There’s a lot if sea out there …

A bright and sunny day as we left our comfortable hotel in Toyama. Such a tidy town … the streets were adorned in flower pots on street poles … funny – I didn’t even notice them yesterday in the sopping rain.

We are minutes from the castle so a wander with the bikes through the very attractive gardens, with a backdrop of tall modern buildings.

Back towards the coast we are on a cyclepath by the river, it’s a little underwhelming although the river beds have been put to good use with what appears to be a community garden, many garden plots – a few people around … there are a lot of green thumbs in Japan.

We combine the Toyama Bay Coastal cycle path with Komoot today.

The coastal path is intermittent between seaside and fishing villages.

We turn towards a town. A shopping centre has a bakery with the most amazing strawberry cream croissant and pain au chocolat.

We are facing strong headwinds today, fishing ports are interesting to see boats of many sizes, nets drying and all things that go with high end fishing.

We head a little off the coast … rice paddies for kilometres take my attention along with the snow capped mountains ahead to my right.

John is very quiet … I’m sure he is thinking ‘under 20kph is not acceptable’.

‘Would you like to go in front for a while?’ I say …

But, but, but ….

‘No buts!’

A nice cruisey ride drafting behind John in the headwind. I think I proved a point …

More coastline then a serious of tunnels as we rounded the bay. We were fortunate that there are roadworks in this section so traffic was restricted to one lane only … at least the traffic was a little more forgiving. Amazing views from the half covered tunnels … dare I stop!

Somewhere in the day, I realised that my brakepads were a little undesirable … I was lucky to find a bike shop near our guesthouse to replace the front and back pads while we waited (they were extremely worn) … he seems like he knows his stuff … all fixed … more air in the tyres and ready to hit the hills tomorrow.

We are a 5 minute walk from the coast … we sit upon a concrete ledge with beer and wine at the ready … trying to ignore the traffic at our back and watch the sunset.

A meal has been ordered at the guesthouse … life’s good.

It always rains on a Tuesday …

A bakery before we get up a sweat … 400m away … are we becoming bakery snobs? 7 weeks ago we were happy with a coffee and pastry at Lawsons, 7/11 or Family Mart … now I’m searching ‘bakery near me’ and reading reviews before we leave our accommodation.

The weather forecast ‘rain at 9.45am’ oh dear.

It is overcast but high clouds with patches of sun … we went by the coast then hit inland for a few kms before touching the coast again. There were ports and industry – up some inclines through large pine forests and into rice paddies.

It was very still, rice paddies on both sides bordered by forests on the right and the sea on the left. I just love looking at the reflections in the paddies and lining up the rows. What else do you do when you are cycling … apart from the very nice manhole covers around … they really deserve a pic.

Undulations by the coast where the hills met the sea … great views and interesting to see the other side – we pass by serious fishing ports – men checking fish nets and women repairing them. What a tedious job and how fast they work, sitting hunch over working; knotting the yarn to repair.

We had a coffee in Hini (at Family Mart) and pastry just as the town music chimed through speakers 12 noon … such a tidy town … leaving onto the coast and a flash of lightning in the distance … the sea was looking wondrous … very still and scattered clouds … we thought we would outride the storm but a few drops …

‘When do we call … put on our rain jackets, John?’

We found a shelter and I prepped for rain … top only, meanwhile John showerproofed his backpack. The small shower increased then John relented and grabbed his rain jacket on a bridge. By the time we were over the bridge the rain was very heavy and the path was a river. We sheltered in a factory unit for a while then rode some more, then rain increased; another factory unit until it decreased significantly. Still raining – we were following a cyclepath ‘Toyama Bay Cycling Route’ a no brainer … just follow the blue signs on the wet road. A great cycle path then we went around a bend, there was a mighty bridge ahead (Shinminato Bridge) – the cyclepath lead us to the halfway support of the bridge and before us is a lift … we went up the lift then an enclosed bike/pedestrian path – with amazing distorted views … at least we were not being rained on!!

Back on land the cyclepath lead us through more rice paddy areas – they were even looking a little sodden with all the rain.

We finally headed towards Toyama through the backroads as only Komoot would do … civilisation – a big city – haven’t seen that for a few days. We extended ourselves with this stay … I insisted I wanted to stay at the Dormy Inn – the onsite spa was my attraction in a very expensive market place tonight. I’m very thankful … we turned up like drowned rats … the reception gave is towels and hot towels while we filled in the paperwork, I had just got cold.

All done …

‘okay John I’ll see you later’ … in my sodden cycling gear with fresh clean clothes and a towel, to the spa I went … shower to get clean, wash hair, then the warm tub, sauna, warm tub … bliss – I knew there was a reason to book this hotel.

We are in the centre of town … across the road a huge multi story shopping mall at the basement a large gourmet food area.

‘John – I can do takeaway tonight’

We buy an Okonomiyaki from a stall, some bakery items, wine, beer. The hotel has a microwave – perfect! The hotel also has complimentary ramen from 9.30pm … I just might indulge and another spa …

To sum it up … this is what bike touring is all about!

A 102km day … early start 7:15am snuck out from our guesthouse after 2 bananas and a coffee.

It’s still fresh … I love early starts … it’s Monday and people are starting to move in this little village … it must be bin day – people are carrying large plastic bags to deposit in central locations on the main street. This is how they do it here, no individual house rubbish collection.

The streets are narrow, a few people in cars … the odd old folk walking down the road ‘konichiwa’ gives a warning someone is behind.

We are by the coast and it’s very calm and a slight tailwind … perfect conditions.

Stopping to take pics … a small island looks great against the calm sea … a few campers … I wish!!! I too would be here if I was camping.

As the coast meanders there are coves with fishing villages then a small hill to discover another fishing village. This is our day … but far from boring … the small hills are lined with large pine plantations and rice paddies, followed by majestic views of the coast.

There are no convenience stores this is Japan at is best … on the coast road we see ‘Noto Pain’ stop!!!! A bakery … it’s 10am … technically no breakfast … Yes!! The best french almond croissant and pain au chocolat ... Am I in France??

John says, ‘can we find a bakery like that every day?’

We are killing the kilometres and see a Family Mart just after noon … I just love the sushi rolls …

Recharged and more amazing rice paddies, pine forests and coastline … we turn a corner and the bridge to Noto Island – more spectacular views as we cross and the bush and rice paddies as we go along the coastal road for about 10km before we cross a second bridge to the mainland.

Komoot directs us to our digs … a guesthouse – an old hotel in it’s early days but converted [loosely] into a guesthouse. The room is big – has everything we want, clean and just a short walk to the hub of town.

Check in at 4pm we arrive at 3pm and it’s okay we are the only guests … a public onsen 350m away.

What better way to finish a 102km day … donned with fresh clothes and towel in my backpack and ¥440. There are 2 x 42.8°C baths inside and 1 outside, a sauna and a tub 17°C. Hot tub first, sauna, cold, hot, cold the last rinse with warm water – dress in fresh clothes and hairdryer… I feel a million dollars.

A walk downtown – a small 300ml bottle of Californian White wine hits the spot back in our digs.

A nice meal … John loves his dumplings for starters and ramen and shrimp rice.

We giggle as we sit with our pants rolled up to our knees in a free foot spa in the middle of town at 8pm.

Goodnight …

An early start … down to see the morning markets … it was 7.30am and they officially open at 8am. A few people milling around and some stalls were set up – a wooden frame, table and a tarp attached with rope; umbrellas.

A mixture of fresh and dried seafood, lacquerware … John was quietly hoping for a bakery. We had a banana, orange juice and coffee (I had some yoghurt) for breakfast.

“We’ll get a top up at a convenience store”

We strolled back past the foot bath … amazing – a room with a small thermal pool to rest your feet … free of charge and closes at 10pm.

Meanwhile checking out of the guesthouse and on the road a clear fresh day with a strong headwind . Of course a small hill to start with only 11km and the Senmaida Rice Terraces

It’s 9am on a Sunday and the tourist buses are rolling in. It’s a very attractive site and a great focal point, there is an option to walk amongst the paddies which a lot of tourist are taking. There are trays if rice seedlings being carried – they must be the volunteers ready for a day’s work of planting by hand.

We push on and the beauty of the coast is somewhat in the back of my mind as we struggle with the headwinds … I can see a long day out here. As we go hillward the wind calms … weird – it’s actually nice climbing hills. This behaviour continues with some very steep climbs 10 and 11% roadsigns. The coast is very rocky and it’s lovely to see the small rock pools … I’d love to be down there. Every bend has it’s own fishing village.

We are now bemused at the small flat square areas … it turns out they are salt farms … we follow them for quite a while.

More hills and two mega climbs as we head to the northern point of the penninsula – Sanctuary Cape 54km.

The downhill was like a breath of fresh air through pine forests … oh that aroma … and a tailwind. Back to the coast and open beaches and seaside/fishing villages. Just feeling like a holiday seaside feeling when a hotel arose, traffic lights and civilisation.

Best of all was the sight of a Family Mart … it was 2.30pm we hadn’t seen a convenience store for 70km a late morning tea/lunch … that sushi and cream pastry went down well.

We ended up at a Soba noodle bar for dinner – we were the only customers … no English so Google Translate offline and a bit of charades. Japanese dim sims … prawn tempura and soba noodles. Lovely lady … shame there was a language barrier.

10/10 – effort, scenery, weather, route.

I couldn’t resist and had a dip in the spa this morning … the sun was streaming in the window giving the heated bath an amazing appeal.

2 bananas and a coffee and were off to discover ‘the Noto Penninsula’.

It’s a Saturday and the customary baseball game is underway as we head out of our bush retreat towards the coast. We are happy to have very little traffic on Route 249 with little diversions to hug the coast a little more.

As soon as we pass the Nuclear Power Plant the coastal road is in our sights.

The rugged coastline with cliffs and rocky outcrops – perfect conditions.

Lovely quaint fishing villages – I just love the wooded houses with varying degrees of colour – mainly dependant on age as the dark lacquer stain begins to deteriorate. The black gloss tiled roofs are particularly attractive.

We headed inland through a valley and then turned into some serious climbing through amazing forests of pine and bamboo just the 2 of us – the odd car no trucks.

Heading towards the coast again, sheer cliffs and climbs … well worth the effort for the scenery.

Wajima in our sights – a turn inland and quickly we are here … lovely wooden houses … a tidy town award is due here.

Such a nice place – I’m looking forward to the morning markets tomorrow. Wajima is famous for lacquerware, it’s quite a tourist hub here judging by the amount of gift shops. A night display of Gojinjo-daiko – a Japanese drumming style is at the Art Museum – we attend – that keeps John awake!!

It was all about the destination … a surprise tree change … just missing the parrots and kangaroos …

What a beautiful ride today. A short self guided tour of parts of Kanazawa that we had missed yesterday … bus loads already at the castle and gardens nearby – we didn’t stop … a cycle through the old town … the tourists were gathering – it’s only about 9:30am many more people to flock through these streets today.

Back to the station for a late breakfast at a french style bakery … a nice chat to a couple from Norway and Denmark backpacking around.

Onto the bikes through suburbs … I wasn’t expecting much of the ride today … Shika is our destination and all I have heard is it is the home of a nuclear power plant very uninspiring.

Things turned out a little different. Through the suburbs we head and unexpectedly climb a few hills … an impressive bridge we cross the river at a great height, a 180° panaroma on our left is spectacular. The mountains are the backdrop, the huge river, city and rice paddies in the foreground.

A few more small hills, thinking we are near home at Caves Road, Dunsborough. It’s very sandy and scruby. We are guided near the beaches and a cycle path takes us along the beaches. The wind is not fierce today, long sandy beaches as we weave between a 4 lane highway, beach side and bush side. Some young pine plantations … I love the scent that fills the air. The beaches are still a collection of polystyrene scraps.

Another couple are headed in the opposite direction we stop and chat – Leo and Karen from Utrecht, The Nederlands … just like old friends … that’s what cycle touring is all about we chat of experiences and I hope we communicate some more on email.

Just as we pass by Chirihama the cycleway improved out of sight, lovely smooth surface, a few beach cafes, fishing villages some rocky outcrops making an interesting outlook.

We leave the coast headed to the guesthouse – Komoot is doing a great job … rice paddies a small hill then amongst trees and small roads with lovely houses on large blocks … we pass a few guesthouses then are amazed when the familiar chime comes from garmin … we are here. We are greeted by our hosts – shoes off and on with the slippers; after a couple of google translate conversations we are lead to our room … traditional Japanese straw matting – a table in the centre and 4 cushions, in the cupboard is our mattress and doona that we arrange where we want to sleep. A shared bathroom and washing machine for our use.

‘I think I’ll have a shower John and we can do the washing in the machine and dryer ¥300. OMG … you can have a shower with me it’s a real onsen … ‘

We are a bit remote from shops so our host kindly arranged to provide dinner – although she was unprepared. I felt bad … what an experience … best Japanese experience yet food to die for and a proper inside fire pit.

I have to pinch myself tonight …

The best thing about today was the coffee scroll for breakfast …

A detour to the station for breakfast was a bonus – such a lovely modern precinct with added bonuses … a french style bakery ‘set’ breakfast included yoghurt, egg or banana and a croissant, sandwich or toasted sandwich and coffee. A coffee scroll had my name on it! Too bad I will consume the lot. The coffee scroll was absolutely delicious!!

Second bonus was the dinosaur sculptures in a roundabout by the station …

‘John, I need to take some pics’ before I knew it the sculptures were moving and making sounds … passersby were also transfixed and mobile phones were busy.

There is a Dinosaur Museum here I would guess it would be a great excursion.

We rode through the suburbs as Komoot does best – lovely to see the houses and gardens – away from any busy traffic, lots of rice paddies – they still fascinate me. The snow capped mountains are on my right – always lovely to see. A few hills to climb and heading towards the coast.

We have a strong tailwind which is very welcome … towards the coast we are on a path through a young pine forest … dappled shade and feeling like we are at home in the bush … we are entertained by some military fighter jets screaming through the sky at a thundering pace. I thought tunnels were noisy.

We copped out today the expressway was closer to the coast, however we lost Komoot for a while and were on a busy road. Finally connecting with Komoot at the beach … a strong tailwind was advantageous, we were the only ones out there on a smooth cycle path … joy!  The beach was a sorry sight, dirty coloured sand and tonnes of flotsam washed up – polystyrene foam chunks, plastic bottles in all shapes and sizes littered the whole beach … quite a disgusting sight. I couldn’t bring myself to take a pic. I was glad when we left the beach … such a contrast from yesterday.

Later on we hit the road after booking into our accommodation to explore the city a few kms away … extremely impressed with the ‘state of art’ railway precinct then up to the castle grounds – the gardens are immaculate. A quick ride through the shopping area … that’s all the time we have. This place deserves a good whole day to explore.

… and you thought Japan was big cities, snow and warm toilet seats …

Heading off on route 8 then the 305 coastal route. No wind, clear blue cloudless skies a recipe for a delightful ride.

We had it all today … perfect weather 22°C … garmin recorded 30°C. 305 was a great choice not too much traffic. The most amazing coastal views; you could see forever … waterfalls – where does that water come from? Heaps of tunnels as we hug the coast.

We pass through many seaside and fishing villages with very quaint wooden houses. Many restaurant with a big crab painted on the wall.

The water colours were magnificent. I don’t think I couldn’t get bored of this coastline in these conditions … the only thing missing … my snorkels and fins.

In the afternoon we headed inland towards our accommodation – equally as beautiful – hills and rice paddies galore we follow a river. There are mountains ahead …

‘OMG John look there – is that snow on those mountains?’

Sure enough – totally unexpected view of a mountain range with snow. A google search I think it is Mount Hakusan.

We arrive at the hotel … no booking – John shows the name and explains that we booked a couple of days ago from our hotel where we stayed. He makes a call … turns out the hotel is near Osaka … wrong prefecture …

‘We do have rooms available here’

‘Yes please’

… an added bonus, there is a spa and sauna here 😀😀

Soooo pretty – Austria without the schnitzel and dumplings …

A lot of wow moments today.

Wow – it’s windy … extremely strong headwinds …

Out of town to a lovely Komoot route through a new sub division then a little bit of rice paddies, greenhouses and vegetable gardens on very backroads.

A brief peak at the lake – it’s not quite as idyllic as yesterday – white capped waves. A little jaunt through traditional housing … oh so quaint … natural springs on a few corners; one lane roads then walking only paths between houses with open drains between roads and houses … this is the real Japan. A real joy to have Komoot on board showing us all this.

The hills are getting closer we leave Komoot and choose Route 8 and are slowly climbing … a tunnel ahead 890m trucks galore and dual carriageway. A man on a recumbent is assessing he says, ‘danger’ and points towards the tunnel then points toward the hill above where he is going to avoid the tunnel.

‘We will walk!!’ There is a raised platform that is not too bad … I ride through and tell John to stay way back … I’m okay until I start to scare myself … it’s pretty scary with the noise thundering from the traffic and a little pull from the many trucks. Thank goodness I’m out … John walked.

Another Wow moment – ahead is the lake and we are in the midst of the hills … not far and another tunnel – this is much more conducive for bicycles … ‘easy peasy Japanesee’.

The hills/mountains are very close and little villages are quaint with fast flowing streams everywhere.

Another slow and steady incline through the valley – its only 14°C so I’m happy to be climbing – then down we go passed lots of streams and to our destination. We are here in good time given that the buffeting headwind has been with us all day.

Time to explore … I get a nice feeling about this town … very old wide streets with wide sidewalks … a couple of Shrines. Home to the Tsuruga Symbol Road sculptures decorate the main streets what I can gather it is Space Battleship Yamato – further google search as per link Tsuruga Symbol Road

Followed by a lovely meal.

Heaven on wheels …

We have survived Golden Week and today is hump day.  We arrived here 6 weeks ago and have another six weeks left.

Monday morning … the streets are quiet at 9am as we leave … we even manage to cycle on the road.

Early hill climb as we exit Kyoto to get us over the escarpment; more shrine and temple directional signs … a series of tunnels to knock off the top – the longest tunnel so far 1312m thankfully it was a dual carriage-way and another tunnel for oncoming traffic. However, the noise still scares the bejesus out of me.

It was an ‘Alice down the rabbit hole moment’ out of the tunnel and there was Lake Biwa … wow!!!

‘This is like Lake Konstanz (Bodensee), John!’

[A google search – Bodensee 536 sq km; Lake Biwa 670.4 sq km.]

We stop to get bearings as there is a couple of roads ahead … a car stops by and tells us we can’t go ahead as it is not for bikes. Decision made – down towards the lake we go … we had left Komoot some time ago through the hills … but now we are on course.

There is no cyclepath along the lake here … it is reserved for lakeside housing and apartments; however we see the lake and follow the main road until we cross the lake at a southern bridge.

The bridge has a steady incline and midway a viewing platform … what a magnificent lake.

The other side is a cyclepath … no stopping or starting for the next 60km – so nice to be out of the city and on a dedicated cyclepath.

We come across a car yard Auto Veloce … John just couldn’t decide on a colour.

We hugged the coast with views of the lake and hills as a backdrop on our left and hills ahead and on our right. Lovely riding,  the grassed areas are enjoyed by picnickers and recreational fishing, a few little marinas and a campground that is quite empty … it is the official last day of Golden Week, I’m sure it was buzzing here a few days ago.

We have a respite from the coast and head a little inland where again we are in awe at the landscape … kms if rice paddies in all stages … the farmers are in force ploughing and planting before we head back to the coast.

Rain is expected this evening – the threatening clouds offer interesting views of the hills.

The rain has started – dinner at a Nepalese Restaurant run by some lovely people just 100m away.