Lake Toya to Oshamambe – Friday 31 May

It can’t rain … it’s not Tuesday!!

Lovely night stay in the Grand Toya another night would have been great to discover more of the lake – a short 56km ride today on the coast of Uchiura Bay.

Troubles with booking accommodation again so off to the tourist information office for help. The Rakuten website English version is good until your ‘city’ then all goes pear shaped and an error comes up. Nice man at tourist office phoned and confirmed our booking … a white fib … I gave them John’s mobile number as contact which is out of credit … I’ll have to visit the temple that deals with the phone gods (with respect). The man asked if we were aware how far it was, ‘yes!’

‘Do you have a map?’

I show him my Komoot app and the route.

How long have you been cycling?’

‘9 weeks and 3 to go’

Where did you start?’


A roar of laughter from him and other 2 staff member in disbelief!

(I love people’s reactions … they look so shocked)

So a very late 9:45 am start. Heading around the lake for a few kms then across to the coast. Within about 10 minutes a 2km tunnel and views of the coast.

We went into Toya for a bakery breakfast and headed along the coast … it was overcast and rain due around lunchtime. A few climbs with lovely coastal views to our left and mountains on the right. I lost count of the number of tunnels; positive – they knock off a lot of climbing, negative – lots of trucks today thundering through the tunnels.

I love the roadworks … the traffic controllers take their job very seriously, all dressed in uniform with their flags waving the traffic through and whistles to slow down. They are not leaning on a ‘slow/stop’ lollipop signs like at home.

Komoot takes us off the highway through Okishi, wonderful few kms – no traffic and hugging the rugged coast with some interesting rock formations.

After a considerable amount of climbing and tunnels, rain threatening we had an amazing downhill run into Oshmambe. A stop at a supermarket to get to lunch. Our accommodation is a little out of town … just got there and within 30 minutes the rain came down.

We are minutes from the beach but too wet to investigate. The hosts are lovely, our age and we converse with google translate, he is a collector of any and every thing; and his trade is an architect. He built the guesthouse and a great coffee shop. He has a 60yo wall telephone; also working 60yo Mitsubishi radio. A gramophone, amongst all types of memorabilia too broad to describe.

Still raining and he drives us to the local ramen restaurant only 1 minute away. He offers to pick us up although we tell him we’ll walk bac

We immediately think we are on a ‘Happy Days’ set, the restaurant has booths and music from 50/60’s – I was just missing my poodle skirt and bobby socks, just waiting for The Fonz to appear … haha.

A lovely meal and very short walk back in the rain.

I nice touch to the day complete contrast to yesterday.


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