What a Gorg’eous’ ride today …

Komoot was on the money from the beginning today … taking us away from the noisy road I’d heard all night and into the small housing communities as the kids were all riding to school … we had fun saying ‘hello’ and they responded with a ‘hello’ well – the boys anyway – most girls were a little coy.

We had an early start, quite a few puddles from the overnight rain and the mountains were covered in fog.

Within a half hour we were climbing in the valley of the mountains the fog made it quite mystic… I’d had dreams/nightmares all night of how horrendously hard the hill would be … a tunnel knocked the top off and then down we went.

Within 90 minutes we had finished all the climbing … bliss! We had the river below, mountains either side and housing communities nestled in there too.

The river opened up and deepened into the gorge. Spectacular views, I don’t think we’ve ever been so close to the mountains on either side like this. In places there were small rapids … I can only imagine what it would be like in winter.

To finish off this magical day – the accommodation is wonderful with an onsen, so I indulged in the hot pool inside, the sauna and outside pool enjoying the mountain views.

That was such a climb … OMG look here!

We were in luck today in several ways … accommodation was difficult to find for next couple of days … I was ready to abort the idea of Shikoku Island however an early visit to the tourist office and the sweet lady had us booked into a hotel for tonight.

A lovely ride once out of the city – the threat of rain was upon us for the day … very overcast and cloudy.

We are in rice country; very flat with the hills safely tucked away on my right – I’ll deal with that challenge tomorrow. A rice farmer is sloshing around in ankle deep water in his gum boots as he tends to his new crop; we stop and watch another farmer ploughing the slosh in preparation for planting – a few herrons are following the plough for a feed.

A nice pic of the rice paddies and reflection of the clouds.

‘John, that would make a great jigsaw puzzle!’

The paths today were predominantly great; wide and smooth – the kms were easily ticking over. The little towns were attractively presented with flowers and hedges along the roadside.

Away from the rice paddies and towns we were by the coast, it was not attractive – a lot of industry and ports.

Closer towards our destination a big hill – it was not possible to bypass it. 2km of 8-10% gradient – we were climbing a hill that dropped into the sea – a couple of great views then the climax as I turn the corner – ahead was the most amazing view of the township before us. It felt crazy how high we were and looking down. Ultimately the best part of the day.

12km more to go past more industry on both sides of the road – it was a paper mill – Shikokuchūō is the leading producer of paper and paper products in Japan, I’ve never seen such a tangle of large steel piping on both sides of the road. It was nice to get out of it.

We just got to our rather ‘tired’ hotel when the heavens opened with thunder and rain – we are thankful for a roof over our heads.

Meeting and greeting – common denominator – cycling!

Today we left our hilltop accommodation – John counted 270 steps plus there was the sloping paths.

The views were amazing of the islands and boat activity. We were part of that this morning.

Firstly a bakery breakfast alongside an American couple day tripping the islands.

We leave Onomichi, Honshu, a quick 5 min ferry ride then on our way cycling the Shimanami Kaidu bikeway to Imabari. Coined as one of Japan’s top cycling experiences. Admittedly it definitely attracts all cycling levels. Just follow the blue line and venture through the 6 islands in the Seto Sea.

We see roadies out for a bit of fun, day trippers and several tourers. The only climbing was to get around the forest covered hills to the level of the magnificent bridges – average 3% gradient. This is citrus country – orange and lemon groves decorate the hills – not to mention the late blooming cherry blossoms, wisteria is out and growing wild in the forest along with the rainbow of coloured azaleas.

There are some lovely beaches, Sunset Beach in Setoda looks to be very popular however today all the cafes are shut – the high season starts next week with the beginning of ‘Golden Week’ a 10 day holiday period.

It’s very overcast today however no wind – very pleasant. Views of the islands from the bridges were spectacular.

My highlight was meeting a league of nations. In particular a lady who double backed and chased us down – Kat from Melbourne who lives in London, she recognised us from my blog and knew it was Sue & John, what a lovely experience and chat.

There was also a French couple who had been cycling for 14 months what an epic journey they were on; a UK couple who we leap frogged the whole way; the couple from New Zealand who were day tripping

We are staying in the old town of Imabari – covered arcades which in their heyday would have been a hive of activity; however today in mid afternoon most shutters are down which indicate the shop no longer exists; there are lots of tailors displaying lovely printed material which I suspect are for kimonos, a few dress and shoe shops for the more mature folk otherwise quite deserted … progression of supermarkets and department stores have taken over.

The expected rain has set in as we find a closeby restaurant and enjoy pork dumplings and ramen.

Not for the feint-heart today …

It’s a Monday morning and our getaway at 7:45am is joined by many other cyclists … workers dressed in suits, ladies in stilettos, school aged kids with full tie and jacket for the boys and skirt and blouse for the girls – all going about their business for the morning. At every crossing we have so many cyclists and pedestrians to manoeuvre through … no lycra here!! The gardens/parks are plentiful and spring flowers well maintained – signage says there is a Garden Festival in early May.

On the outskirts of town is the spaghetti of highways and byways we think with our heads and not Komoot – we are heading back to Hiroshima – 3km out of the way; we get back on track.

Komoot kindly lead us away from the busy road through housing communities, such a welcome relief to what was in store.

Back on route 2 we share the road with every truck in Japan today. We swap between road and cycle path; at times the cycle path bearly allows us room with our laden bikes. Scary stuff particularly when the cycle path is facing the oncoming traffic … one wrong move and we’re under the cab of a truck.

The climbs were not too bad the trucks were worse. Finally we descended down from the hills and time to appreciate our wonderful surrounds – approaching Mihara great hills either side and then the lovely coastal town – not far for Onomichi.

3km from Onomichi … oops … juggling between road and path – John makes a rash/wrong decision and catches the curb … over he goes … we won’t go into too much detail regarding the expletives – bark off his knee, elbow and hand, one finger appears dislocated but he’s in no pain – he’ll live.

Meanwhile back on the bike we read the fine details about our accommodation … up on a hill by a temple. We can walk our bikes up so far – too steep to ride … lock them by a fence and walk another 500m by steps with our gear. The receptionist was very welcoming offering iced water. Our room overlooks the town and start of the islands of the Shimanami Kaido cycle/pedestrian path – our route for tomorrow. We are kept entertained watching the river traffic from the comfort of our room. We have a lovely Thai meal at the hotel – equally impressive views from our window seats … all is good.

A quick start along the coastal road and within an hour we were boarding a ferry to Miyajima. It is Sunday morning – a fine hazy day. Perhaps the industry we pass with white stuff billowing out of the smoke stacks contributes to the haze?Miyajima is a small island and a short 5 minute ferry ride. On first impressions we see just offshore, the giant, orange Great Torii Gate is partially submerged at high tide. It marks the entrance to the Itsukushima Shrine, which was first built in the 12th century. It is just after 9am and the tourists are out and about and leaders with their placards leading through the shrine areas. We do the obligatory pics with the Torii Gate along with many others – deer are another attraction here as they have the run of the island and congregate around the tourist precinct foraging for food.We refrain from doing the whole shrine and folklore buildings inside – I’m sure there are many treasures to be seen.The five storied pagoda is iconic and towers over the bay, no entry possible but have great views from the ground level.We venture through the gardens to the level of the ropewalk. Lovely bush settings with trees of various foliage from greens to red.We have been here for 2 hrs and it’s obvious that the visitors have increased – we turn into a street that is the first total touristy area I’ve seen in Japan – people everywhere and shops selling nick-nacks and food!!! This area is known for seafood, in particular oysters, indicative of the oyster farms that we have seen on the coastal road. It is 11am and the tourists are right into their 11’s – tempanyakis, oysters, icecreams, pork buns – you name it food is being consumed. I indulge in a tempanyaki octopus – 2 tentacles.As we leave we notice the throngs of people arriving – 2 ferry lines arriving at 15 minutes intervals.Back to the mainland and on our way to Hiroshima – we are bedded near the Peace Park – a nice open area – lots of people – we will not venture into the museum today – we saw one in Nagasaki- I’m sure it will be similar.Our dinner did not disappoint – 30m away is an Okonomiyaki restaurant – such a treat okonomiyaki is described as a savoury pancake … far from it … not only delicious but the whole experience was entertaining. Shoes off first then sit on bar stools at the long teppanyaki plate and kitchen and be entertained by the 2 young chefs as they prepare meals. It was hard to keep track of what was going on as the chefs exchanged ingredients. The end result was delicious.A warm night and walk the Peace Park by name and nature, budding photographers getting those mystic night shots, people just relaxing on the many benches watching the river reflections; meanwhile back in the shopping arcade the department stores are closing … it’s 8pm, plenty of activity coming from cafes and restaurants and the many pachinko parlors around.

45km in the hills or 72km on the coast …

Starting at 8:15am after a good breakfast and the choice was made easy by the nice man on reception,

‘Route 188 is much more scenic on the coastal road’

That was easy … settled!! … getting out of the usual shops and car yards; then into suburbia; a group of girls jogging around a sand playing field shouting what I gather a team song; boys were gathered in the next sand field, and sacks of soccer balls in waiting. It’s Saturday … sports day.

It took 13km for route 188 to deliver – Komoot took us parellel to the main road to enjoy a lovely sandy beach between pine trees.

The coast is shared with industry so we were on and off the coast for a while until we could virtually dip our toes in the water; large expanses of coastline with views of the islands closeby. Concrete breakwaters provide small marinas for local fishing boats and a platform for recreational fishing.

We swapped between the bike/pedestrian path and narrow road shoulder and enjoyed the views while the km’s ticked away on the flat roads.

We made great time and were at our accommodation and checked in by 2pm. Iwakuni has some significant sights so we were back on our bikes to discover the Kintaikyo Bridge one of the most famous wooden bridges in the world built in 1673 … wow that’s an old bridge.

Over the river via the wooden bridge, a ropeway (cablecar) – elevation of 200m leads us up Mt Shiroyama to the Iwakuni Castle built in 1608. The whole precinct is a lovely afternoon out. Lovely walking paths and gardens – the cherry blossoms are finished however there are some pink blossoms equally as attractive in bloom today. Down the mountain there are great picnic areas and water features for the littlies to paddle. The river bed is a parking lot at the moment, I would suspect that in winter it would be the full complement of the river.

The hotel is a little away from the centre of town so a buffet meal for AUD$12 satisfies the palate … so much that I shouldn’t eat for a week.

We have clean and dry clothes thanks to the coil laundry …AUD$5 … all is good!!

The rugged coastline was our office this morning …

No rush today, less than 30km to catch a ferry across to Honshu. We are leaving Kyushu today.

Breakfast was included today – I don’t mind the traditional Japanese start to the morning; yoghurt and delicious pineapple; shredded cabbage and lettuce salad, grilled fish portions, gherkin, scrambled egg – very runny, rice. Sweet bread rolls with jam/butter. I can’t do the soybean natto (mentioned in a previous post). No sign of choc eggs or hot x buns … wrong side of the globe.

We rode on Route 213 along the coast, the rugged coastline and undulations added to the spectacular views of the bays at every turn.

A little hazy today which makes the far hills silhouetted on the horizon.

The gardens are always a welcome surprise – quite a bit of wisteria around in gardens and growing wild in amongst the trees.

I lost count of the tunnels today, although short; the echo from the cars seem thunderous – I always breathe a sigh of relief when I’m out.

We arrive to the ferry port at 11am and the ferry leaves at 2:20pm – the ticketing office is a work in progress – workers laying asphalt outside – a nice new building and a sign indicating that tickets can be purchased 30 minutes before the ferry leaves. We venture to the very small town to get some lunch … there is nowhere that looks like a supermarket – this is ‘out in the sticks’ no Lawsons, 7-11 or Family Mart … serious stuff!!! We decide to go further on the road to the next village 4km away … another tunnel and voila!! A country supermarket …

By the port there are large tarps with what looks like seaweed drying,

‘that maybe the makings of my sushi tomorrow’, I say.

Back to the port, we are able to purchase tickets at 1:15pm … the workmen have finished lunch and the serenity of us alone in the office is broken by compactors; the vapours of asphalt fill the room.

Thinking we are alone on the ferry, we are suddenly inundated with people at 1:40pm – a bus must have pulled in – the small ticket office is now a hive of activity – locals with suitcases and identical large paper shopping bags … they must have been on a shopping spree. All benches are taken – standing room only … I’m not game to move.

The ferry is approaching – we get our bikes and ride to the carpark ready to board … we know the drill … not a huge ferry; however there are a couple of large trucks and cars. The mans asks us for our tickets – then we are waved on … oh I felt like the queen … our little bikes amongst the big vehicles and we go first … a very special moment. A 2hr crossing and cost is AUD$100 for us and the bikes.

We are here in Tokuyama, Honshu, the hotel 5 minutes from the ferry … and a nice room. A soba noodle restaurant next door … sounds like a plan.

We are thankful for a young couple dining who help with our selection of duck soba noodles. The old lady speaks no English and there are no pics on the menu. Our meal arrives, it is very tasty.

Sue … you’re going the wrong way …

A clear day as we leave on the coastal road – lovely views of the bay and the hills that await us.We pass the outskirts of Beppu and small fishing villages then we head inland. Not much climbing today Route 10 just weaves through the hills which are quite close at times.

‘How many shades of green are there, John?’

I’m sure some of the hills can classify as mountains as they loom above us.

We are also following a river and see trains flash by and disappear through tunnels.The short gentle climb is in the first half of the morning then a long descent … perfect.We stop at Lawsons for a nature break then I lead the way … garmin is beeping at me; I can hear John yelling in the distance … I’m going the wrong way … oops!!!

On the way we visit Usa Jingu, an ancient shrine; its status as the principal shrine of Hachiman, the Shinto protector god of Japan. The buildings are set amongst ancient forest, unfortunately there is no English signage so our appreciation is somewhat lost. However, a wander amongst the trees is relaxing.

Back on our way to our booked accommodation at Bungotakada – a small quiet village in the Usa prefecture; quite a quaint village that probably wouldn’t attract tourists – we have a peaceful stroll on our bikes of our surrounds.

You can’t stay there – it’s too far on a bike …

It’s a Wednesday kind of Sunday … we are having a relaxing day.

Our first thing is to visit the AZ hotel here and pre book for tomorrow in Usa – they don’t advertise on booking.com and accommodation is tight – we have the staff entertained as they are in disbelief that we are riding 50km tomorrow on our bikes and I’m mapping the exact location on Komoot. We explain where we have been and they still look and laugh between themselves … they are extremely helpful and we are grateful that a room is booked.

Beppu has a nice feel … not too touristy down our end of town, it’s quite quaint by Japenese standards – narrow streets with the odd local street shop selling fruit & veg. We came across a covered market under the railway line. Fruit & Veg shop, fish shops selling fresh and frozen fish – some were being cooked to sell, a butchery. A dog groomer and pet shop and some clothing shops.

We venture up a hill towards the Beppu Global Tower, what an icon – oh! there is a lift; at a small cost we go up to the viewing platform 125m high what a sight a 360° view of the city, across the bay and of the surrounding hills. We realise we are almost the same height as our hill climb to the waterfall yesterday.

Not only does Beppu have the ‘too hot for you’ boiling onsens, the town is also filled with traditional Japanese onsens located around the city where the locals enjoy the benefits of the mineral waters, these are a very cheap cost of ¥100 (AUD$1.25), prices vary to ¥1000 also the composition of the water varies; chloride, sulfur, hydrogen carbonate, there are also sand and mud specific onsens.

We had a 5 minute short walk and went to Kitahama Onsen Thermos – girls to the left; boys to the right. There were choices – strip and enjoy the steaming hot water in three different pools all of varying temperatures. But you must wash beforehand; also a mist sauna and outside pool. Lovely! Then don your bathers and go to the mixed gender pool – 3 lovely pools of different temperatures overlooking the bay and mountains. Spray jets offering a back massage. Also dry sauna to enjoy. Just us and another couple … that is all … the best value for money at ¥510.

A bit of admin done – Komoot routes done for next 2 days and accommodation sorted. The lovely lady here phones to book another AZ hotel for our arrival in Honshu in 2 days time – I love this travel!!

Only in Japan …

Pachinko parlors –

We have passed by what looks like a casino in the last few towns but never ventured inside. Today as we walking to dinner we went into a Lucky Pachinko Slot parlor. It was filled with rows upon rows of slot machines … people of all ages glued to their machine. There was a sign as we entered that you have to be older than 18. The noise was absolutely horrendous … I think standing by a plane taking off would be less noisy. I asked if I could take a pic? … no – sorry. A quick google search and my curiosity was satisfied about this new institution. More info here.

It’s not just about the ride …

A wonderful day … leaving Oita City – a nice city – very warm feeling about it. Only 16km to Beppu the heart of the onsens in Kyushu.

The ride in was a cinch … a wide cycleway along the coast, however the day’s work has not finished. We were lucky to be able to check into our hostel at 10am – dump the panniers and off to discover Beppu.

The hostel is only 3 weeks new – traditional Japanese – we have a straw matting floor and a low table. At night we lay out the bedding … lovely shower and toilet … a communal dining room with free coffee service, kitchen, microwave and refrigerator … Perfect!

A trip to the information office at the station. We are limited but determined to find at least 1 of the 4 waterfalls in the area. We have quite a climb and are rewarded with a lovely view of the city and the waterfall which is magical – I feel like fairies and gnomes should appear. Reminders of a favorite movie, Disney’s The Gnome-Mobile – showing my age here!

Next is the famous onsens … we have another climb – there are 7 separate onsens – we were advised to visit 2 of the most popular – we take the advice … as we approach the area we see puffs of steam emerging from drain holes in the streets. We pay to see the Umi – such a lovely setting … a foot bath, a red pool and a blue pool – they are far too hot for use – the gardens are manicured as well as the Japanese do … perfect!

We go down to Kamado Onsen it is very busy and closes in a half hour there is a bus tour in and very congested, not quite the serene atmosphere of Umi – a man with a microphone wooing the crowds to see the chemical reaction of smoke on the vapours of the sulfur fumes at the different ponds … all very entertaining but not half as good as the previous experience we have just had.

We leave thinking we were lucky to have seen Umi and its tranquillity … and also visited Unzen a couple weeks ago where it was free and in its natural environment.

Closer to the town there are many onsens that are for bathing – I’m hoping to discover at least one tomorrow.

Back at the hostel … in the communal area we meet some Koreans and Dutch; the receptionist is only 20 and has an interest in English and Korean languages – so we talk – such a sweet young lady. Furthermore, on our way in today we met some Dutch cyclists … life is wonderful.

Only in Japan …

Pedestrian crossings –

In the major cities we have noticed that not only does the little green man light shine to cross the road, all manner of sounds can happen. There are voices talking to the pedestrian; music plays or a bird sings … earlier on – John thought a bird was following him until he ‘got it!’