Saving the best to last …

Another super day on the bike.  We ride through the forest on limestone gravel paths, a bit rough in places?

Only 28km on the rail trail.  It’s a busy day on the track today, I would hate to guess how many cyclists there are.  At one counter we were 200 for the day at lunch time.

The first 11km was uphill then we came across a Cafe, it’s was the half way point, from here it was all down hill, mountain bikers sped past as we held our brakes with our narrower tyres on the loose stones.

The sky, although high cloud, throws sun on the mountains for amazing clear views as we weave through the valley.  We are shared by hikers, rental electric mountain bikes … I imagine they do a round trip from Cortina for the day.  Lots of tour cyclists with young families and bike packers.  Funny … cyclists always have a smile on their face as we greet each other with Buongiorno.

Cars parked, hikers with poles and cyclist gather ahead … it’s the viewing area of the Three Peaks.  This is what they’re here for … to get an uninterrupted view of these three mountains and do a hike.We try to get a view without the most cloud and off we go.  A poor cyclist broke a chain … ouch …

Just before Dobbiaco we pass a lake, too pretty to not stop, the lakeside restaurant is busy; we stop for lunch admiring the views of the mountains, the hire peddle boats and the bikers that are passing through.

Our accommodation is a hostel in the precinct of the Grand Hotel and the Cultural Centre, and grand being the operative word.  Rooms are big, we have double bunks and have shared bathrooms which are spotlessly clean.

Not to mention the town, neat as a pin.  Bicycles everywhere as we wonder around, lots of sports clothing shops have the end of season sales.  The church is both beautiful inside and out.

After a lovely dinner, we venture back to the hostel, an orchestra is playing.  It appears that we have nailed it, a retreat of a youth orchestra who are practising in a room nearby, I feel quite privileged to be here.

Never give up …

Another magical day.  We are off the bikes today, a stroll into town to one of the many ski lifts, this morning it is Cima Tofana (west), unfortunately due to cloud cover we can only go as far as the first stop – Col Druscie; there are 4 stops in total. The views are breathtaking, and we choose to trek down the narrow paths back to town.

The mall is not overcrowded lots of hikers equipped with poles.  A great day for walking. 

As we are surrounded by mountains we venture to another ski lift on the east, it is closed but a taxi and jeep offer a shuttle service to Faloria.  Yes please!!, so up the mountain by road passing walkers and cyclists … yikes 12% gradient I see on a road sign.  We quickly change to a jeep on a very bumpy track.  We arrange to stay 1 hour, the cloud cover is quite bad … have we made the wrong choice?  Signage up a steep hill in the clouds … I can see people in the distance so head up, the clouds close in.  John says, ‘that’s it, I’m not going any further!’ ‘Okay’, I say.  Ditto … ditto … I keep going, at times I couldn’t see 200m in front just the limestone track.   A couple pass by, Don’t give up! They say.  I reach the top and the clouds clear and sun breaks through … voila!! 

Back down the hill and feeling out of place as we ‘walk’ on the cycle path … it’s still I highway of bike tourers, bike packers and families on bike.  A group gathered at an intersection … a mobile gelato cart doing a roaring trade … and one for me!!! 

As I blog … I can see the cycle path traffic from the hotel window. Followed by an aperitif in lobby/bar.

Wow, wow, wow … it just keeps getting better …

Today we set off expecting a challenging ride; not realising we are on an old railtrail. Trains don’t go steep … yay!

We pass by villages all named with suffixes ‘di Cadore’ only a few kilometres apart. Some of the railway station buildings have been restored; an attraction to the many hikers, walkers and cyclists using this Munich to Venice cycleway. Today it feels like a highway as lots of fully laden touring bikes go by.

Through forest, passing tiny villages perched on hills. The scenery breathtaking as we weave through the valleys with mountains close by.

A lovely German couple from Munich stop and we have a chat. They are going in the opposite direction. Australia needs to up their tourism marketing … they are terrified to travel in Australia because we have deadly snakes and spiders. The second time I’ve heard that during this trip.

The cycle path takes us to our hotel, 2km north of Cortina. We have a quick look at the town first … it’s very touristy, probably the most touristy that we have encountered so far.

Lovely views of the forest and mountains from our window, a walk into the town with drizzling rain. Out come the umbrellas and rain jackets.

A lovely meal tonight of local produce. Walking back to the hotel with the sun setting over the mountains and rainbow … special times.

Another day in paradise …

Off on an adventure on the bush tracks on our bikes … I ask the tourism consultant if there is water in the ‘pond’ that I point to on a map … silly me it’s not Australia! ‘Yes there is water’

On the bike track … must have been an old railway, two old tunnels the lovely surface didn’t last too long before we are steadily braking on rough gravel.  We are join by others hiking and cycling.  The little pond before us … a group of teens equipped with picnic in their boardies, ‘have you had a swim?’ Yes!, ‘Was it cold?, ‘Yes!’ What a great day for them with their mates.  Other families arrive, an esky carried from a car park nearby.

Further on, the lakeside has a bustling Cafe.  It’s a local spot for hiking; a small pond with a pontoon; today trout fishing seems to be the attraction for families.  Crystal clear waters running off from the mountains, rainbow trout being caught.  A manager/owner keeping a close eye on the catches, he weighs and charges €11 per kilo.

Back on the track to the next little village, a bit rough as we wheel our bikes, a local supermarket for lunch items and a cute wooden table and chairs hidden amongst the old fir trees with glimpses of the lake.  This is too relaxed on the ‘smelling the roses tour’

Meanwhile, I head down to the lake lookout, a chocolate gelato in hand and blog … peace!!!

Pasta makes you faster … hills tomorrow. Making up with the best of Italian pasta, Spritz and Prosecco, before we hit Austria.

Every day is a surprise … and I don’t have dementia …

After a thunderstorm and rain over night, the morning was clear and sunny.

A great day cycling … through bush tracks, well maintained cycleways and not too busy roads, travelling along pastures and rivers.  It’s Sunday we share the route with lots of walkers and cyclists out on their Sunday ritual. Lots of tour cyclists out today.

Cute little villages and hamlets, but not without a hitch, short sharp climbs. houses with window boxes flourishing with colour. We are in the thick of it today, nestled up in the mountains and feeling like a midget. The views are breathtaking, as we weave up and down close to the mountain face.

After a lunch stop in a lovely alpine village; a panini and small beer; the serious climbing begins, views are amazing; John is happy for any photo stop. A few switchbacks, I keep well away from the cussing and swearing as John has had enough and is walking … only 3km to go!!!

Pieve di Cadore is a lovely little village, on arrival the first bar we see for a refreshing beer, ‘hey John everyone has hiking shoes on’ looks like it’s going to be a fun pack day tomorrow. The village is full of small alleys and roads, 5pm is gelato, 6pm Spritz, 7pm dinner. A walk with gelato in hand takes us to a park with stunning views of the lake/dam through a forest walk; we stumble upon Casa di Babbo Natale (house of Santa Claus); nestled in the forest in a wooden hut is Santa Claus, complete with postbox; an attraction for the kids, we see several climbing with parents to have a chat.

A breakfast fit for kings at the B&B.  It’s Saturday and the local Cafe is buzzing with diners … as we venture to the central hub of the village. It’s sunny and the mountains are look stunning today.

I have mapped out a circuit around the lake a mix of road and bush track. There is a concert tonight at the lake, already there are bars set and an inflatable soccer competition is underway; soap suds fill the pitch as the players stumble and fall.

Off we go on our circuit first through the bush the the road. There is a grumble from behind … a bit of a sook as we are climbing ‘why didn’t we go the other way around?’  My selective deafness kicks in as I keep peddling.  A few cyclists today small groups; solo roadies and a few tour cyclists. From the bottom of the lake a steady descent with spectacular views of the mountains … a postcard or a cardboard backdrop.  ‘I think we went the right way’, he says … grrrr.

The lakeside is steadily filling with people; families and couples sunbaking on the grassed areas.  The inflatable soccer competition is still going.

A picnic lunch by the lake under the trees amongst the locals … the breeze is in and out come the surf kites and sail boards.

A lovely evening at the lakeside concert followed by homemade gnocchi with ragu sauce, at the local restaurant. We are locals now we ate here yesterday … ‘are you sure it was just yesterday??’ I say to John. It seems such a long time ago.

Arriverderci Prosecco Hills … Bienvenue Dolomitis

We leave with a short climb through the vineyards; the mountains get bigger with each kilometre.

We see the devastation of vines from the path of a hailstorm on Monday night; hail stones as big as tennis balls stripped the vines and damaged cars.

A lovely ride to the picturesque town of Vittorio Veneto, very clean and green; the old town was particularly spectacular.

Now the fun begins as we have a steady climb for 9 kms, overhead the autobahn, lakes and hamlets along the way. The cloud cover is welcome as it keeps the temperature down … perfect cycling conditions today. Breathtaking scenery as we while away the kilometres, stopping for pics. A few road cyclists going the other way, enjoying the downhill.

We get to Farra D’Alpago around noon and are able to check into our accommodation … such a lovely, clean, quaint town. We are the new kids on the block as we get looks on entry at a restaurant for lunch. The waitress quickly finds someone who can speak English, however, spaghetti and penne; beer and prosecco doesn’t need much translation. It hits the spot for our hunger.

The lake is just a short walk, it’s a little windy and the kite surfing school is doing a roaring trade as well as the small sailing boat hire.

‘8km … just like from home to the Raffles!’  Did he even look and the profile …

Off on a wine tasting adventure today … a short but hilly ride through the Prosecco Hills to De Riz Winery to be met by Pamela at 10.30am.

Within 1km we were climbing a quiet road; we were joined by a few locals going for a walk, some with hiking poles … whew they must be fit … I’m quietly thanking those spin classes at the gym; meanwhile John has decided to walk. The ride had breathtaking views, John happy for every photo opportunity as he regains his breath.  We are at the winery and in the hands of Pamela who talks us through the wine production in particular Prosecco.  5 wine tastings and selections of meats and cheeses later, we are ready to venture back to town … downhill!!!

One more activity … a walk to the castle … more hills to climb but on foot … you have to mix it up.  More breathtaking views from the climb up the castle tower; which way are we going tomorrow, lots of mountains over there!!!

We learned today that ‘Spritz’ originated in Conegliano; that makes sense as there are a multitude of bars serving Spritz, so my 5pm habit stands … today it’s a Campari Spritz.

We were destined to an osteria for dinner, however it doesn’t open for an hour … next  door is a bar … Prosecco, salami, bread, prosciutto later plus more liqueurs we leave … no dinner required.

‘Are you from Australia?’ Yes, I said to the van driver who siddled up by me as I was riding through a town. ‘Very good, very good’ he said as he passed.

Today was full of pinch yourself moments. I woke at 5.30am … too excited to sleep, we are off on the Munich/Venice cycle way today, I’m like a little kid.

As we leave, the church bells peel, it’s 8am, blue sky and 18C, perfect conditions. Out into the countryside within an hour; corn, kiwi fruit, olives and vineyards is the landscape on very quiet roads and paths; the soothing sound of water from the irrigation channels and canals as we ride through little villages with the hills in the background. I started to struggle on my bike only to find I had a rear puncture, easy fix and off again.

A coffee stop at the foot of the hills, then the cycle path meanders through vineyards. This is the Prosecco Hills and a popular route as we passed many touring and road cyclists, and no wonder … the scenery is spectacular. We discuss where it rates on similar tours; it’s very high.

I’m getting accustomed to a 5pm aperol spritz; today it’s in the piazza where we meet some Austrian ladies who have just cycled on the route we are about to take; a prosecco to follow with dinner. What a lovely day on the bike.

We have a list of ‘to dos’ for tomorrow in this lovely town.

A 2am brain retrieval … the touring pedals and garmin handlebar mount are on my mountain bike at home … I’m glad that is sorted; I can move on …

Waking to distant rumblings and flashes … thankfully the rain was short lived as we ventured to a local bike shop, unfortunately they were unable to assist so off to my favourite … Decathlon. New pedals, a mount for garmin with added bonus it also fits a phone and a small pump. All assembled outside the store.

Treviso is the origin of Tiramisu so we find the award winning cafe however every cafe is selling the yummy dessert … I’m not going to try and compare.

We are at a very relaxed pace today as we discover more alleys and canals; a photographers dream … no pic is bad in this beautiful town. Spritz de limoncello … a nice accompliment with my toastie for lunch … we had better get some serious riding in tomorrow.

We are lucky to stumble on a music festival; a week of rock groups each night. Food trucks, drinks and live bands; the big draw card tonight was Gianluca Grignani, quite a hit for the locals.