New Chapter … the coast ...

Leaving the big city of Udine and heading south. Lovely flat ride through agricultural areas. The crops are varied, corn, sunflowers which have passed their due date, olives, grapes and what I’ve been thinking was potatoes are soy beans.

Palmanova is a star fort, very beautiful from the air given it’s shape. Then not far along the town of Aquileia, an ancient Roman City, possibly we should have spent some time there.

Grado, is better than expected, very touristy but not too busy today, school is back for some. I was surprised that the beach is very accessible and we take advantage of the first bit of coast we’ve seen since arriving in Europe. It’s 28°C the water is not cold, Johnny ìs eyeing off the sand castles, quietly wishing Iris and Austin was here … looks like he’ll have to get wet instead.

After our swim we ride down through the beaches 3km and 4000 umbrellas later.

So, (allora) we finish the Alpe Adria Radweg and join the EuroVelo 8 on our coastal route.

And … it get better, down to the beach to watch the sunset and back for dinner, the quiet malls have regenerated and now vibrant with alfresco dining on a balmy evening. A lovely spaghetti and squid … amazing coupled with prosecco. Oops forgot to take a pic.

Where have all the mountains gone …

Today we leave the Alpe Adria Radweg with the advice  from the lady in the tourist office in Pontebba.  It was a great move, a small climb and parallel to the river through a few little villages and forest between with glimpses of the mountains behind and the river.  The river is not what you would expect … river stones with running water in parts, the deeper it is the more vibrant the colour, however very attractive and the locals still take advantage and can be seen by the banks sunbathing.

We pass by Lake Cornino an interesting lake coupled with birdlife in particular we see vultures high in the mountain above. Also meet 2 cyclists one from Austria and one from Germany travelling together. A local also on his daily 3hr ride, happy to be retired and enjoying this wonderful route as his daily routine, and why not, such beautiful scenery. The rehabilitation centre is also interesting.

Half way is San Daniele a hilltop town a quick look and lunch.

Unfortunately the mountains are getting more distant as the day progresses and the land is flattening out. 

Udine is a big town as we wander to the centre, lovely old buildings, a castle in the centre with views of the surrounds.  The town is gearing up to their main event for the year this weekend, lots of marquees being erected throughout.

A lovely dinner nearby our hotel, the best aperol spritz.  An encounter of laughter with a diner, her partner was on ‘his phone’ while she just sat … our eyes met then we both laughed. Later we spoke, they are from Munich and she was an academic at a university, now retired.  I wish we had talked more … I just love this life of travel.

Tunnels and more tunnels …

A great downhill ride today .. did we have to pedal? Not much.

The sky clear and blue a lovely backdrop for the rugged, mountains that surround us today.  John counted 29 tunnels of varying lengths as we ride on the old railway path.  Not only are there tunnels here for bikes, there is also the main road and autobahn that have separate tunnels through the mountains.  What an engineering exercise that would have been.

We arrive in Venzone before lunch.  A medieval village that has been through a restoration when it was devastated by a series of earthquakes from May to September in 1976. Thankfully it had been classified as a National Monument in 1965, so it was deemed to be reconstructed, 8 years later Venzone was reborn.

Venzone was elected as the most beautiful village in Italy for the 2017 edition of Il Borge dei Borghi. 

We are stay on a farm stay only less that 1km from the old town, beautiful views of the mountains and the river just a walk away.

I thought I was looking through a magnifying glass when our meals arrived this evening.

There is always something to do …

The square is alive with men wearing Austrian style hats and I can’t find out what is going on … the Tourist Office is open.

It is an annual Réunion of the Alpini; the Italian Army’s specialist mountain infantry. So the population increased 200 plus as the former soldiers paraded through the small streets with a band. The proceedings continued with the Last Post, more parade and band. There is a lot of history to this little town through WWI and WWII.

A 20 minute walk up a mountain to see the little church I can see from the apartment window. The view of the village and valley is lovely, however the beautiful blue sky of yesterday is today overcast.

Who let the bikes out …

Kranjska Gora was almost asleep as we left at 8.15am, a few at bars but very empty, given that there is a big cycling event today … but it starts at 11am, maybe people are laying low.

A perfect day, the mountains are shining with no cloud cover, a lovely blue sky.

It’s not long before we cross the border into Italy and signage for the Alpe Adria Radweg, an old railway with lots of history.

A little extra today as we go off the trail to Lago di Fusine a bit of a climb, I stay away so can’t hear any grumbling for the rear as he walks … all was rewarded when we see the lower lake, pristine waters with the backdrop of the mountains … a little further on the upper lake equally idyllic.  It would have been nice to spend some time hiking around here.

Back on track, through the valley,  mountains and forest.  It’s a Saturday and I’ve never seen so many cyclists out on a bike path, unsure if there is an cycle event, or is it the perfect autumn weather bringing everyone out.  It’s a mix of groups and families today in both directions, seriously hundreds. The path is well signposted and an excellent surface … it’s no wonder there are heaps out today. It’s a very easy ride today, mainly dowhill.

We follow the valley and mountains to the tiny village of Pontebba … the bars are full of cyclists … oops maybe we could have stayed only one night. I’m sure we will find something to do tomorrow.

First day of autumn, a lovely day and close to nature.

I can’t keep my eyes off the mountains around me as we ride on the cycle paths, the sun is shining on bald mountains making them even brighter.

Firstly a short ride to Planica, I just thought it was a ski jump area, but a lot more.  A small climb for us and on the downhill several inline skaters with poles, next they were going up the hill.  We learn later that they are training and they have to go up and down 4 times.  Ahead is a series of ski jumps and also there is practise going on.  The Nordijski Centre is like a museum along with an artificial ski area inside, we watch skiers practice in the Snow Tunnel, like bit like a 2 level multi story carpark.

The village of Ratece is the start of a 7km hiking trail to reach Tromeja (Triple Border) 2 and a half hours hike … John won’t be in it.  The peak is where the Slovenian, Austrian and Italian borders meet.

A ride to the picturesque Jasna Lake, those who dare, go swimming, it’s very cold but a great picnic spot.  A small stream on the river bed entertains kids as they play with the rocks.  Heaps to do here, lots of hiking trails, swimming, a couple of restaurants it is a hive of activity.

Not to mention the population increase of road cyclists  … tomorrow is a race from Kranjska Gora to Vrsic, first to the top it’s only 13.5km. There are a lot of roadies sporting their team jerseys.

I’ve read about it … a dairy vending machine … common in Slovenian villages … I got a forest fruits yoghurt … delicious to be drunk like a milkshake. Vending choices: Milk, Cottage, Yoghurt, yoghurt pineapple, yoghurt forest fruits, three types of young cheese, sour cream, and sour milk.

8am and we are at the bakery getting a coffee and bite to eat.  Bled has woken to sunshine, the bus arrives at 8am for the day trippers all equipped with day packs as they make their way to the lake or bakery to get supplies before they head off for the day.

I can’t see the lake from here but after I insist we look and see what it looks like with sun.  There are a few rowers out training … it’s like a swimming pool with lane makers stretched across the length of the lake from the Rowing club to the turn around point. 

We head off through small villages, beautiful green fields and cute houses, oops we go the wrong way about 2km at a 12% hill, I thought something was wrong as I check the route on my phone.  A quick turn around to meet John who is walking … ‘wrong way turn back’ as I speed past … I will miss the expletives that way.  The downhill has cooled him down.

Back on track only to see that there are signs regarding the way to Mojstrana, indicating that the road is blocked.  Some road cyclists advise that it is clear, they have just come from there.  A great ride through the Radovna Valley.  We feel like midgets with the mountains on either side riding in and out of the forest.  The valley has more road and touring cyclists than cars today.  there are signs warning of dangerous winds on the road, we learn later that 3 weeks ago strong winds blew over trees in this area, today we see lots of trees that have recently been felled and cut on the side of the road.

A short sharp hill of 18% before we go downhill into Mojstrana.  It’s looking like Austria, cute houses, mountains, of course, over the mountains it IS Austria.

We are now parallel to the main road on a rail trail, no steep hills and only 13km to go. 

Kranjska Gora is a delightful ski village surrounded by mountains, everything for the adventurer. Lots of bikes and hikers.

It took about an hour to find the lock box for the apartment, running around every door that could be opened to find one of many lock boxes … all good it was found.

Bled … closed today due to the weather …

It’s still drizzling with rain as we make our way to the lake for breakfast, we’re on our bikes and ride around the lake … we have beat the morning rush of the day trippers, not many people about. Already a few early birds have made it to the island on the little boats … they are probably on a tour and have a strict schedule.

The rain hasn’t deterred us as we cycle and try to get the best vantage points for pics, passing the Olympic Rowing Centre.

A short 6km ride to the entrance of Vintgar Gorge, we hear it before we see it, as the river twists and turns over the rocks.

The gorge walk 1.6km of boardwalks and bridges criss crossing the gorge with the Radovna River raging below. It was really an amazing gorge and I think how much work was put in to make all the paths the boardwalks. Meanwhile the rain kept up. The return òf 2.7km with through forest and the little village of Blejska Dobrava. The most we’ve used our rain coats all tour.

Back in the land on the Lake, things are looking very quiet, the ‘shopping centre’ seems to be full of empty shops apart from souvenir shops, an ice cream shop with untouched buckets of ice cream looking lovely with the topping all fresh, on a hot day the bucket would be coming closest empty. The zip line tour office is closed along with a bike hire shop all with notes referring to closures due to weather conditions. Up on the hill the chairlift is stationary where the summer tobogganing takes place. Has Bled given up on summer with a bit of rain?

The most activity in the town seems to be in the Bled Ice Hall, kids have ice hockey training. We were able to enter, I remember that ice cold feeling when I used to go ice skating, as a teenager in Brisbane, how much I’d like to put on some skates and glide on the ice right now.

Rain on the horizon …

Full of adrenalin to be out on the bike after a few days sightseeing. Getting out of the city through Tivoli Gardens passing the sporting fields then parallel to the main road with clearly defined cycling paths, separate to walking paths. They are very geared up for cyclists here, then into the villages, so green with the mountains in the background … stunning.

A freshly ploughed field with a church in the middle, was it a crop of corn only weeks ago?

Only a short 30km ride, with the recent high temperatures, I thought is wise to keep the days short, however, today the temperature has plummeted to mid 20C and high humidity with the approach of some very wet couple of days.

We arrived before noon to find our room ready. The rain arrived around 2pm, a late lunch then a good excuse to have an ice cream to shelter in the Cafe.

A walk down by the river, a tree canopy filters the rain.

The old town is great for photos, lovely old houses, church steeples always make a great backdrop, the grey skies, odd puddles.

The rain bears down late afternoon with thunder and lightning, a break to go to the closest restaurant only 130m away. The buildings here don’t have eaves so it’s tricky.

A very local meal, local award winning sausage with vegetables.

Meanwhile the thunder keeps rumbling.