A great day to stay in the shadows of tall buildings. It’s 35C today, no rush a lovely relaxed breakfast under trailing creepers, very tropical feeling today.

We retrace some of the steps of the bike tour, although not planned, we are on foot today.

The tunnels nice and cool, built for WWII but never used as this city escaped any bombing. So what did these vibrant people do in 1993 … they opened it up to the first Croatian rave party.

The Lotrscak Tower is the best viewing point of Zagreb at this time as others are closed, our timing was right, as at 12 noon every day there is a cannon blast, what a bonus that we saw it.

A ride on the funicular railway … all of 2 minutes for the whole price of €0.66 … more of a novelty.

There are so many obscure museums here, we chose to go to the Museum of Hangovers, it was a choice of the Museaum of Broken Relationships. A lot of reading of people’s hangover experiences and crazy situations they got into.

It’s getting warmer and time for lunch … great thing here, you can go to a bakery, grab a roll, go and sit at a cafe, order a coffee, in our case, beer and Radler, then eat and drink … you can sit there all day and nobody will move you on. The Croatians support coffee and people watching!! So we are under a huge fixed cafe umbrella with mist sprays and fans.

The city has acquired numerous life sided sculptures over the Covid period. Apparently, they were made for people to take selfies with when it was lockdown and people couldn’t meet for coffees.

Getting all the ducks in a row …

Planning ahead as another weekend approaches.  Plitvice Lakes stay without the bikes … sad but true, it’s too difficult to take the bikes on this journey.  So we are now settled with plan C for Plitvice and moving forward to Ljubljana, Slovenia by train.

Meanwhile, its 34C, the ho(s)tel is called Swanky and that it is, very quirky, the buffet breakfast was in the Swanky Monkey Garden terrace, a beautiful tropical, open decked area full of creepers hanging all around.  Not to mention the pool up, another flight of steps and more garden areas to relax with a drink or meal from the Asian Fusion restaurant next door. 

Curiosity got the better of me, what was this place in it’s heyday? Our room has a treadle sewing machine as a table, the walls are decorated with drawings of sewing pattern pieces … my mind wanders to the days that Mum and I used to buy German Burda books and trace the patterns to make our clothes. 

Back on track … a few web browsers and I found that this was a Dry Cleaning/textile-dye factory.

After our busy day of planning, a visit to the bus station, and a little sightseeing, the pool looks inviting not overly big but refreshing all the same, a drink in the beer garden, better change out of the bathers, then back to have a meal.  Meanwhile the music changes to a bit of jazz, before we know it, the party lights are glowing as dusk approaches and all the tables around and on the other three levels are filled.  What a great day. What a great find for this ho(s)tel, John.

Life is easier on a bike …

After 4 weeks on the road, today we commuted to a town by train. Varazdin to Zagreb. Actually it was 2 trains and a bus. The conductor explained something on the first train, I nodded and signed that we had to change trains. All good … the connection went well but there seemed to be quite a delay as the locals were getting a little anxious. Second train easy roll on, not like the first which needed a lift up 3 steep steps and panniers removed. The conductor had another conversation … umm … that’s strange we are going straight to Zagreb, as I nod, as I completely understand. I’m following our tracks live on Komoot so we are ready when the station approaches. The train stops, and everyone dismounts and all follow out of the station. It looks like we’re being directed to a bus. Oh no, maintenance again. Bikes again in the bus and off to Zagreb. I remember reading not long ago that in Croatia to rely on buses more than trains …

All checked in to the hostel/hotel in the old town, booked on a city bike tour. My mind thinks of 2020, 3 April when we were to fly into Zagreb but the world came to a stand still … today we made it.

Sadly, there was an earthquake on March 2020, which has left the city even today in parts like a construction zone, many old buildings, museums, university buildings etc. have been temporarily evacuated waiting for repair. Not a reason not to visit as it is still a vibrant city with heaps to offer.

A great city bike tour we learned a lot about the city and have some great thing to see over the next few days. Did you know that Nicola Tesla was born in Croatia?

A lovely traditional meal on a balmy evening after a 33°C day.

Finding the end of the Drau cycle path

When I’m on my bike, I’m always writing my daily blog in my head.  As the day progresses things change so much, today is no exception.

The end of the cycle path now has little significance.  The Drauradweg finishes in Varazdin; the Drava bike website finishes just beyond Legrad where we ended up today, supposedly at the confluence of the Mura. Talking to a local at the site today, who informed us that the Drau River finishes at the confluence of the Danube some 200km away.  The rise in the river in 2014 moved the confluence of the Mura a little further downstream. Three weeks ago the river rose again 1m higher that 2014, he showed us on a sign. … and to top it off across the river and over a small hill is Hungary.

All a matter of interpretation for the end.  So well done us … it’s complete and I’d recommended the Drauradweg to cyclists.

The highlight of the day was lunch, thanks to our friend who gave us so much local knowledge … we asked if there was anywhere to eat in Legrad, a couple of kms away, yes there is a restaurant by the church.

We were the only diners in an alfresco area, backing onto a very leafy park, lovely music.  2 beers and yes we would like to eat.  The menu was very fancy, the chef came and introduced himself, advising that the pasta was homemade also some of the cheeses, everything sourced locally.

A complimentary appetiser, homemade ice-cream.  The dishes were presented immaculately, I had a glass of Sauvignon Blanc which was the best I’ve ever tasted.  The meals were amazing.  Michelin Star quality … I say.

A short 14km flat ride to a train station to go back to Varazdin … there is a replacement bus … for some of the way, maintenance on the track.

And not to forget the ride today through little villages, corn and lots of spent sunflower crops, how pretty it would have been some weeks ago when the sunflowers would have been at their prime … we all like green and gold!  Getting tired of the farming route, we take a route nearer to the river, along a levy on the banks Jezero Dubrava; a reservoir on the Drau, a nice alternative … we see and hear the starting gun of the Prelog Wild Triathlon 2023, swimmers in a small lake, then from our birds eye view on the levy, see the cyclists ride by after their swim, only to join them at the rear as our levy path runs out.

Well that’s 4 weeks gone and a other 2 off the bucket list.

What a colourful Saturday …

Leaving Ptuj along the Drau River, not much river in today’s ride, cute towns and farming mainly corn.

If I had a dollar for everytime I said ‘Wow’ to a colourful house or an emaculate veggie and flower garden … you know the rest….

Just don’t let me loose with a paint brush for the exterior of the house when I get home … any number of colours may come up.

We left Slovenia today and now in Croatia a very flat ride and quite uneventful on the Croatian side, however Varazdin surely made up for that.

First we are staying at a student hostel, while there is semester breaks, the rooms are let out to the public, facilities are amazing, The place is huge and modern, air-conditioned, €3 for one load of washing – washed and dried. Our bike are locked away in a secure park with 340 bike capacity.

To top it off we have stumbled into a festival “Spancifest’ a 10 day event for all ages, lots of kids things going on, buskers, several stages with bands, and food and drinks.

The old town, has been transformed into a vibrant street party. Happy faces, colourful garlands hanging across the streets a real party atmosphere … it is day 2 … how can they keep up this up for 10 days.

Not to mention this delightful historic town, of which I don’t think I’ll get the experience of moseying around it on a quite day which is a bit of a shame.

‘We’ll be there in time for breakfast’ …

Within 5 minutes we were in the country and along the Drau.

A coffee stop as we left this morning but they don’t do food … oh well, we’ll find something on the way.

A little tentative on what we are expecting in terms of flooded areas we decided to take a short ride 29km to Ptuj. We were discouraged from the girls in the tourist office to proceed on the southern route so we took the northern. The mountains have now turned into hills, wooded, and some with small vineyards and terraced gardens. We are mainly on quiet roads or good cycle paths. The little villages just roll into each other with a sign post separating them. The houses are up to the usual standard that we’ve seen, tidy, colourful and great veggie gardens. Corn still seems to be the major crop however we are in a wine growing area.

There has been no other tour cyclists today, but we did have an 8am start. After 1hr 45min we are in the region of Ptuj and see 3 touring cyclists … they are from Germany and left 2 days ago from Verezdin. Great news there is no problem with the cycle track other than gravel and there are a few options. Music to our ears.

What a lovely old town we ride into, Ptuj is the oldest town in Slovenia and its very cute.

Breakfast … John is after a toastie … we asked at a cafe and the lady suggested a restaurant ‘the best food in town’, well, just a door that we would not have thought of entering … up some stairs and into the restaurant proper with a garden. It’s around 10.45am, people are tucking into big meals and beers and wine. Well! says John, we’ll be just like the locals … calamari, chips and salad for him; roasted vegetables cheese for me with salad. Beer and wine … brunch! And also complimentary mushroom and potato soup. All for €28.

There is a thermal pool here, it was on my plan for today, a short flat ride, a great couple of hours spent, hopping from pool to pool with the spa jets, then outside on the many waterslides. What fun.

Around 4pm a lovely walk through the old town … the cafe’s have closed and it’s very quiet, a few tourists wandering around taking photos … hard not to resist as it looks so rustic and photogenic.

We see for the third time in as many days a young German family, Mum with an 18mth in front of bike; Dad with a hook for the (maybe 4yo’s bike) and an adult friend. They’re off to the camping park … yes camping as well. The older child rode 15km today, Dad can hook his bike up to his. We first saw them 2 days ago then yesterday and today. They need medals!!!

We went back to the lovy restaurant for dinner … once again, lovely.

A very relaxing day sightseeing and trying to get information to finish the Drauradweg to Varazdin.

We visited the world’s oldest grapevine 400yo ‘The Old Vine‘ and of course a little wine sampling.

Also, a Vinag Wine Cellar that has 2.1km underground full of old wooden barrels dated back to 1862, and much more.

There is a football game on tonight, lots of people in their football jumpers fill the bars this afternoon, before heading to the stadium just north of the city centre.

We cross the river and have a drink with the city towards us, on the shady side, it’s very peaceful, walkers with dogs, cyclists, joggers enjoying the shade, must be a good gelato shop nearby.

Back on the city side, police in numbers on all corners, police cars in abundance, police helicopter hovering … all because of a football game.

Back to the accommodation to change then out again for dinner, the city is back to peaceful quiet, back to its vibrant self; the football supporters have gone to the game.

A balmy evening, for alfresco dining.

With good intentions to follow the Drauradweg to Maribor 1000m+ climbing through hills for views. 

It was an early start at 8.10am, lovely morning and great ride to Dravagrad through lovely farm land, we are now in Slovenia. 

Following the D1 all looks good and wonderful paths through farms and forests to keep us cool until ….

The dreaded road block … tentatively we press on and see several issues with landslides on the side of the road but nothing major.  Then another landslide and several fallen tree across the road … ‘no John, not this one!’

Of course, he had to go looking but I wasn’t having any part of it!!

Back 7km to Dravagrad to the tourist office, ‘closed until further notice, sorry for the inconvenience’ we decided a coffee was in order then to decide plan B.  ‘the coffees are cheaper in Slovenia’, he says.

Plan B: on the main road, we share with trucks and cars and, where possible, a little respite on a cycle path.  No shade on the road unfortunately, but nice views of the river.  We reach Fala, feeling a little fatigued; I remember seeing a train station on Komoot in my research.  After crossing the river at the hydro electric plant and walking up a steep hill, the remnants of the once used station with no platform … ouch … all for nothing.

Back across the river and onto a road, not before meeting some other cyclists on a daily ride from The Netherlands, who said it was all downhill to Maribor.

A bit to eat which we had purchased in Dravagrad and off to Maribor on the road.  Finally after 90km feeling ‘stuffed’ a cold beer in the square.  Garmin gave up on me at 77km after complaining I was off course for hours. So I can’t tell what climbing we actually did.

John is still reminding me that we wasted 4km in Fala but 10km in energy. And the first 14km of back tracking …

A shower and 20min on the bed, feeling energised and off for a 1.4km walk to the centre of town. Nothing like a vibrant city to restore the soul … it’s a balmy evening, lots of bars and restaurants, beautiful old buildings, wide malls and squares. A lovely atmosphere … I don’t like big cities but this ticks a lot of boxes. I’m looking forward to a good look around tomorrow.

A great Bosnian Restaurant meal in Postna Ulica.

It’s a public holiday today but nothing much happening where we are going as it’s all through farming communities.

Leaving at 8am while it is cool, a bit of climbing today but only 40km.  Nice shaded areas along the river.  Where has the river gone? Somehow we have left the river and riding up and down hills through farming villages. It’s mainly cornfields, a large area around Volkermarkt that has been devastated by the recent rains. However, as we near Lavamund, there is little damage, and the crops are booming. Between villages; small forest areas keep us cool.

It’s coffee time, says John when we approach Ruden, no luck there from the sleepy town. Finally, we find a pub as we cross a main road that looks open, we can just scrape a coffee and cake in before the locals arrive for lunch there are several reserved tables.

1km away we go to another village, yes that is how far apart they are, church bells chime it’s 11am, the congregation gather outside the church to set up tables and a BBQ is taking place, trays of beer, salads and meat cooking. Will John forgive me that I didn’t stay? He rode in and began chatting to a man, and he said, “Sit down and eat with us.” Later, John said he fancied a BBQ sausage.

More hills, mostly down and we arrive in Neuhaus, the museum is closed, the village has no activity, they are probably up the road at the pub. Lavamund is not far and basically downhill as we free-wheel and get there around midday.

Across the bridge hoping for something to be open. The first corner we were presented with parked bikes, some all laden with panniers, bike packers and mountain bikers, in addition motorbikers on tour. It’s about 30C and looks like this town seems like a watering hole for travellers.

The main street is small and adorned with Cafe umbrellas, shops are painted in pastels. A half dozen cafes are open with patrons out the front, enjoying a drink or ice cream.

Bikes; pedal and motor; travel through the town all afternoon.

Further up the town the hydro power plant making the most of the Drau River, then the local sports centre and a camping ground with its own private part of the river for swimming … umm my tent!!!

The street and cafes are very quiet as dusk approaches … the town is returning to it’s sleepy self.

Feeling the love …

Buzzzz …. I spent a half hour this morning swatting mosquito’s in the room … I had the window open last night without the fine curtains … no mossies for me tonight. No fly screen in Europe.

A nice sunny day top of 30C.  Off to the lake (Klopeiner See) an easy flat 5km, equipped with bathers, also seeing more devastation from the recent rains and also hail in July. Tall trees just crippled from the roots?

First up to the tourist office. The wonderful staff set us on the right path (mind the pun).  We spoke to the regional manager and he was able to give us up to date info of the cycle path closures. They are certainly on top of the getting everything fixed.  Sooo many cycle paths.

Now to the lake, but not before John has another puncture … it looks like he twisted the tube in the first repair … ugh!! He’s becoming a bit of a liability … it’s only 3 weeks!

Hotels and forms of accommodation take up the lakeside for private bathing.  Grassed areas and small jetties fill the lakes edge adorned with umbrellas and deck chairs.  People enjoying the water with stand up paddle boards etc.

There are some other private areas where you have to pay and there was a free area where we went swimming.  The temperature was  pleasant 20C and not ice cold, it can get up to 29C this is what attracts so many to this area for sure.

A great evening at a laser show … and riding 5km home at 10.30pm … John quietly S%#tting himself that we may get lost.