow streets. The market is not really busy, however, lots of stalls … the biggest we have seen on our travels this year.

Wandering without the bikes to the cathedral, church and clock tower and up the 180 steps for an amazing panoramic view of the islands nearby. It’s a clear day so views are wonderful. Below is the Roman and Venetian ruins also many others throughout the town.

An afternoon swim … a 10m and 3m diving platform kept us entertained watching the brave, a couple of older men somersaulting giving the young ones a bit of something to think about. John reminisced how that was him once upon a time. A cement platform covered in algae and the kids sliding along it … and I’m thinking of the stitches I’m protecting from the water today, having been a victim of an algae slip. Meanwhile, I’m like an empty corked bottle, bobbing up and down in the water, keeping my face dry.

The sun sets over the islands and we join the throng of tourists up at the Sea Organ, hard to explain, but incredible sounds coming from a combination of the water and air through pipes under the steps of the promenade and air holes.

After dinner back up the promenade past the sea organ to see The Greeting to the Sun, a 22m diameter circular solar light panel, producing a light show at night.

A nice day before some long days in the saddle as we ride south.

When John grows up, he wants to be a car ferry captain …

Today we leave the beautiful island of Losinj. A trip to the hospital for a redressing on my stitches … yes,  they are going well … how long until the stitches are out?, I ask with a bit of hope, ‘5 days from today’, bonus that’s 7 days total, the first Dr said 10 days. Must be the Vitality Island air.

So, we’ve left our accommodation and have a 4pm car ferry to Zadar which arrives at 10.45pm.  Lunch at a restaurant overlooking the marina, we eat slowly our pasta dishes, bread is delicious and fresh,  sour dough I’m sure, dipped in olive oil, I might get snobbish with my olive oil at home.  Who needs butter.

We met a guy coming off the ferry, he’s from New Zealand going the opposite direction, who gave us some different way to venture south, it’s certainly helpful with our Aussie flags on the bikes.

4pm comes around and onto the ferry, it’s overcast today and humid, that stick salt feeling as we are on top deck watching the small islands of the archipelago pass us by.  Why so long? We have 4 stops before Zadar; Permuda, Silba, Olib and Ist.

We are lucky, there are not very many people on the ferry, we have secured some lounges so we can sleep later. No wifi here, lots of kindles and books are out, tourist books and maps making the most of the time to plan.

Every port, John is down in the ‘garage’ looking and what vehicles come on and off, he’s even dressed for the occasion, the crew have navy shorts and navy and white striped t-shirts, just like John has on today.

I can go in the water without getting the sutures wet…

Today we did a bit of forest trekking. Very thankful to be wearing my hiking shoes. First up through the middle road of the island and uphill on the bikes. In places we could see both the east and west at the same time.

1km trek down to the beach, over the rocky terrain with great views of the coast, the dry brick wall still fascinate and pines growing right to the waters edge. We seemed to have it all to ourselves this morning on the road and track. However, when we were making our way back, we passed a lot going down and on the road. It seems really humid as we climb the 1km back up. Back on the bikes and off with wonderful views of the island.

A walk after lunch along the coastal track near our accommodation … a lovely smooth path, rocks to the water but some small paths and ladders everywhere for swimming.

My mind is in Darwin as a kid, the same sort of rocks, where I spent many hours skirting along.

We walk to Sv Martin only a couple of kms a small village with 3 bars on the pier, this is the life as we have a beer and an aperol spritz, while we watch people swimming and snorkelling … I’m envious. Back to our beach, we have our bathers with us, that’s it, I don’t have to get my face wet, there are some very cool change tents and off we go, the water is refreshing but not cold, I’m so glad I took the plunge.

Down town to dinner, a smallboat is in, along with all the day trippers and hire boats which fill up the marina. Another day in paradise.

a stitch in time …

Lovely morning, breakfast at our digs and coffee in the old town to see a quicker way. Along the beach path, we met a couple a lot older than us on foldup bike, his brakes were on when he was going up hill. We tried to help him out, the cables were twisted around so constantly on, his wife’s okay … I showed him the problem. The bikes looked like he had just put them together from Amazon and went off for a ride. ‘Hey, dear, we need more exercise, I’ve bought some bikes for us to get our heart rate up.’ Oh well we sort of sorted him out and he was very appreciative. He didn’t speak English so there was a lot of ‘allora’ going on. I hope they sorted themselves out.

Meanwhile, we found a shortcut to the old town. John had a haircut and I’m booked in on Monday, but having panic attacks as to what this guy will do.

Back at digs, the landlord showing us his pet turtles, a 70yo mum and dad, 4 x 17yo, 4 babies born this year and 6 x 2yo. He breeds them. Very cute, heaps of cut up tomatoes for them to eat.

Then off to the other village Veli Losenj only 5km away with a beach around the point, Rovenska for a swim. Unfortunately, that ended a little badly, I slipped on some algae and split my eye socket open … what I do to see good looking young guys. The guy at the bar is a medical student, he dressed it and said he’d call an ambulance … you need stitches … no I said I’ll ride. At the hospital after a shower another young good looking Dr stitched me up … can I swim? (I knew the answer 😦 ) No, he said but you can ride your bike … funny bugger!!! So 10 days for the stitches to come out, then a swim.

John just wants to know if I can trim his moustache with one eye.

Back down to the beach to watch the peace and serenity and soak up the vitality of the sea air and pine scent.

Island of Vitality …

Another great ride this morning.  Leaving at 8am, a thin layer of cloud today throwing a golden hue on the buildings as we leave.  Up for a 12km climb, thankfully it was only gentle.  Lovely views of the town from way up high, we watch one of the cruise ships leave the port, only to find it in Mali Losinj later.

The dry rock walls and olive groves are a big feature as we ride over rolling hills with some long descents. 

Our island hop onto Losinj goes unnoticed.  We stop to cross a small bridge only metres long … signage of our arrival in Losinj as being the Island of Vitality, those hills are quickly forgotten as I breathe in the scent of the pine trees.

By midday we have ridden our 55km and at our accommodation, only about 100m from a beach (by Croatian standards) crystal clear waters strategically placed paths to the waters edge along the rocks with ladders to the water. The old town is 600m away, where we find the cruise ship docked.

A small shower of rain soon clears, later in the afternoon, we venture down to the beach paths only to be joined by lots of others, strolling along the paths. A few swimmers, I can’t resist.

It’s nice to have a day off … says John

A great day, I promised no hills … we head off to our left along a great cycle path along the waters edge.  Crystal clear water on our right and dry stone walls and olive groves to the left?  People stopped on bikes having a swim in the idyllic waters with their individual place in paradise.

A swim just before we get to the centre.  The pebbles are small, a few enjoying the peace and serenity, its lovely in the water, not cold, very salty and buoyant, much more than home, or is that my imagination … I wonder.

Later we go to the right of the town, not far is the camping park … wow .. it goes on forever with choice beaches … they certainly look after the campers. More swimming.

Back to the centre only 3km … the small jetty has been inundated with 8 boats of various sizes, the 7 days island cruises some with bikes. John looked at one online … £359 per night for 7 days with 36 passengers.

Maybe the climb tomorrow will be easier to swallow.

Definitely better on a bike …

Off to the bus station … hoping for a bus to take us as far as the bridge to the Island of Krk. John was worried about the traffic and roads … I, on the other hand wanted to ride the 25km … but we went through the exercise … the bus would take the bikes for a cost of €20 each and the fare for us is €6 each. Decision made, we will ride … it’s mapped on my phone, enough time wasted!

A lovely ride on mostly quiet roads, and breathtaking views.  A small bar on top of a hill … ‘just going to stop to check where the top of the big climb is’ … ‘wow, we’ve done it’ … ‘that wasn’t so bad’, John didn’t share my point of view. 

Then some amazing downhill before we get to the Krk bridge that takes us over to the Island of Krk. 

There is a very narrow walk/cycle way with not much clearance for the panniers … very tricky riding. 

So, we are now officially ‘Island hopping’ a hilly ride to Malinska, and it’s around 32C, traffic is heavy since getting on the island.  Are you happy to stay here tonight, says John.  The closest hotel looks good and has a room.  A shower, into bathers then a ride along the path past shops and restaurants on the waters edge.  People are sunbaking, some in the water.  The water is crystal clear, small pebbles, a nice temperature what more can a girl want. 

They don’t get many Aussies here, as I ask the lady in a shop, she is passionate about Krk, and I can’t blame her, it’s beautiful and not overcrowded.

A great day today, the 2 men from Switzerland on motorcycles who at the hotel, 1 shook my hand and said 3rd time meeting you today; a view point on the down hill we had a chat, they were interested in us being on bikes, his daughter was meeting him in Krk, she was also on a touring bike with a friend, then coming into Malinska they passed and waved. We also met the daughter … that’s what travelling is all about.

I’m beginning to feel that Croatia is very old.

A bit of a fast track today … we catch a ferry tour to Rovinj one way and cycle 37km to Pula. That all sounds very reasonable.

Only one ferry going today … it is Sunday and a big tour group is boarding, however plenty of room for us and the bikes. A small problem … that is John’s story to tell. He who dares to travel with Johnny … umm!!

A perfect day as we sail along the coast, a stop at Vrsar, of course it is on a hill then at the top and up to the top of the 40m bell tower to get an amazing views.

A short time later passing back on board, a long nudist beach which excites the passengers and crew, we dock in Rovinj another very old town.

Off we go on our bikes for a leisurely ride to Pula along the EuroVelo 8. Well the ‘reasonable’ just disappeared., we pass some lovely beaches on gravel paths until the paths got rougher and we were heading inland until I was in a real pickle what would I do without Komoot. We headed towards the coast, another lovely beach, having to push the bikes across the waters edge with large pebbles, it was a tough 300m.

Time to ask for some advice from the bar … most beaches have a bar … lovely young guy … just follow this path through the camping park and head towards Bale pronounced Bali … a good road but steady climb … John saying from behind ‘where the f is Bale’ … I couldn’t see any barley crops, has he got a seed in his sock?

We get to Bale then it’s 20km all downhill to Pula. With all the stuffing around on dirt roads we have riden 42km.

Finding our accommodation, shower and short walk into the old town … very old with an added bonus … the arena, this is like the leaning tower of Pisa, the cameras and phones are out getting the best shot from various angles and selfies, it’s not that busy, school holidays are over, I think the shoulder season has begun.

At 25C the sun is setting, just balmy, restaurants are starting to get busy, although it is a Sunday, all the shops are open, I’ve lost count of the number of ice-cream shops there are.

Lots of beautiful sea-nery

We just crossed into Croatia … Oops … time for that conversation ‘again’ as we begin our first hill … flat tyre! … ‘Isn’t it time to replace the tyre?, we have been carrying a spare.’  Finally, the tyre and tube are changed.

We won’t talk about the sunglasses that I lost … bought new ones and lost again … John has not noticed yet … see if he read this blog.

The pristine and well signposted cycle paths are a thing of the past.  But didn’t dampen the wonderful ride.

Wow factor!… we spent the day skirting around the coast then through gentle hills with olive groves and vineyards stretching to the edge of the sea.

The coastline is stunning, crystal clear waters, people swimming and sunbathing.  We rode through caravan parks that were like villages .. no need to move once you are set up.

A 73km day into Porec it’s about 30C a little hot and thirsty.  We are in the old town, this is amazing, very touristy but not too busy, Very shiny cobblestones. A swim by one of the beaches nearby on the bikes … yep, this is the life.

A drink in the old town … in Johnny’s terms ‘there is a bit of a buzz here’ a lovely chat with a couple from Holland, they have grandkids similar ages.  We chat about life …

A short walk to the boat harbour, water taxis, sunset dolphin watching and tours on offer.  Tomorrow is another 74km day there maybe an option of going with a boat.  We weigh it up and will decide tomorrow.

Our evening wandering the medieval streets, such a maze with little piazzas everywhere.  From our accommodation we can hear jazz live performances somewhere close by through the streets … bliss, I could easily sleep to that.