Where is the ‘rest” in rest day …

A fun packed day full of adventure and culture. 7.45am at breakfast today who would have known that 1hr later we would be in a chairlift half way up a mountain.

A wonderfully sunny day, perfect to have a mountain adventure on Hochstein. 2 lifts, first level with restaurant, petting zoo, adventure park, mini golf and the alpine coaster.

Right to the top level (2) with breathtaking views, a paradise for hikers and mountain bikers. The mountain bikes in this town are everywhere. Pictures can’t capture the views we had as we were trekking on trails.

Down to the 1st level …it’s after midday already. Into the petting zoo (kidless) but plenty of kid goats, a look at the adventure playground … not just for the kids. All harnessed up and doing the circuit with ropes, I wish I had tried.

A drink, then the alpine coaster down the mountain, some 2.7km … I’m exhausted … I screamed all the way down … in the meantime, mountain bikers of all ages are strutting their stuff as well down choices of tracks.

What a wonderful way to spend a Sunday.

Well, that was great excitement for the day, now a bit of culture … the castle, an art exhibition of local artists, in particular Albin Egger-Lienz … that was my culture for the day, a very good collection, and I learned a lot.

And to think yesterday when we got here, I thought that we should have only stayed 1 night. The ‘smelling the roses tour’ is working.

Weather for ducks … or maybe clay pigeons …

The rain storm over northern Europe finally caught up with us. It had rained almost all night and the weather didn’t look too promising. But thankfully we were able to just get away with sprinkle, wearing our raincoats to keep mostly warm, it was 13C, we were not even damp.

Today we start another leg of our adventure, the Drauradweg we leave Italy and travel to Austria. Firstly, only about 2km to find the source of the river. It wasn’t difficult to find apart from a slight hiccup when we went through a gate (which we shouldn’t) and ended up on military property, it was a rifle range. We then saw the diversion and correct track. A well marked site and noting the dedication to the ‘source’ of the river, it was a run off from a mountain. Water bottles were filled with fresh sweet water.

No effort required today as it was a gradual downhill all the way. Travelling along the river, it was quite a cacophony of water as the run off’s from the mountain entered the Drau.

Within 12km we entered Austria, we met a few cyclists today, all laden with panniers in colourful wet weather gear. I break into Sound of Music song … just can’t help myself!

A stop in Sillian for a coffee at a cafe/chocolateir … the wines and beers were being served at 11am … you just have to love the Europeans.

A favourite of mine around the corner a few kms on, the Loacker wafer biscuit factory … yum, no free samples though, just a roaring trade of people loading up with the huge selection of produce. 2 packets was enough for me.

A few insignificant villages along the way, a few high waterfalls, the mountain and hills were spectacular as were the cloud cover halfway up the mountains. The path was a lovely smooth surface, great for the downhill.

It’s Saturday, and sure enough we stumbled across a bucks party out in the bush …

Lienz is at the confluence of the Isel and Drau Rivers; a lovely neat town a hub for the adventurous, mountain climbing, nature parks, ski lifts, then the many cultural sights around this medieval town.

The main square busy with restaurant trade, we joined for a lunch stop.

In search of mountain views from ski ĺift

This town has two names as Dobbiaco is Italian and Toblach is German, quite typical in this area.

The Grand Hotel precinct has an interesting history link provided here. 

Who was shocked more? 

• The conductor of the orchestra told us this morning that it is a group of 60 here with the orchestra, they are from Milan, or
• When we told her we were on bikes from Australia.

A nice ride today (a rest day) just to keep the endorphins alive, 5km away on the cycle path is San Candido, we are out of the mountains and the hills are green pastures and trees, stunning! on our left and the Dolomites on the right. San Candido is very popular today, sports shops doing great trade with 50% off sales.  A lovely mall, small and touristy, cafes and restaurants.  It’s a little cool; perfect conditions for outdoor activities indicative of the amount of people with backpacks and hiking poles.  A ski lift is a family treat as a fun bob is operating on the way down the slope.

There is a higher ski lift some 6km away at Sesto, off wecgo, the cycle path follows the river and through the forest.  The cloud is a little too heavy, thankfully the ticket seller advises that it wouldn’t be nice today.  Back to San Candido for lunch … all down hill … wow that was quick!  More downhill to Dobbiaco, we managed to escape the rain at 3pm, within an hour it has stopped.

Trying to think the best part of the day … dinner is up there. A recommendation to a restaurant specialising in local South Tyrol food. We are greeted by ladies in traditional costume, men in leather pants. The decor all traditional …now the ambience is set and our meals don’t disappoint; pork spare ribs and potatoes for me and pork loin fillets with vegetables for John, beer and wine. I should have ridden further today. Then we pay are given a complimentary shot of Grappa. My goodness what a day … celebrating our last day in Italy.

Saving the best to last …

Another super day on the bike.  We ride through the forest on limestone gravel paths, a bit rough in places?

Only 28km on the rail trail.  It’s a busy day on the track today, I would hate to guess how many cyclists there are.  At one counter we were 200 for the day at lunch time.

The first 11km was uphill then we came across a Cafe, it’s was the half way point, from here it was all down hill, mountain bikers sped past as we held our brakes with our narrower tyres on the loose stones.

The sky, although high cloud, throws sun on the mountains for amazing clear views as we weave through the valley.  We are shared by hikers, rental electric mountain bikes … I imagine they do a round trip from Cortina for the day.  Lots of tour cyclists with young families and bike packers.  Funny … cyclists always have a smile on their face as we greet each other with Buongiorno.

Cars parked, hikers with poles and cyclist gather ahead … it’s the viewing area of the Three Peaks.  This is what they’re here for … to get an uninterrupted view of these three mountains and do a hike.We try to get a view without the most cloud and off we go.  A poor cyclist broke a chain … ouch …

Just before Dobbiaco we pass a lake, too pretty to not stop, the lakeside restaurant is busy; we stop for lunch admiring the views of the mountains, the hire peddle boats and the bikers that are passing through.

Our accommodation is a hostel in the precinct of the Grand Hotel and the Cultural Centre, and grand being the operative word.  Rooms are big, we have double bunks and have shared bathrooms which are spotlessly clean.

Not to mention the town, neat as a pin.  Bicycles everywhere as we wonder around, lots of sports clothing shops have the end of season sales.  The church is both beautiful inside and out.

After a lovely dinner, we venture back to the hostel, an orchestra is playing.  It appears that we have nailed it, a retreat of a youth orchestra who are practising in a room nearby, I feel quite privileged to be here.

Never give up …

Another magical day.  We are off the bikes today, a stroll into town to one of the many ski lifts, this morning it is Cima Tofana (west), unfortunately due to cloud cover we can only go as far as the first stop – Col Druscie; there are 4 stops in total. The views are breathtaking, and we choose to trek down the narrow paths back to town.

The mall is not overcrowded lots of hikers equipped with poles.  A great day for walking. 

As we are surrounded by mountains we venture to another ski lift on the east, it is closed but a taxi and jeep offer a shuttle service to Faloria.  Yes please!!, so up the mountain by road passing walkers and cyclists … yikes 12% gradient I see on a road sign.  We quickly change to a jeep on a very bumpy track.  We arrange to stay 1 hour, the cloud cover is quite bad … have we made the wrong choice?  Signage up a steep hill in the clouds … I can see people in the distance so head up, the clouds close in.  John says, ‘that’s it, I’m not going any further!’ ‘Okay’, I say.  Ditto … ditto … I keep going, at times I couldn’t see 200m in front just the limestone track.   A couple pass by, Don’t give up! They say.  I reach the top and the clouds clear and sun breaks through … voila!! 

Back down the hill and feeling out of place as we ‘walk’ on the cycle path … it’s still I highway of bike tourers, bike packers and families on bike.  A group gathered at an intersection … a mobile gelato cart doing a roaring trade … and one for me!!! 

As I blog … I can see the cycle path traffic from the hotel window. Followed by an aperitif in lobby/bar.

Wow, wow, wow … it just keeps getting better …

Today we set off expecting a challenging ride; not realising we are on an old railtrail. Trains don’t go steep … yay!

We pass by villages all named with suffixes ‘di Cadore’ only a few kilometres apart. Some of the railway station buildings have been restored; an attraction to the many hikers, walkers and cyclists using this Munich to Venice cycleway. Today it feels like a highway as lots of fully laden touring bikes go by.

Through forest, passing tiny villages perched on hills. The scenery breathtaking as we weave through the valleys with mountains close by.

A lovely German couple from Munich stop and we have a chat. They are going in the opposite direction. Australia needs to up their tourism marketing … they are terrified to travel in Australia because we have deadly snakes and spiders. The second time I’ve heard that during this trip.

The cycle path takes us to our hotel, 2km north of Cortina. We have a quick look at the town first … it’s very touristy, probably the most touristy that we have encountered so far.

Lovely views of the forest and mountains from our window, a walk into the town with drizzling rain. Out come the umbrellas and rain jackets.

A lovely meal tonight of local produce. Walking back to the hotel with the sun setting over the mountains and rainbow … special times.

Another day in paradise …

Off on an adventure on the bush tracks on our bikes … I ask the tourism consultant if there is water in the ‘pond’ that I point to on a map … silly me it’s not Australia! ‘Yes there is water’

On the bike track … must have been an old railway, two old tunnels the lovely surface didn’t last too long before we are steadily braking on rough gravel.  We are join by others hiking and cycling.  The little pond before us … a group of teens equipped with picnic in their boardies, ‘have you had a swim?’ Yes!, ‘Was it cold?, ‘Yes!’ What a great day for them with their mates.  Other families arrive, an esky carried from a car park nearby.

Further on, the lakeside has a bustling Cafe.  It’s a local spot for hiking; a small pond with a pontoon; today trout fishing seems to be the attraction for families.  Crystal clear waters running off from the mountains, rainbow trout being caught.  A manager/owner keeping a close eye on the catches, he weighs and charges €11 per kilo.

Back on the track to the next little village, a bit rough as we wheel our bikes, a local supermarket for lunch items and a cute wooden table and chairs hidden amongst the old fir trees with glimpses of the lake.  This is too relaxed on the ‘smelling the roses tour’

Meanwhile, I head down to the lake lookout, a chocolate gelato in hand and blog … peace!!!

Pasta makes you faster … hills tomorrow. Making up with the best of Italian pasta, Spritz and Prosecco, before we hit Austria.

Every day is a surprise … and I don’t have dementia …

After a thunderstorm and rain over night, the morning was clear and sunny.

A great day cycling … through bush tracks, well maintained cycleways and not too busy roads, travelling along pastures and rivers.  It’s Sunday we share the route with lots of walkers and cyclists out on their Sunday ritual. Lots of tour cyclists out today.

Cute little villages and hamlets, but not without a hitch, short sharp climbs. houses with window boxes flourishing with colour. We are in the thick of it today, nestled up in the mountains and feeling like a midget. The views are breathtaking, as we weave up and down close to the mountain face.

After a lunch stop in a lovely alpine village; a panini and small beer; the serious climbing begins, views are amazing; John is happy for any photo stop. A few switchbacks, I keep well away from the cussing and swearing as John has had enough and is walking … only 3km to go!!!

Pieve di Cadore is a lovely little village, on arrival the first bar we see for a refreshing beer, ‘hey John everyone has hiking shoes on’ looks like it’s going to be a fun pack day tomorrow. The village is full of small alleys and roads, 5pm is gelato, 6pm Spritz, 7pm dinner. A walk with gelato in hand takes us to a park with stunning views of the lake/dam through a forest walk; we stumble upon Casa di Babbo Natale (house of Santa Claus); nestled in the forest in a wooden hut is Santa Claus, complete with postbox; an attraction for the kids, we see several climbing with parents to have a chat.

A breakfast fit for kings at the B&B.  It’s Saturday and the local Cafe is buzzing with diners … as we venture to the central hub of the village. It’s sunny and the mountains are look stunning today.

I have mapped out a circuit around the lake a mix of road and bush track. There is a concert tonight at the lake, already there are bars set and an inflatable soccer competition is underway; soap suds fill the pitch as the players stumble and fall.

Off we go on our circuit first through the bush the the road. There is a grumble from behind … a bit of a sook as we are climbing ‘why didn’t we go the other way around?’  My selective deafness kicks in as I keep peddling.  A few cyclists today small groups; solo roadies and a few tour cyclists. From the bottom of the lake a steady descent with spectacular views of the mountains … a postcard or a cardboard backdrop.  ‘I think we went the right way’, he says … grrrr.

The lakeside is steadily filling with people; families and couples sunbaking on the grassed areas.  The inflatable soccer competition is still going.

A picnic lunch by the lake under the trees amongst the locals … the breeze is in and out come the surf kites and sail boards.

A lovely evening at the lakeside concert followed by homemade gnocchi with ragu sauce, at the local restaurant. We are locals now we ate here yesterday … ‘are you sure it was just yesterday??’ I say to John. It seems such a long time ago.

Arriverderci Prosecco Hills … Bienvenue Dolomitis

We leave with a short climb through the vineyards; the mountains get bigger with each kilometre.

We see the devastation of vines from the path of a hailstorm on Monday night; hail stones as big as tennis balls stripped the vines and damaged cars.

A lovely ride to the picturesque town of Vittorio Veneto, very clean and green; the old town was particularly spectacular.

Now the fun begins as we have a steady climb for 9 kms, overhead the autobahn, lakes and hamlets along the way. The cloud cover is welcome as it keeps the temperature down … perfect cycling conditions today. Breathtaking scenery as we while away the kilometres, stopping for pics. A few road cyclists going the other way, enjoying the downhill.

We get to Farra D’Alpago around noon and are able to check into our accommodation … such a lovely, clean, quaint town. We are the new kids on the block as we get looks on entry at a restaurant for lunch. The waitress quickly finds someone who can speak English, however, spaghetti and penne; beer and prosecco doesn’t need much translation. It hits the spot for our hunger.

The lake is just a short walk, it’s a little windy and the kite surfing school is doing a roaring trade as well as the small sailing boat hire.