All hands on deck … it’s harvest time …

PART I

Two busy ports either side of the old town, so many boat/bike tours to accommodate. The car ferry terminal is 3km away.

We decide to move on today, we stayed in the ‘centre’ and the ‘old town’ is only 200m away, a quick wander last night.

Breakfast at our front door, literally! A little bar with a ‘healthy’ breakfast (granola, yoghurt, fresh fruit) for me and ham and cheese toasted sandwich for John. That’s to get us up the 10km climb today after we have a 25min car ferry crossing to Orebic.

Lovely sitting in the very small square watching the world go by. Another older lady, obviously local is also seated … soon an Aussie couple appears for breakfast and there is immediate introductions with the lady. It appears there is a family connection. Then passersby are all introduced to the Aussies. Croatia seems to be a huge family reunion with Aussies over here.

The ferry goes hourly, we just missed the 9am.

Approached by a Sydney man, he’s with his 89yo dad. They have come to Korcula as his dad still has the family home here and relatives to catch up with … very emotional time as the home is in disrepair. A lovely chat with them before the ferry arrived.

PART II

The climb …

10km of climbing with a strong headwind in parts, traffic very courteous as they passed us, I have many stops to take in the scenery … incredible. At 7km a Wine Stall on top of a hill … a lovely lady, she checked the route on my phone … yes … that’s the best way … through the tunnel. John appears a little later … he looks like he’s been held underwater for five minutes and now gasping for breath … only to learn he has another 3km of climbing. Ugh!

A few s-bends up the hill and then it’s a lovely downhill.

PART III

The tunnel …

We have just ridden through the mountains and reach the village of Potomje, first village since the ferry. Lots of cellar door sales for red wine. Also, olive oil is huge in this part of Croatia and through the islands.

We reach the Dingac Tunnel, it’s only 400m long, however at the end it is like wonderland before us. The coastline is exquisite in both directions.

We are still quite high with a lonely road hugging the coastline. Between us and the water are grapevines on the steep slopes, then the road and more vines up the hill. The leaves are turning all shades of golden colours. Red plastic tubs are scattered along the road full of freshly picked grapes.

We weave along the road, no traffic, gobsmacked at the views before our eyes. John says ‘this would have to be the most spectacular ride’, the 10km hill has been erased from his memory!

It’s 32C and the scent of pine mixed with rosemary growing wild on the edge of the road, heavenly.

Zuljana is very quiet a lovely beach. The ‘tourist season’ has passed, lots of apartment signs for rent but most not available. We find a lovely apartment through Booking.com. A lovely swim in the clear pebbley beach. A local small marina, no tourist boats, no English speaking tourists, no castle, no cathedral, no tourist shops, just us, the locals and a scattering of others enjoying the peace and serenity.