Shrines, temples, castles and kimonos

We head off on a loose route of the “hop on hop off” bus brochure – 27km

It’s a warm day and we are in civvies – lycra has been left out of today. The locals and tourists are in their Sunday best … sensibly the young girls wear bobby socks and trendy flats with their ankle length skirts and pretty blouses.

There are temples and shrines everywhere it is impossible to see them all today … and I wouldn’t want to.

Within minutes we are off the bikes and looking at the Higashi Hongan-ji Temple it’s just after 9am and not many people around. It’s very impressive … they all are though.

The Nijo-jo Castle is attracting the tourists, buses are already in the carpark. We ride on, my primary focus awaits.

We stop at Kitano-tenmangu Shrine known for the statues of cows on the long entrance … lots of pics being taken stroking the cows.

The Kinkakuji Temple is my priority – a fee of ¥400 this venue attracts a crowd – the temple is adorned with near-pure gold leaf on the 2nd and 3rd floors and sits in the middle of a pond – people are milling around to take the perfect photo at many vantage points around the pond.

‘How many photos do I really need?’, I say, but that doesn’t stop me.

That’s me done … I’m happy now … the route takes us past more temples and shrines then we head towards the Gion district … the crowds close in and we are amongst lots of kimonos clad ladies, young girls and young men. At first it is ‘look’ and then they are part of the furniture in the small tourist streets. The kimonos bring a smile … there were many of them.

Heading back south I see a shrine left to visit … Fushimi Inari Taisha. It’s not far … a lovely ride through quaint small streets then the crowd increases … we are there. I’ve seen pictures of vermilion coloured torii gates in a row which look spectacular. Well we are talking thousands of torii gates weaving up to Mt Inari.

‘Are we there yet?’ … I wish somebody understood … can’t you tell … I’m SERIOUS!

Onward and upward through the torii gate path … one hour later – there are spectacular views of Kyoto.

John says, ‘do you ever wish you hadn’t started something?’,

‘Not this one John!’ I say.

Back towards our digs … a celebration about to happen – men with chariots – we stop to watch … we are their only fan … must be something to do with Golden Week I guess.

… and nothing like an Okonomiyaki to finish off our day in Kyoto.

‘What a great morning for a ride’ says John as we leave the rather eclectic guesthouse. Having said that, it had a great common area where we chatted with 2 Japanese guys last night and met an Aussie and UK couple.

It’s 8am and we do the ‘through the quiet one car lanes thing’ in the villages – I don’t know where Komoot gets these routes from but I like them. Leaving the village we see a baseball pitch, players getting ready for the first game of the day … great memories of the T-Ball season as a coach pass my mind …

We are now on a cyclepath high on a levee following a small river, we spend the next 55kms parellel to the main road but far enough away not to hear traffic; no stop/start at traffic lights and no Lawsons, 7/11 or Family Marts. It’s just us and many many other cyclists – a lot of roadies in lycra out there today all enjoying the peaceful countryside. The hills are shades of green and yellow.

The small river is a little underwhelming with a few catchments if litter. Then we see a patch of rocks laden with turtles basking in the sun, a little further on a baby turtle is on the path, we return it to the water.

A tall netted area approaches – a baseball stadium? ‘No, I think it is a golf driving range’, says John, and sure enough a 3 tiered driving range.

The path continues and the river widens – a baseball game is underway on the riverbank – time to watch a few digs. A little further on is a soccer match.

Komoot is doing a great job today as we are directed across a long bridge away from the peaceful cyclepath – Kyoto is getting closer as the highways and byways emerge before us – now that is spaghetti! We are even directed to do loops and turns … ugh! We get through unscathed thanks to Komoot.

The last 5-10km is always a drag … just waiting to get there with the stop/start at lights – how many Lawsons stores can you count – a new one under construction, ‘They are making too much money’, I say.

We arrive at our Guesthouse – check in is 4pm – we are early so do the paperwork and return an hour later, it’s quite hot and we are thankful for a shower and washing machine for ¥100. Drying lines are on the roof.

There is trouble with storing our bikes – we’re not happy to have them in a motor bike parking at a park about 500m away … we strike a compromise and squeeze them at the back of the Guesthouse as long as we carry them through the narrow corridor … the tyres may get the carpet dirty. I did suggest our room – that didn’t go down well.

We were a little daring and went on a bus to the Gion area for dinner, we stepped back in time as we walked up a street with traditional old wooden houses, we also saw many girl/ladies dressed in traditional costume tonight in the streets.

Breakfast! egg! bread! banana! One! One! One! …

We were quickly aware we were on the wrong side of town as we headed east and over one of the many bridges. A small river/canal leading towards the skyscrapers and a flotilla of flat tourist barges docked as we crossed a small bridge.

It’s only 9am and the place is awake – a big clean up occurs from the night before – a force of people armed with tongs and plastic bags collecting rubbish left in roadside hedges and flower gardens. A pontoon stage on the side of a canal is being dismantled. As we approach Namba station the travellers are filling the paths with wheelie suitcases. Young girls dressed in lace ankle length skirts and heels. The crossroads are adorned with large billboards – I can only imagine the look upon evening when they are lit up.

We saunter on through the streets as the high rise apartments dissipate and we are in local suburbia. We see the hills ahead and are guided to a levee – the river on our right – housing on our left and hills ahead.

I like the way the river beds are utilized tennis courts and baseball, further on an array of picnic blankets, folks setting up for the day; recreational fishing along the river seems popular. Large carp kites are strung from a bridge. A flow of recreational cyclists and roadies join us.

Another sunny day, quite warm and slightly humid. It’s nice to get into the countryside – we spot grapevines undercover.

We travel alongside a river and railway to our accommodation. Checkin time is 5pm …. we arrive early and unload and explore … there is a lot of history around here … John has already seen 2 temples today (just for photos) … his limit!! We are near the historic town of Asuka Village and cycle towards it – a great cycle infastructure is in place but in Japanese – our interest has waned and choose not pursue going to the sites of the ancient ruins.

Our accommodation is ‘interesting’ lovely location in a semi rural area. Classified as a guesthouse – not sure whether it is eccentric or eclectic or he’s a hoarder. Maybe a photo is the only explanation.

Positives a nice common area so we are happy to overlook the hills with an evening beverage. The landlord was very direct with his breakfast menu as we arrived. All in the experience of travelling.

Good thing … Golden Week is almost finished and we can be more choosy where we stay.

The hare and the tortoise …

A short ride into Osaka – the hills were pretty in the north glowing in the sun – the first sunny day we’ve had for a while.

There are lots of canal/river crossings they are man-made perhaps for the water management from the hills to the sea. They have been attractively constructed with fitness tracks and gardens either side.

There were carp kites strung across some of the canals – a japanese tradition as part of Golden Week.

A perfect day on the bike and so thought the rest of the population … not only the usual everyday use bikes we saw a generous number of road bikes with riders all in their lycra kit on the road.

We are still comfortable on the paths amongst the pedestrians, however, we were embarrassed today to be beat by a jogger. We played leapfrog for many kilometres – dodging walkers and getting red ‘don’t walk’ signs at crossings. He finally got the better and disappeared.

It may be Golden Week or the weather but the joggers were everywhere as well this morning.

One township blended into another – shops and apartments. Approaching Osaka the buildings got taller and more dense. We went into the train station for information … wow people everywhere … the food court under the station was amazingly busy with people queuing for their favourite lunch spot. We, on the other hand were quite happy with a purchase at a bakery.

Having enough of the dense population we headed to our accommodation. That was an experience in itself!! We found the ‘hostel’ and were accosted by a middle eastern man who was running a halal shop adjoining the ‘apartment’ he was very confronting asking if we had paid and our room number. We were his ‘brother and sister’ when we said we like spicy food. He tried to do a deal of supplying us with a Biryani rice for our dinner. Things weren’t so sincere when we said we were okay for dinner tonight. A number of conversations with ‘his brother’ on the phone and we paid. Oh well you get that sometimes ….

We had dinner down the road at a Pakastani restaurant- John had chicken biryani.

A golden day in Golden Week

Today marks the day of the succession of the new Japanese Emperor. It’s a very special day here in Japan.

The puddles are indicative of overnight rain. Komoot takes us on some crazy jaunts at times and this morning was no exception – we stumbled across a house with a large collection of anything ceramic.

By 9.30am we were at Akashi Park, the location of the castle. Akashi folk are wide awake as we enter the park precinct – no restrictions or charges. We are able to cycle through the grounds.

It’s a buzz with the set up of food outlets in marquees, a stage and people drying chairs. The castle is high set and we venture around the back – a jogging track is utilized by locals – we meet a man who very proudly takes us under his wing and leads us up to the castle explaining some history and best vantage points for photos.

Back down from the higher level there is a baseball game at the stadium, the stage has a lady singing and people seated and the food outlets are cooking up a storm. It looks to be quite a day here.

Back on the bikes and headed to the Akashi Bridge but first we pass by a beach cyclepath … a beach tennis competition is underway, further on recreational fishing – such a lovely holiday feeling.

We approach the bridge and there is an observation platform on level 8 … for a small price of ¥300 we enjoy views and seeing the structure.

This is the world’s longest suspension bridge.

The weather has turned and now a gentle shower as we leave the bridge.

We pass by other seaside villages and lovely views – there is a lot of activity in one town and they are setting up for a parade … men in traditional costumes preparing to carry a chariot through the streets … police everywhere with streets barricaded, we cycle on.

Our approach to Kobe is in awe, modern skyscrapers then Komoot does its ‘thing’ we are lead through Chinatown – OMG we have never seen so many people and food outlets – our bikes struggle to get through but we soldier on.

We venture to the Nunobiki Falls after our check in – a series of four waterfalls only a few kms away.

‘How about we go back to Chinatown for dinner without the bikes?’, I say,

Yes!!

I get a nice feeling about this town.

Sue: ‘There’s some castle ruins in this town – do you want to go before we leave today’

John: No! it’s a bit wet!

(That may have been the most exciting thing of the day)

Crossing the river first up before a nice hill climb. It is still drizzling; on with the raincoat. I suspect that it rained all night; the prediction was for 48ml.

The river is flowing well, we cycle up the hill through tiny streams of water that are running down the shoulder of the road. Flowing water can be heard, we catch glimpses of the valley below – all sodden from the rain, lovely views.

There are a lot of road signage asking not to litter – sadly today is the worst rubbish I’ve seen in Japan, while climbing the hill. Cans and bottle everywhere.

Today’s ride is full of river crossings and cycling along rivers and canals. Sadly again there is more rubbish to be seen in the rivers. It’s a bit of a lack lustre ride – maybe the damp weather hasn’t helped.

I thought that there would have been some nice coastal views, however, the coast is industry driven with large smoke stacks for many kilometres.

The rain finished about midday then later we got a mist – enough to keep coats on. We were amused by train spotting as we rode near train tracks – the fast trains hardly make a noise so you have to be alert.

Before arriving in Akashi we cycled through a spaghetti bowl of roads and expressways. The landscape changed rapidly from rural to a concrete jungle. We are in West Akashi, high rise hotels/apartments and buildings precinct.

I ask reception “where is ‘the bridge’?” … “very far from here” is her reply.

Our hotel window looks out at the railway station and we see the trains wizz by … exciting.

Looks like tomorrow will be a bit more sightseeing …

Update on John’s calamities:

He ran into a boom gate yesterday when the golf man lead us out of the park … He said follow me which I did… John some way behind… I couldn’t quite work out why he was lagging so far back… He went under a boom gate and hit his nose … he caught up and asked ‘Is my nose bleeding?’ I say, ‘No, why?’
‘There was a height restriction gate and I rode into it.’

Ummm 🙄

Booking.com got it wrong

A wonderful ride this morning – we meandered through back alleys of communities. Some paths were on a levee; we were able to have a birds’ eye view of the lovely gardens and healthy vegie patches; the rural areas with ploughed fields separated by irrigation canals and the river on our other side.

‘This must be Japan’s answer to Venice’, I say.

During our travels this morning we pass by and had to stop by a recycling plant … bikes were stacked in several piles and some were being loaded onto a truck – it blew our minds how many bike must have been there – a bike graveyard :-(.

Following canals for the best part of the morning and passing though the lovely town of Imbe – the hometown of Bizen Pottery – people were walking with maps, the streets were immaculately tidy – and full of galleries and we rode by oblivious of it’s fame.

‘We wouldn’t have seen this without Komoot!’ I say – John agrees.

We head inland to Kamigori near our accommodation and for lunch. We had been expecting rain today around lunchtime and thankful we weren’t far from our digs. Our guesthouse was near a Golf Country Club and no meals included – better stock up at the shops.

It just started to rain as we headed about 7km to our destination. The country club was very attractive with late flowering cherry blossoms even in the wet they look great – as we rode along we were chased by a lady in a golf cart – we weren’t to be there …

long story short – the location of our digs on booking.com was incorrect – we were a 4hr car drive away … a lot of confusion and google translate. The country club staff kindly phoned the guesthouse – we had to cancel … they arranged accommodation at a town 18km away in Ako.

On we go … despite the rain, the ride along the river and weaving through the hills was beautiful – all is good nothing that a shower, washing machine and dryer won’t fix.

We have 2 single rooms – it’s Golden Week – rooms are hard to get. We have stayed in hotels on this trip with small ‘double size’ beds smaller than what we have today but the staff wouldn’t budge … oh well it would be tough wild camping in the rain under a bridge …

Only in Japan …

Trying to get out of a love hotel … there is a money machine at the door no English… a phone in the room. Trying to pay by card – google translate working to the max but credit card won’t accept… okay ring reception … no English on phone … we find a menu in the room … a phone number for reception #9 try that… after several attempts of hang ups we finally get someone at the door and he helps us pay cash … but breakfast is included – okay ‘Western?’ yes please … sit here and it will be 30 minutes … we sit and then the power goes out as we are officially checked out. We sit in darkness – thankfully I found a window which lets some light in and we wait. It was worth the wait.

A late morning as we only need to get a 65 minute ferry and a 17km ride.

My first mission accomplished … I got a smile and conversation from the ladies at reception and complimented the breakfast ladies on their good job … one said ‘thank you’ she must have understood.

John said to me they were a bit noisy … memories of Coles Cafeteria in the old days in Brisbane with my work mates having fish and chips and cheesecake (the biggest piece of course) on payday.

We leave our luggage at the hotel and venture to Ritsurin Garden. It’s Sunday and the streets are very quiet at 10am. The garden lived up to expectation – lovely and manicured as the Japanese do best. Signs were in English … a bit of history associated here … it opened in 1857. There are plants that have been donated by various countries.

It’s a large area and a hill is the perfect backdrop … hard to believe you are in a big city.

More motorcycles than cars today boarding the ferry; of course Golden Week … the motorcycles are packed with camping gear – the ferry was indeed not the ‘fast’ one … a nice relaxing trip then onto the bikes … Komoot took us down through the houses on walkways – it’s a nice touch to do the tourist route. A very small incline and a tunnel of 1088m the longest so far with our own path and guard rail to add to feeling at least safe while we hear the roar and echo of cars in both direction. I love exiting long tunnels – we were confronted with semi rural and close hills while descending then followed the estuary.

A great Indian dinner then to the ‘love hotel’ early arrival not permitted unless you pay ¥1000 per half hour. We chose to stay in the ‘waiting room’ within minutes they let us in our room. Lovely king sized bed and spa bath … even a massage chair – I soon put that to use.

Good night …

Another mountain …

6am … searching for accommodation …

It’s the first day of ‘Golden Week’ … I’m sorry but I can’t share the love – every spare wifi minute has been seeking accommodation.

John: ‘we could stay in a Love Hotel’

Sue: ‘yeah – book it!’

John: ‘it has breakfast, spa and sauna’

(My mind wanders … a love hotel with breakfast … umm … at least it is sort of affordable)

Our day starts with very threatening clouds thankfully they were going away from us. A tottle down by the river with mountains around, then a lefty towards a big mountain – did I forget to refresh the profile on Komoot?

‘Hey, John I don’t mind these hills, just a steady grind … look at the hills around we are getting really high.’

I’m on a hill high, soaking up the surrounds and loving it! Meanwhile John is very quiet behind me … perhaps he’s suffering – we’ve had no breakfast or coffee this morning.

Nearing the top of the climbing with brilliant views of the valley and the township we had left, we go through a series of tunnels.

After an hour of climbing, the last tunnel was 800m then the landscape changed – we were through the pass and the temperature plummeted to 9°C and we enjoyed farming areas. Rice paddies were being worked, green houses and fields of onions.

A Family Mart sign … the good thing about hills … a custard pastry and a coffee scroll washed down with coffee and seats available inside.

‘I thought it was going to be a flat ride today!’, said John

We passed small neat townships then bigger cities before heading to Takamatsu.

What an impressive city, the railway station precinct is thriving with very modern buildings and hotels.

The covered arcade area also modern with international shops and eateries.

We take our time as check in is 4pm … it’s 3:35pm – it looks like a tour group is in the foyer … the receptionist looks sour and officious shouting out orders as she hands out keys. Meanwhile Miss 2nd in charge receptionist equally as sour has trouble finding our booking – all good but you have to wait until 4pm unless you want to join our Hotel Club for about $20 and your check in is 3pm at our hotels …

‘no thanks we will wait in the foyer for 30 minutes, thank you anyway’

Lovely to wake up with the hills in close view, a blue sky with a small amount of clouds, no fog … perfect. The sun gave a sparkle on the river below and iridescence to the foliage on the hills.

A few kms then onto Route 45 and 5km of switchbacks. The climb took just under 1 hour, most about 7% however I did see 11%. Just a steady grind and we were soon entering a 967m tunnel that took us through a hill. From there it was smooth sailing down the other side. We were able to enjoy the views as we wove gently towards the Iya River, from there we headed south for a few kms to see the Iya-no-Kazura Bashi – a suspension bridge made of vine.

Back on track; the Iya Valley extends along the old route 35 road for 20km. We were way high in the mountains with the river quite minuscule deep in the valley – we follow the road that weaves along the side of the mountains and are hidden by the thick forest. We get glimpses of the river as the road nears the edge. It is very silent, only the sound of birds and the trickling of water as it seeps from the ground above and finds its long way down to the river. There is the occasional small waterfall, however it would be a sight in the wet season.

We see very few cars – it is Friday and not a school/work route – very peaceful. The only movement on the bikes is applying the brakes around the corners and effortless pedaling as we gradually descend. The river is closer and opens up as we exit the valley, a little township with quaint housing.

John yawns … I follow … that was just too relaxing.

Back on route 32 and we are alert – trucks and cars to contend with and I have to concentrate on Garmin for directions as we reach our accommodation at Miyoshi, an attractive little town nestled in the hills.

Komoot was my hero today … the planned 1010m climbing today actually resulted in 640m – I guess the tunnel was not factored in. All in all a lovely day on the bike and the climb was not too bad.

Only in Japan … Accommodation

In the background, John is busy arranging accommodation that has been fantastic to now … Golden Week is something that I can’t quite grasp … I had been warned but this is ridiculous … prices are so inflated and everything is booked out …