It wasn’t meant to be …

It rained steadily all night, quite heavy at times. We woke with a weather forecast of no rain … yay.

Agonizing over whether or not to go to Yakushima, we had a 7am decision to go. Booked 2 nights accommodation – ferry timetable in hand and off to the port for 8.30am ferry. That all sounds good doesn’t it!

Ferry is out of service for 2 weeks as of yesterday- fast ferry doesn’t take bicycles – slow ferry leaves at 6pm and arrives at 7am. … it wasn’t meant to be … cancelled the accommodation.

Leaving Kagoshima the azalea hedges along the road are nice and bright against the overcast skies today.

We are now headed east to Miyakonojo. We hug the coast literally amongst heavy traffic and trucks. Thankfully there is a cycle/pedestrian path for most of the way.

Although it is very overcast and misty the views of the coast are great.

We head through Kirishima then into the hills – a good continuous climb through hills then a plateau – we passed logged forests then stock piles of pine logs before a lovely descent to Miyakonojo.

I just love the yukatas (komono but a bit different) in the hotels!

A quick 15 minute ferry to Sakurajima an active volcano. A ferry leaves every 15 mins 24hr/day taking cars, buses and walk ons. No sooner had we boarded, we were moving and getting off. The volcano was spewing plumes of ash as we boarded the ferry.

There is a road that circles the volcano only 36km that sounds good to us.

Along the way there are viewing platforms and trails – the views of Kagoshima and the volcano are great.

Everything is covered in a fine grey powder; this is ash from the volcano – something the locals have to live with. I have a slight gritty feeling in my mouth and skin. We see locals constantly sweeping the ash from the paths by their houses – I wonder what they do with it all?

Back by the port we soak our feet in the natural hot spring water of the “Sakurajima” Yogan Nagisa Park Footbath a treat for visitors.

A steady rain has started and we head off to have a specialty meal from the area. Shubu shubu – we got it all wrong – it looked nothing like we had imagined it to look on the menu picture all raw meats and the waiter mentioned sashimi, so we ordered another dish which ended up as chicken and vegetable soup … very nice, still hungry when we left and got Tiramasu from a Family Mart next to the hotel and had in our room. Further research there was a pot of boiling water with which to cook the meat in … shame there was a language barrier.

The rain is forecast to continue throughout the night.

… another puncture?

A lovely day on the bike – clear skies and no haze. We leave the west coast and head east today, quite a different landscape through the hills on route 3 with no diversions. Passing through villages, my brain is working overtime thinking of the varieties of spring flowers as we pass gardens; also grown by my Dad in his day. Voilets growing wild in cracks and crevices on the pedestrian/cycle path – all a part of being a cyclist.

The hills were very tame as we weave through; the colours are stunning.

Before we know it we are descending and Kagoshima is in our sights. Oops John has a puncture … easily fixed.

As we are riding through the city we notice the abundance of parks and gardens; something to discover tomorrow – we have booked another night here – the forecast is for a lot of rain on Tuesday/Wednesday so we are mindful of where to next.

A relatively short ride today, 63km and not much climbing.

A great day for gardening

Our first hotel breakfast – Japanese style – a range of cold meats, cold veggies, miso soup, sardines and a soy bean mix
‘Natto’ that I’m sure is very good for you but I wasn’t a fan.

https://matcha-jp.com/en/3158

There was some bread with jams and yoghurt that I enjoyed.

Easy access out of Minamata and through some small local villages. A beautiful day on the bike – temperature around 16°C when we head off. A heavy hazy again which lifted at 11am. We diverted on local roads to escape the busy main road and shops that go main roads.

It’s a Sunday and the locals in the villages are busy in the garden and tending to their farms both big and small. Large open flat lots surrounded by canals filled with water and divided with mud low walls. Some are dry and others wet or filled with crops.

Meanwhile amongst houses … the sound of brush cutters can be heard. I’m taken back by the lovely spring flowers in front gardens – there must be some green thumbs around. We duck and dive off the main road which sometimes leads us ‘up the garden path’ literally and also up unwarranted climbs. My bad – I chose this route.

Although we are by the coast, we see very little as the road is too far away. Eventually we go closer to the coast and head towards the Izumi Crane ObservationObservation Centre unfortunately it is closed – we have just missed the migratory season by a few weeks there are a few cranes around but nothing like 10,000 between November and March. For more information http://www.izumi-navi.jp/en/feature/tsuru

The last straw as we walked up a 13% hill – (although we did come across a Japanese badger) – the direct route (3) all the way to Satsumasendai despite the traffic and one particular scary tunnel.

Where the hills meet the sea …

Getting out of the city was easy with the help of Komoot and Garmin – the first 20km was on the main road which never ended – hardware, garden outlets and all the other large shops that go with the outskirts of big towns.

We are now in a rural area and lots of greenhouses, rice paddies and grains plus green leafy vegetables. We are thankful that Komoot has lead us to quiet streets where we see the locals out and about on the land; ploughing, spraying and in their tractors as farmers do. The suburban houses are pretty with spring flowers in front gardens and the topiary trees, lots of tulips and annuals in pots.

It’s such a lovely spring day around 21°C, a few whipper snippers cleaning up long grass. The further south we go, the closer the hills become and envelope us as they reach the coastline.

Before we know we have the sea on our right. It’s very hazy today and visibly is limited across the bay towards Shimoshima Island, however the view is still spectacular. The road in parts leaves the coast so we are climbing and snaking around the hills. …and of course there was an abundance of Sakura (cherry blossoms) in the hills that I had to capture.

Every turn offers more specular views too much to capture in photos. There are lovely sandy beaches; black muddy inlets with small marinas for fishing boats; rocky outcrops, the water is still and very clear. The hills were very colourful – different shades of green; orange trees with ripe fruit and terraced crops.

It was a bit difficult trying to identify a restaurant tonight – we saw a sign ‘OPEN’ by a door and slid it – a traditional no chair affair – they made room for us as we sat cushions – we look like a couple of old geezers – can’t do the whole cross legged or kneeling posture … haha – nice yakitori and noodles.

We reach Minamata after 95km.

🎶 Ferry ‘cross the Mersey Ariake Sea 🎶

Riding toward the port on a small local road only the sound of the trickling spring water from the small canal bordering the road and houses … serenity! A lady watering greets us with ‘ohayōgozaimasu’ sadly I haven’t mastered it yet so I reply with ‘good morning’.

The port is very quiet we take the slow ferry 1hr – the fast ferry is 30mins – at the ticket counter – cash only – we are ushered with our bikes outside to the front of a carpark along with cars and a truck to return in half an hour to board.

Our bikes are on the bottom deck (there are 2) and we enjoy the journey in comfort with choices of airplane style seating or lounges.

Off the ferry and heading towards Kumamoto it’s very flat and full of hot houses – John is as happy as a pig in mud when he sees a patisserie – a quick bite – that’s lunch.

We go to the train station to the tourist office – wow … a whole shopping area and heaps of food outlets AND the toilets were amazing – we will talk toilets another time.

Too early to check in to the hotel so we visit the Kumomoto castle. As we enter the castle precinct we hear yelling coming from a stadium … further investigation needed … we park the bikes – all full loaded (they are safe here in Japan) and venture to the stadium … we sit in the grandstand and see the last exciting 15 minutes of a baseball game – an amazing experience – I hope we see more games.

Now to the castle, sadly it was damaged by an earthquake in 2016 and is in the process of being restored, there is no access, however, the grounds are open … families picnicking and lots of sakura (cherry blossoms) I can’t help myself to take pics.

A few drops of rain just as we get to the hotel – only a short shower then off to see some parks.

Our accommodation is a ‘small double’ umm … we will see how that goes tonight 🤣🤣

By popular request we went to a small cafe/restaurant and had okonomiyaki. The owner explained in reasonably good English that if we were to eat there he specializes in okonomiyaki- we said that is what we want. He said it’s pizza without the cheese! There in front of us he prepared and cooked the dish on his teppanyaki plate. It was delicious.

It’s Friday night and you have to love the covered arcades – within 2 minutes walk from our hotel – the place is buzzing – people everywhere all the shops are open – no partying for us – a long day instore tomorrow.

We’ve been to hell and back …

We mastered the bus system today … enter from back door take a ticket and exit from front door and pay at the end of the ride.

A 21km bus ride up to the Geothermal area on top of the mountain. We are in volcanic country. There was not much if no shoulder on the road for a bike … I first felt guilty but not now, a 787m climb which I tracked on my garmin. Unzen Jigoku or ‘hell’ – it was great to walk around seeing the boiling water and steam spewing out of the ground. A bit smelly of hydrogen sulfide. The area is full of walking/hiking tracks.

Outside the tourist centre a public foot bath … too hot for me.

The hotels in the area have thermal spa baths ‘onsens’ and there are 4 traditional public spa baths of which we indulged in one. Men to the left and women to the right. Strip and enter the bath area – wash first, sit on a small stool; basin and shower head to rinse. Enter the bath slowly – the water was 43°C believe it or not I was completely immersed to my neck in the cloudy water and loving it. That was total relaxation. Meanwhile John is having a similar experience on the other side of the wall with the men. I shared the bath with 3 other ladies. This experience cost us ¥200 (under $AUD3) I can’t wait for the next onsen.

Back down to town – a reconnaissance of the port from which the ferries leave.

The town’s natural spring water is seen through the housing community, open drains along the roads contain carp which lends the name of Town of the Swimming Carp.

Another icon is the Shimabara Castle proudly seated on a hill with views of the penninsula; lovely gardens and monuments.

On the move again – Komoot and Garmin at the ready – easy exit through the city – we were taken on some side roads that confused us. A good 10km climb to start then it would be smooth sailing.

The climb gave spectacular views then a great decent, we enjoyed it so much we missed a turn – never mind a slight detour then back on route.

Unfortunately we are travelling on a busy road skirting between the road and path – the path is not too reliable.

The road travels between light industry and small villages all melding into one – grain crops and vegetables are prevalent around the villages. Lots of school children on their bikes – we say hello and they respond likewise.

We look for somewhere to eat among the light industrial area and find a restaurant – we are welcomed in and choose from pictures on the menu – John had chicken katsu and I had spaghetti bolognese – not what I’d hope for but still very tasty.

We joined the coastline and had clear views across the bay to our left. The tide is out which exposes long black beaches a few small boats on their side waiting for the high tide. Poles with nets exposed – I guess they are fish traps.

On our right the mountains loom above – we are in the Unzen Volcanic Area Global Geopark. (to be discovered tomorrow)

Between us and the mountains, agriculture is at its best – rows upon rows of plastic covered hot houses as far as you could see. We pass by a small field of carrots being harvested … a problem with the harvester – we eagerly watch as the mechanic works on the plough-like rig which lifts the soil and loosens the mature carrots for picking.

A local restaurant tonight – an elderly couple dining and us. The menu is in Japanese we pick from the model plates in the shop window. Rice and finely shredded cabbage is a staple; John has prawns and beef pattie; I have fish with a bonus of miso soup, yum!

We’ve decided to stay an extra night and go up to the mountains tomorrow (on a bus!!!! – John doesn’t want to do a continous 20km climb)

Note to self and others – check your expiry date on cards well before you leave home …

After a bit of a worrying week coordinating our new Citibank cards – they were received this morning – kudos to Japan Post and Citibank helping with activation and our son for sending them on. We can now relax a little.

Our accommodation is at the northern end of town about 10km from the harbour … we found a huge department store (Seiyu) 300m away – I just love looking at all those things – ready prepackaged meals wrapped in plastic moulded containers – ready to eat or heated with microwave instructions. The store boulangerie was something else – supersized croissants and pastries coming hot out of the oven – I couldn’t resist … breakfast!!

John carries around a plastic bag to carry purchases, however the staff are only too willing to offer more plastic bags to us. We are somewhat proud that at home; Australia is contributing in cutting down on plastics with the ‘war on waste’ crusade.

Back down towards the harbour today what appeared to be a coal fired paddle steamer sailing boat.

Chinatown was very quaint it would be a sight to see at nighttime as the neon lights would be spectacular.

Back towards the hotel, we stumbled upon a local suburban hub with local street markets; way off the tourist radar – a ramen restaurant was good for lunch – John still asks for a fork – I don’t think I’ll win that battle.

Tomorrow back on our way …

Eat with the locals … like a local.

A stay at a Love Hotel again – lucky to cancel the second night. However, I have to be fair, the lady was so accommodating – she spent more than 30 mins on google translate to help us collect a document to arrive at the hotel (against policy) even took us to the PO at 7pm on a Sunday to talk/interpret to PO staff so we could collect from their office when it arrives. 2 more days at a different hotel, waiting for document. Hotel was not as elaborate as first love hotel … thank goodness! Comfortable bed and room.

The morning was spent at Peace Park and the Atomic Bomb Museum. A sombre reminder of days gone by; well presented … a must see!

Peace Park was a lovely garden environment with many monuments.

A gentleman was at a shrine and gave us a card …he was a lucky 14 year old when the bomb dropped. His story can be reached by a google search of his name.

A quick ride to the harbour – a small cruise ship is docked. There are gardens and a few kites flying – great conditions for kites. The wind is very chilly and 11°C – chill factor …???

Back up the long road to the other side of town to our new accommodation. A lovely hotel – it looks too regal for the special price offered on booking.com we book another night … yay!

Searching for a restaurant – we go to a cafe that is not doing meals – the lady takes us across a couple of roads to a small restaurant/bar. Our moment has arisen – no chairs just tables and cushions – off with the shoes and sitting on the cushions. Google translate at the ready for us and the staff … yakitori, rice, beer and complimentary green tea. What a hoot when we leave and tell them we are on bicycles.