10/10 – effort, scenery, weather, route.

I couldn’t resist and had a dip in the spa this morning … the sun was streaming in the window giving the heated bath an amazing appeal.

2 bananas and a coffee and were off to discover ‘the Noto Penninsula’.

It’s a Saturday and the customary baseball game is underway as we head out of our bush retreat towards the coast. We are happy to have very little traffic on Route 249 with little diversions to hug the coast a little more.

As soon as we pass the Nuclear Power Plant the coastal road is in our sights.

The rugged coastline with cliffs and rocky outcrops – perfect conditions.

Lovely quaint fishing villages – I just love the wooded houses with varying degrees of colour – mainly dependant on age as the dark lacquer stain begins to deteriorate. The black gloss tiled roofs are particularly attractive.

We headed inland through a valley and then turned into some serious climbing through amazing forests of pine and bamboo just the 2 of us – the odd car no trucks.

Heading towards the coast again, sheer cliffs and climbs … well worth the effort for the scenery.

Wajima in our sights – a turn inland and quickly we are here … lovely wooden houses … a tidy town award is due here.

Such a nice place – I’m looking forward to the morning markets tomorrow. Wajima is famous for lacquerware, it’s quite a tourist hub here judging by the amount of gift shops. A night display of Gojinjo-daiko – a Japanese drumming style is at the Art Museum – we attend – that keeps John awake!!

It was all about the destination … a surprise tree change … just missing the parrots and kangaroos …

What a beautiful ride today. A short self guided tour of parts of Kanazawa that we had missed yesterday … bus loads already at the castle and gardens nearby – we didn’t stop … a cycle through the old town … the tourists were gathering – it’s only about 9:30am many more people to flock through these streets today.

Back to the station for a late breakfast at a french style bakery … a nice chat to a couple from Norway and Denmark backpacking around.

Onto the bikes through suburbs … I wasn’t expecting much of the ride today … Shika is our destination and all I have heard is it is the home of a nuclear power plant very uninspiring.

Things turned out a little different. Through the suburbs we head and unexpectedly climb a few hills … an impressive bridge we cross the river at a great height, a 180° panaroma on our left is spectacular. The mountains are the backdrop, the huge river, city and rice paddies in the foreground.

A few more small hills, thinking we are near home at Caves Road, Dunsborough. It’s very sandy and scruby. We are guided near the beaches and a cycle path takes us along the beaches. The wind is not fierce today, long sandy beaches as we weave between a 4 lane highway, beach side and bush side. Some young pine plantations … I love the scent that fills the air. The beaches are still a collection of polystyrene scraps.

Another couple are headed in the opposite direction we stop and chat – Leo and Karen from Utrecht, The Nederlands … just like old friends … that’s what cycle touring is all about we chat of experiences and I hope we communicate some more on email.

Just as we pass by Chirihama the cycleway improved out of sight, lovely smooth surface, a few beach cafes, fishing villages some rocky outcrops making an interesting outlook.

We leave the coast headed to the guesthouse – Komoot is doing a great job … rice paddies a small hill then amongst trees and small roads with lovely houses on large blocks … we pass a few guesthouses then are amazed when the familiar chime comes from garmin … we are here. We are greeted by our hosts – shoes off and on with the slippers; after a couple of google translate conversations we are lead to our room … traditional Japanese straw matting – a table in the centre and 4 cushions, in the cupboard is our mattress and doona that we arrange where we want to sleep. A shared bathroom and washing machine for our use.

‘I think I’ll have a shower John and we can do the washing in the machine and dryer ¥300. OMG … you can have a shower with me it’s a real onsen … ‘

We are a bit remote from shops so our host kindly arranged to provide dinner – although she was unprepared. I felt bad … what an experience … best Japanese experience yet food to die for and a proper inside fire pit.

I have to pinch myself tonight …

The best thing about today was the coffee scroll for breakfast …

A detour to the station for breakfast was a bonus – such a lovely modern precinct with added bonuses … a french style bakery ‘set’ breakfast included yoghurt, egg or banana and a croissant, sandwich or toasted sandwich and coffee. A coffee scroll had my name on it! Too bad I will consume the lot. The coffee scroll was absolutely delicious!!

Second bonus was the dinosaur sculptures in a roundabout by the station …

‘John, I need to take some pics’ before I knew it the sculptures were moving and making sounds … passersby were also transfixed and mobile phones were busy.

There is a Dinosaur Museum here I would guess it would be a great excursion.

We rode through the suburbs as Komoot does best – lovely to see the houses and gardens – away from any busy traffic, lots of rice paddies – they still fascinate me. The snow capped mountains are on my right – always lovely to see. A few hills to climb and heading towards the coast.

We have a strong tailwind which is very welcome … towards the coast we are on a path through a young pine forest … dappled shade and feeling like we are at home in the bush … we are entertained by some military fighter jets screaming through the sky at a thundering pace. I thought tunnels were noisy.

We copped out today the expressway was closer to the coast, however we lost Komoot for a while and were on a busy road. Finally connecting with Komoot at the beach … a strong tailwind was advantageous, we were the only ones out there on a smooth cycle path … joy!  The beach was a sorry sight, dirty coloured sand and tonnes of flotsam washed up – polystyrene foam chunks, plastic bottles in all shapes and sizes littered the whole beach … quite a disgusting sight. I couldn’t bring myself to take a pic. I was glad when we left the beach … such a contrast from yesterday.

Later on we hit the road after booking into our accommodation to explore the city a few kms away … extremely impressed with the ‘state of art’ railway precinct then up to the castle grounds – the gardens are immaculate. A quick ride through the shopping area … that’s all the time we have. This place deserves a good whole day to explore.

… and you thought Japan was big cities, snow and warm toilet seats …

Heading off on route 8 then the 305 coastal route. No wind, clear blue cloudless skies a recipe for a delightful ride.

We had it all today … perfect weather 22°C … garmin recorded 30°C. 305 was a great choice not too much traffic. The most amazing coastal views; you could see forever … waterfalls – where does that water come from? Heaps of tunnels as we hug the coast.

We pass through many seaside and fishing villages with very quaint wooden houses. Many restaurant with a big crab painted on the wall.

The water colours were magnificent. I don’t think I couldn’t get bored of this coastline in these conditions … the only thing missing … my snorkels and fins.

In the afternoon we headed inland towards our accommodation – equally as beautiful – hills and rice paddies galore we follow a river. There are mountains ahead …

‘OMG John look there – is that snow on those mountains?’

Sure enough – totally unexpected view of a mountain range with snow. A google search I think it is Mount Hakusan.

We arrive at the hotel … no booking – John shows the name and explains that we booked a couple of days ago from our hotel where we stayed. He makes a call … turns out the hotel is near Osaka … wrong prefecture …

‘We do have rooms available here’

‘Yes please’

… an added bonus, there is a spa and sauna here 😀😀

Soooo pretty – Austria without the schnitzel and dumplings …

A lot of wow moments today.

Wow – it’s windy … extremely strong headwinds …

Out of town to a lovely Komoot route through a new sub division then a little bit of rice paddies, greenhouses and vegetable gardens on very backroads.

A brief peak at the lake – it’s not quite as idyllic as yesterday – white capped waves. A little jaunt through traditional housing … oh so quaint … natural springs on a few corners; one lane roads then walking only paths between houses with open drains between roads and houses … this is the real Japan. A real joy to have Komoot on board showing us all this.

The hills are getting closer we leave Komoot and choose Route 8 and are slowly climbing … a tunnel ahead 890m trucks galore and dual carriageway. A man on a recumbent is assessing he says, ‘danger’ and points towards the tunnel then points toward the hill above where he is going to avoid the tunnel.

‘We will walk!!’ There is a raised platform that is not too bad … I ride through and tell John to stay way back … I’m okay until I start to scare myself … it’s pretty scary with the noise thundering from the traffic and a little pull from the many trucks. Thank goodness I’m out … John walked.

Another Wow moment – ahead is the lake and we are in the midst of the hills … not far and another tunnel – this is much more conducive for bicycles … ‘easy peasy Japanesee’.

The hills/mountains are very close and little villages are quaint with fast flowing streams everywhere.

Another slow and steady incline through the valley – its only 14°C so I’m happy to be climbing – then down we go passed lots of streams and to our destination. We are here in good time given that the buffeting headwind has been with us all day.

Time to explore … I get a nice feeling about this town … very old wide streets with wide sidewalks … a couple of Shrines. Home to the Tsuruga Symbol Road sculptures decorate the main streets what I can gather it is Space Battleship Yamato – further google search as per link Tsuruga Symbol Road

Followed by a lovely meal.

Heaven on wheels …

We have survived Golden Week and today is hump day.  We arrived here 6 weeks ago and have another six weeks left.

Monday morning … the streets are quiet at 9am as we leave … we even manage to cycle on the road.

Early hill climb as we exit Kyoto to get us over the escarpment; more shrine and temple directional signs … a series of tunnels to knock off the top – the longest tunnel so far 1312m thankfully it was a dual carriage-way and another tunnel for oncoming traffic. However, the noise still scares the bejesus out of me.

It was an ‘Alice down the rabbit hole moment’ out of the tunnel and there was Lake Biwa … wow!!!

‘This is like Lake Konstanz (Bodensee), John!’

[A google search – Bodensee 536 sq km; Lake Biwa 670.4 sq km.]

We stop to get bearings as there is a couple of roads ahead … a car stops by and tells us we can’t go ahead as it is not for bikes. Decision made – down towards the lake we go … we had left Komoot some time ago through the hills … but now we are on course.

There is no cyclepath along the lake here … it is reserved for lakeside housing and apartments; however we see the lake and follow the main road until we cross the lake at a southern bridge.

The bridge has a steady incline and midway a viewing platform … what a magnificent lake.

The other side is a cyclepath … no stopping or starting for the next 60km – so nice to be out of the city and on a dedicated cyclepath.

We come across a car yard Auto Veloce … John just couldn’t decide on a colour.

We hugged the coast with views of the lake and hills as a backdrop on our left and hills ahead and on our right. Lovely riding,  the grassed areas are enjoyed by picnickers and recreational fishing, a few little marinas and a campground that is quite empty … it is the official last day of Golden Week, I’m sure it was buzzing here a few days ago.

We have a respite from the coast and head a little inland where again we are in awe at the landscape … kms if rice paddies in all stages … the farmers are in force ploughing and planting before we head back to the coast.

Rain is expected this evening – the threatening clouds offer interesting views of the hills.

The rain has started – dinner at a Nepalese Restaurant run by some lovely people just 100m away.

Shrines, temples, castles and kimonos

We head off on a loose route of the “hop on hop off” bus brochure – 27km

It’s a warm day and we are in civvies – lycra has been left out of today. The locals and tourists are in their Sunday best … sensibly the young girls wear bobby socks and trendy flats with their ankle length skirts and pretty blouses.

There are temples and shrines everywhere it is impossible to see them all today … and I wouldn’t want to.

Within minutes we are off the bikes and looking at the Higashi Hongan-ji Temple it’s just after 9am and not many people around. It’s very impressive … they all are though.

The Nijo-jo Castle is attracting the tourists, buses are already in the carpark. We ride on, my primary focus awaits.

We stop at Kitano-tenmangu Shrine known for the statues of cows on the long entrance … lots of pics being taken stroking the cows.

The Kinkakuji Temple is my priority – a fee of ¥400 this venue attracts a crowd – the temple is adorned with near-pure gold leaf on the 2nd and 3rd floors and sits in the middle of a pond – people are milling around to take the perfect photo at many vantage points around the pond.

‘How many photos do I really need?’, I say, but that doesn’t stop me.

That’s me done … I’m happy now … the route takes us past more temples and shrines then we head towards the Gion district … the crowds close in and we are amongst lots of kimonos clad ladies, young girls and young men. At first it is ‘look’ and then they are part of the furniture in the small tourist streets. The kimonos bring a smile … there were many of them.

Heading back south I see a shrine left to visit … Fushimi Inari Taisha. It’s not far … a lovely ride through quaint small streets then the crowd increases … we are there. I’ve seen pictures of vermilion coloured torii gates in a row which look spectacular. Well we are talking thousands of torii gates weaving up to Mt Inari.

‘Are we there yet?’ … I wish somebody understood … can’t you tell … I’m SERIOUS!

Onward and upward through the torii gate path … one hour later – there are spectacular views of Kyoto.

John says, ‘do you ever wish you hadn’t started something?’,

‘Not this one John!’ I say.

Back towards our digs … a celebration about to happen – men with chariots – we stop to watch … we are their only fan … must be something to do with Golden Week I guess.

… and nothing like an Okonomiyaki to finish off our day in Kyoto.

‘What a great morning for a ride’ says John as we leave the rather eclectic guesthouse. Having said that, it had a great common area where we chatted with 2 Japanese guys last night and met an Aussie and UK couple.

It’s 8am and we do the ‘through the quiet one car lanes thing’ in the villages – I don’t know where Komoot gets these routes from but I like them. Leaving the village we see a baseball pitch, players getting ready for the first game of the day … great memories of the T-Ball season as a coach pass my mind …

We are now on a cyclepath high on a levee following a small river, we spend the next 55kms parellel to the main road but far enough away not to hear traffic; no stop/start at traffic lights and no Lawsons, 7/11 or Family Marts. It’s just us and many many other cyclists – a lot of roadies in lycra out there today all enjoying the peaceful countryside. The hills are shades of green and yellow.

The small river is a little underwhelming with a few catchments if litter. Then we see a patch of rocks laden with turtles basking in the sun, a little further on a baby turtle is on the path, we return it to the water.

A tall netted area approaches – a baseball stadium? ‘No, I think it is a golf driving range’, says John, and sure enough a 3 tiered driving range.

The path continues and the river widens – a baseball game is underway on the riverbank – time to watch a few digs. A little further on is a soccer match.

Komoot is doing a great job today as we are directed across a long bridge away from the peaceful cyclepath – Kyoto is getting closer as the highways and byways emerge before us – now that is spaghetti! We are even directed to do loops and turns … ugh! We get through unscathed thanks to Komoot.

The last 5-10km is always a drag … just waiting to get there with the stop/start at lights – how many Lawsons stores can you count – a new one under construction, ‘They are making too much money’, I say.

We arrive at our Guesthouse – check in is 4pm – we are early so do the paperwork and return an hour later, it’s quite hot and we are thankful for a shower and washing machine for ¥100. Drying lines are on the roof.

There is trouble with storing our bikes – we’re not happy to have them in a motor bike parking at a park about 500m away … we strike a compromise and squeeze them at the back of the Guesthouse as long as we carry them through the narrow corridor … the tyres may get the carpet dirty. I did suggest our room – that didn’t go down well.

We were a little daring and went on a bus to the Gion area for dinner, we stepped back in time as we walked up a street with traditional old wooden houses, we also saw many girl/ladies dressed in traditional costume tonight in the streets.

Breakfast! egg! bread! banana! One! One! One! …

We were quickly aware we were on the wrong side of town as we headed east and over one of the many bridges. A small river/canal leading towards the skyscrapers and a flotilla of flat tourist barges docked as we crossed a small bridge.

It’s only 9am and the place is awake – a big clean up occurs from the night before – a force of people armed with tongs and plastic bags collecting rubbish left in roadside hedges and flower gardens. A pontoon stage on the side of a canal is being dismantled. As we approach Namba station the travellers are filling the paths with wheelie suitcases. Young girls dressed in lace ankle length skirts and heels. The crossroads are adorned with large billboards – I can only imagine the look upon evening when they are lit up.

We saunter on through the streets as the high rise apartments dissipate and we are in local suburbia. We see the hills ahead and are guided to a levee – the river on our right – housing on our left and hills ahead.

I like the way the river beds are utilized tennis courts and baseball, further on an array of picnic blankets, folks setting up for the day; recreational fishing along the river seems popular. Large carp kites are strung from a bridge. A flow of recreational cyclists and roadies join us.

Another sunny day, quite warm and slightly humid. It’s nice to get into the countryside – we spot grapevines undercover.

We travel alongside a river and railway to our accommodation. Checkin time is 5pm …. we arrive early and unload and explore … there is a lot of history around here … John has already seen 2 temples today (just for photos) … his limit!! We are near the historic town of Asuka Village and cycle towards it – a great cycle infastructure is in place but in Japanese – our interest has waned and choose not pursue going to the sites of the ancient ruins.

Our accommodation is ‘interesting’ lovely location in a semi rural area. Classified as a guesthouse – not sure whether it is eccentric or eclectic or he’s a hoarder. Maybe a photo is the only explanation.

Positives a nice common area so we are happy to overlook the hills with an evening beverage. The landlord was very direct with his breakfast menu as we arrived. All in the experience of travelling.

Good thing … Golden Week is almost finished and we can be more choosy where we stay.

The hare and the tortoise …

A short ride into Osaka – the hills were pretty in the north glowing in the sun – the first sunny day we’ve had for a while.

There are lots of canal/river crossings they are man-made perhaps for the water management from the hills to the sea. They have been attractively constructed with fitness tracks and gardens either side.

There were carp kites strung across some of the canals – a japanese tradition as part of Golden Week.

A perfect day on the bike and so thought the rest of the population … not only the usual everyday use bikes we saw a generous number of road bikes with riders all in their lycra kit on the road.

We are still comfortable on the paths amongst the pedestrians, however, we were embarrassed today to be beat by a jogger. We played leapfrog for many kilometres – dodging walkers and getting red ‘don’t walk’ signs at crossings. He finally got the better and disappeared.

It may be Golden Week or the weather but the joggers were everywhere as well this morning.

One township blended into another – shops and apartments. Approaching Osaka the buildings got taller and more dense. We went into the train station for information … wow people everywhere … the food court under the station was amazingly busy with people queuing for their favourite lunch spot. We, on the other hand were quite happy with a purchase at a bakery.

Having enough of the dense population we headed to our accommodation. That was an experience in itself!! We found the ‘hostel’ and were accosted by a middle eastern man who was running a halal shop adjoining the ‘apartment’ he was very confronting asking if we had paid and our room number. We were his ‘brother and sister’ when we said we like spicy food. He tried to do a deal of supplying us with a Biryani rice for our dinner. Things weren’t so sincere when we said we were okay for dinner tonight. A number of conversations with ‘his brother’ on the phone and we paid. Oh well you get that sometimes ….

We had dinner down the road at a Pakastani restaurant- John had chicken biryani.