Give me a map or Komoot and I show you how to get there … give me an audio tour and I behave like a geriatric .,,

A great start today as we are off on a City Cycling Tour, we always like them, a bit of history, culture, meeting people and today was no exception. Our group were from USA and Belgium, and Tevz, our knowledgeable guide. It was interesting to learn how the city has transformed over the years with car parks now underground, making provision for more squares (Trg) being more pedestrian and bike friendly.

The afternoon was packed full, we went up to the Skyscraper, was once the tallest building in town, all of 13 floors, a terrace with bar at the top and a 360° view of the city, including the Ljubljana Castle. Great views of the landscape with hills/mountains surrounding in the distance.

Just when I had tomorrow’s route mapped out; Komoot wouldn’t let me cross a river at a very old wooden bridge. Google maps satellite view showed it, but Komoot wouldn’t let me map it. John suggested ask at the tourist centre. It turned out we asked the right person, it seems the bridge came to grief at the flooding early August and was completely washed away and not replaced yet … have more faith in Komoot!

Back over the 3 bridges and to the Castle. Taking the funicular railway, no queue and in minutes we are up at the Castle with an audio controller maround our necks and a map. John is having fun … ‘how do I turn up the volume?’ He’s finally sorted then we are running around like geriatrics finding the corresponding numbers, and having a laugh at how stupid we must look.

The castle was something quite unexpected, a very modern interior with remnants of the original tastefully blended in. An excellent self guided audio tour with a few extra exhibitions, also great views from the top of the castle tower as we climbed the spiral stairs.

Wow … what a great feel for the city …

After a tumultuous 2 hour train ride we arrived in Ljubljana. A 35C didn’t help the situation in a very full train. Expecting a newer model of train, we were blessed with an old rickety train with an antiquated design but it did have provision for bikes.

Crossing the border with a stop and passport check, some were marched off with the police, I learned later they were illegal immigrants possibly from Syria, something that escapes us in our world down under.

The scenery dramatically changes to hills and rocky cliffs as the train weaves along side the river, making me think it would have been a great ride.

An easy ride from the station, large wide malls and tall buildings.

The town centre is very close.  John says as we approach the river, ‘I have a really good feel about this place’.

There are people everywhere, lining the ‘3 bridges’ … a water volleyball game is being played on a platform on the river; not getting in the way of the many tourist ferries going along the Ljubljanica River.

A nice cold beer and a walk to see the activity on the river, it seems much cooler here than when we’re in Zagreb.

A walk after our dinner, the centre even more vibrant as people have filled all the bars and alfresco restaurants, the water volleyball is in full swing with lighting along the river and people 3 deep trying to see the game from every vantage point.

It’s nice to be back in Slovenia.

Not another Church, cathedral, temple, castle Waterfall!!!

Yesterday was travel day, and once here, there is nothing else to do. The bikes and most of the luggage is in Zagreb. The hotel is only 600m away, it’s a 35C day and feels every bit of it. Thankfully we are shaded by very old trees. The landscape is very unusual with huge sink-holes called Karst, the village is built around the higher ground, I would be worried I’d wake up ‘sunk’ one day. The Hotels are all rather like large houses on big blocks. Our landlord said the hotel was his hobby, as he gave us some of his homemade pear rakija, he has a job in Zagreb.

An early start, 7am at the entrance, the Cafe is open along with the luggage storage. A bite to eat, the 7am entrants are feeding through the entry and at 7.31am the 8am tickets holders are able to enter. They are very strict about entry times.

Our expectations have been met, stunning landscapes, lakes and waterfalls. it’s a lovely 29C and most of the trails are under a tree canopy.

The early morning entry means less crowds and it’s cooler. There are several options of trails, a very easy walk lots of lakes and waterfalls and plenty of pics. The water is a vivid aqua in the clear skies. Lots of water, what would it be like in Spring?

I bent down and felt the water, it was warm, oh … I’d love to go for a swim! what a happy fish I would be here, no one to catch me, the clearest water I think I have ever seen.

The sound of rushing water soon becomes white noise as it surrounds us most of the day. We chose an 8km trail which takes us to the upper and lower lakes with a ferry for part, we reach the end of route C … what already!!! We can join route H for a longer walk.

Our bus is at 4.15, after about 6hrs of walking, how far did we walk, not being a ‘step’ person I have no idea. I wasn’t game to track on Strava in fear of running out of phone battery. The temperature rose to 33C, returning we backtracked some of our steps, the crowds had definitely increased as they were just starting out.

My cynical mind wonders if there are hidden water pumps somewhere circulating the water. Surely not, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Onto the bus for a 2hr drive into Zagreb passing some lovely villages with no stops … if only I had my bike!

A great day to stay in the shadows of tall buildings. It’s 35C today, no rush a lovely relaxed breakfast under trailing creepers, very tropical feeling today.

We retrace some of the steps of the bike tour, although not planned, we are on foot today.

The tunnels nice and cool, built for WWII but never used as this city escaped any bombing. So what did these vibrant people do in 1993 … they opened it up to the first Croatian rave party.

The Lotrscak Tower is the best viewing point of Zagreb at this time as others are closed, our timing was right, as at 12 noon every day there is a cannon blast, what a bonus that we saw it.

A ride on the funicular railway … all of 2 minutes for the whole price of €0.66 … more of a novelty.

There are so many obscure museums here, we chose to go to the Museum of Hangovers, it was a choice of the Museaum of Broken Relationships. A lot of reading of people’s hangover experiences and crazy situations they got into.

It’s getting warmer and time for lunch … great thing here, you can go to a bakery, grab a roll, go and sit at a cafe, order a coffee, in our case, beer and Radler, then eat and drink … you can sit there all day and nobody will move you on. The Croatians support coffee and people watching!! So we are under a huge fixed cafe umbrella with mist sprays and fans.

The city has acquired numerous life sided sculptures over the Covid period. Apparently, they were made for people to take selfies with when it was lockdown and people couldn’t meet for coffees.

Getting all the ducks in a row …

Planning ahead as another weekend approaches.  Plitvice Lakes stay without the bikes … sad but true, it’s too difficult to take the bikes on this journey.  So we are now settled with plan C for Plitvice and moving forward to Ljubljana, Slovenia by train.

Meanwhile, its 34C, the ho(s)tel is called Swanky and that it is, very quirky, the buffet breakfast was in the Swanky Monkey Garden terrace, a beautiful tropical, open decked area full of creepers hanging all around.  Not to mention the pool up, another flight of steps and more garden areas to relax with a drink or meal from the Asian Fusion restaurant next door. 

Curiosity got the better of me, what was this place in it’s heyday? Our room has a treadle sewing machine as a table, the walls are decorated with drawings of sewing pattern pieces … my mind wanders to the days that Mum and I used to buy German Burda books and trace the patterns to make our clothes. 

Back on track … a few web browsers and I found that this was a Dry Cleaning/textile-dye factory.

After our busy day of planning, a visit to the bus station, and a little sightseeing, the pool looks inviting not overly big but refreshing all the same, a drink in the beer garden, better change out of the bathers, then back to have a meal.  Meanwhile the music changes to a bit of jazz, before we know it, the party lights are glowing as dusk approaches and all the tables around and on the other three levels are filled.  What a great day. What a great find for this ho(s)tel, John.

Life is easier on a bike …

After 4 weeks on the road, today we commuted to a town by train. Varazdin to Zagreb. Actually it was 2 trains and a bus. The conductor explained something on the first train, I nodded and signed that we had to change trains. All good … the connection went well but there seemed to be quite a delay as the locals were getting a little anxious. Second train easy roll on, not like the first which needed a lift up 3 steep steps and panniers removed. The conductor had another conversation … umm … that’s strange we are going straight to Zagreb, as I nod, as I completely understand. I’m following our tracks live on Komoot so we are ready when the station approaches. The train stops, and everyone dismounts and all follow out of the station. It looks like we’re being directed to a bus. Oh no, maintenance again. Bikes again in the bus and off to Zagreb. I remember reading not long ago that in Croatia to rely on buses more than trains …

All checked in to the hostel/hotel in the old town, booked on a city bike tour. My mind thinks of 2020, 3 April when we were to fly into Zagreb but the world came to a stand still … today we made it.

Sadly, there was an earthquake on March 2020, which has left the city even today in parts like a construction zone, many old buildings, museums, university buildings etc. have been temporarily evacuated waiting for repair. Not a reason not to visit as it is still a vibrant city with heaps to offer.

A great city bike tour we learned a lot about the city and have some great thing to see over the next few days. Did you know that Nicola Tesla was born in Croatia?

A lovely traditional meal on a balmy evening after a 33°C day.

Finding the end of the Drau cycle path

When I’m on my bike, I’m always writing my daily blog in my head.  As the day progresses things change so much, today is no exception.

The end of the cycle path now has little significance.  The Drauradweg finishes in Varazdin; the Drava bike website finishes just beyond Legrad where we ended up today, supposedly at the confluence of the Mura. Talking to a local at the site today, who informed us that the Drau River finishes at the confluence of the Danube some 200km away.  The rise in the river in 2014 moved the confluence of the Mura a little further downstream. Three weeks ago the river rose again 1m higher that 2014, he showed us on a sign. … and to top it off across the river and over a small hill is Hungary.

All a matter of interpretation for the end.  So well done us … it’s complete and I’d recommended the Drauradweg to cyclists.

The highlight of the day was lunch, thanks to our friend who gave us so much local knowledge … we asked if there was anywhere to eat in Legrad, a couple of kms away, yes there is a restaurant by the church.

We were the only diners in an alfresco area, backing onto a very leafy park, lovely music.  2 beers and yes we would like to eat.  The menu was very fancy, the chef came and introduced himself, advising that the pasta was homemade also some of the cheeses, everything sourced locally.

A complimentary appetiser, homemade ice-cream.  The dishes were presented immaculately, I had a glass of Sauvignon Blanc which was the best I’ve ever tasted.  The meals were amazing.  Michelin Star quality … I say.

A short 14km flat ride to a train station to go back to Varazdin … there is a replacement bus … for some of the way, maintenance on the track.

And not to forget the ride today through little villages, corn and lots of spent sunflower crops, how pretty it would have been some weeks ago when the sunflowers would have been at their prime … we all like green and gold!  Getting tired of the farming route, we take a route nearer to the river, along a levy on the banks Jezero Dubrava; a reservoir on the Drau, a nice alternative … we see and hear the starting gun of the Prelog Wild Triathlon 2023, swimmers in a small lake, then from our birds eye view on the levy, see the cyclists ride by after their swim, only to join them at the rear as our levy path runs out.

Well that’s 4 weeks gone and a other 2 off the bucket list.

What a colourful Saturday …

Leaving Ptuj along the Drau River, not much river in today’s ride, cute towns and farming mainly corn.

If I had a dollar for everytime I said ‘Wow’ to a colourful house or an emaculate veggie and flower garden … you know the rest….

Just don’t let me loose with a paint brush for the exterior of the house when I get home … any number of colours may come up.

We left Slovenia today and now in Croatia a very flat ride and quite uneventful on the Croatian side, however Varazdin surely made up for that.

First we are staying at a student hostel, while there is semester breaks, the rooms are let out to the public, facilities are amazing, The place is huge and modern, air-conditioned, €3 for one load of washing – washed and dried. Our bike are locked away in a secure park with 340 bike capacity.

To top it off we have stumbled into a festival “Spancifest’ a 10 day event for all ages, lots of kids things going on, buskers, several stages with bands, and food and drinks.

The old town, has been transformed into a vibrant street party. Happy faces, colourful garlands hanging across the streets a real party atmosphere … it is day 2 … how can they keep up this up for 10 days.

Not to mention this delightful historic town, of which I don’t think I’ll get the experience of moseying around it on a quite day which is a bit of a shame.

‘We’ll be there in time for breakfast’ …

Within 5 minutes we were in the country and along the Drau.

A coffee stop as we left this morning but they don’t do food … oh well, we’ll find something on the way.

A little tentative on what we are expecting in terms of flooded areas we decided to take a short ride 29km to Ptuj. We were discouraged from the girls in the tourist office to proceed on the southern route so we took the northern. The mountains have now turned into hills, wooded, and some with small vineyards and terraced gardens. We are mainly on quiet roads or good cycle paths. The little villages just roll into each other with a sign post separating them. The houses are up to the usual standard that we’ve seen, tidy, colourful and great veggie gardens. Corn still seems to be the major crop however we are in a wine growing area.

There has been no other tour cyclists today, but we did have an 8am start. After 1hr 45min we are in the region of Ptuj and see 3 touring cyclists … they are from Germany and left 2 days ago from Verezdin. Great news there is no problem with the cycle track other than gravel and there are a few options. Music to our ears.

What a lovely old town we ride into, Ptuj is the oldest town in Slovenia and its very cute.

Breakfast … John is after a toastie … we asked at a cafe and the lady suggested a restaurant ‘the best food in town’, well, just a door that we would not have thought of entering … up some stairs and into the restaurant proper with a garden. It’s around 10.45am, people are tucking into big meals and beers and wine. Well! says John, we’ll be just like the locals … calamari, chips and salad for him; roasted vegetables cheese for me with salad. Beer and wine … brunch! And also complimentary mushroom and potato soup. All for €28.

There is a thermal pool here, it was on my plan for today, a short flat ride, a great couple of hours spent, hopping from pool to pool with the spa jets, then outside on the many waterslides. What fun.

Around 4pm a lovely walk through the old town … the cafe’s have closed and it’s very quiet, a few tourists wandering around taking photos … hard not to resist as it looks so rustic and photogenic.

We see for the third time in as many days a young German family, Mum with an 18mth in front of bike; Dad with a hook for the (maybe 4yo’s bike) and an adult friend. They’re off to the camping park … yes camping as well. The older child rode 15km today, Dad can hook his bike up to his. We first saw them 2 days ago then yesterday and today. They need medals!!!

We went back to the lovy restaurant for dinner … once again, lovely.

A very relaxing day sightseeing and trying to get information to finish the Drauradweg to Varazdin.

We visited the world’s oldest grapevine 400yo ‘The Old Vine‘ and of course a little wine sampling.

Also, a Vinag Wine Cellar that has 2.1km underground full of old wooden barrels dated back to 1862, and much more.

There is a football game on tonight, lots of people in their football jumpers fill the bars this afternoon, before heading to the stadium just north of the city centre.

We cross the river and have a drink with the city towards us, on the shady side, it’s very peaceful, walkers with dogs, cyclists, joggers enjoying the shade, must be a good gelato shop nearby.

Back on the city side, police in numbers on all corners, police cars in abundance, police helicopter hovering … all because of a football game.

Back to the accommodation to change then out again for dinner, the city is back to peaceful quiet, back to its vibrant self; the football supporters have gone to the game.

A balmy evening, for alfresco dining.