Good one 99

A quick walk to bus station to see our options … many buses but only one company open … 11am bus to Seville.

A flyby look at the food market … the surrounds are full of cafes … it’s 9.30am and the locals are in full force drinking, eating, shopping.  A churros cafe doing a roaring trade as people dip the tasty pastry in their hot chocolate or coffee.  Beer is also on the table for some.  The markets is predominantly seafood and lesser fruit and vegetables. Outside with the cafe’s the clothing stalls all enjoying the shade of the Plaza while the sun is low. The markets and stalls will all disappear around noon.

The bus is only 9€ and 1hr 15mins, nice country, corn crops, sunflowers, grain.  Lots of sunflowers in full bloom today adding contrast to the stark fields of baled hay.

Here we are in Seville, quick bike assembly and off through the streets to the hotel at 1pm, we are lucky the room is ready. Smiles on our dials … The entrance to the hotel has devil’s ivy draped over an arch at the entry to the rooms, we are on the ground floor potted plants everywhere and draping from the balconies above … seriously this is special. Can I stay for a week to ride out the heatwave? (Mind the pun)

0ut the front of the hotel is a large number of tapas bars under shady trees. Tapas for lunch … we have learned that just one dish each, small but sufficient, croquettes and spring rolls both delicious.

As it turns out, the park in front of the hotel is Alameda de Hercules was the oldest public park in Spain and Europe. Once a down-and-out district that was best avoided, La Alameda has now turned into one of Seville’s hippest and trendiest barrios. Situated around the long thin Plaza Alameda de Hércules, lying to the north of the center, it’s now home to funky art gallery cafés, chic bars, restaurants, and vintage boutiques.

It is very hot, a siesta and a walk around, the old town is amazingly compact we get to the Bullfighting Ring just as it is closing … goodness it’s 6.50pm. We book a city cycling tour for tomorrow morning. Pass through the shopping mall and duck into a few shops just to get out of the heat, despite we are shaded by buildings, it’s still 38C.

We leave the air conditioned room and head out to eat at 9.30pm, whew a very warm breeze still very hot. Tables are filling up under the trees near the many cafes, John had a giggle, ‘even those young guys are fanning themselves’ as I look over and see some guys enjoying a drink waving the menus to keep cool.

It’s sort of too hot to eat so we settle for tapas … John doesn’t want to walk around tonight early night … it’s 10.45pm the kids are still playing in the local playground.

John has certainly pick a great hotel for our next 2 nights before we head coastal again.

“It looks like we are in the country” she said.  “Lost in the country’ he said. That said … we wouldn’t have seen the old viaduct and the fish farm (which I think it was)

This is the way to start the day, 9.30am breakfast in the town square people watching. No time constraints, we left Cadiz around 10.30am a different cruise ship has come in overnight. We pass through the new town which is more modern, taller buildings. 

Tipuana trees are in full bloom, yellow blossom everywhere, memories of the years of joy the kids and their friends had with the tipuana tree we once had in the first build of our house.  It was always blooming for Christmas, today we are in the northern hemisphere so the blooming is June.

No bridges for us we are on the reclaimed land that just accommodates a road, train and cycle path although unsealed it’s a great soft ride.  We ride around the peninsula through the Parc Natura; a breeding ground for birds, it’s a wetland and a maze of waterways. We can see the new bridge over to Cadiz for some time in our sights it’s 3km long and quite  spectacular.

I am a little tentative with today’s route I have mapped, I tried to plagiarise a bike tour companies from Cadiz to Seville. So instead of the direct way on busy roads I’m going by what I guess maybe their route.

I half nailed it, they definitely wouldn’t be on a major road, we go on the side of the highway … all’s good for a few kms … we are amongst rivers and small tributaries with a sign no entry, we proceed and try to make sense of it all, can we get over the river? … this is clearly a fish farm, large fish can been seen in the pools and water filters from the river. 

‘John,we will have to go back to the railway line and go this other way on the quiet road.’  Back on track we are on a quiet country road headed in the right direction.  Sunflowers, wind farms, solar farms and market gardens are all part of the landscape on flat roads and a tailwind.  It’s hot I saw 35°C on my garmin, we have many water stops and only 3kms to go it’s 3.30pm.  We have some uphill while we walkour bikes. Now the oasis; the old town on the flat and looking very grand, at least in my eyes, I need a shower and food, a beer as well.   All the above completed and to add to it 500g of cherries.  The streets are a little deserted, shops closed apart from the small supermarkets and bars.  And why not they are sensible, they will open later when it cools down … this is siesta time … for us as well … 20 minutes power nap.  News is that we are coming to another heat wave in the next few days … up to 38C tomorrow and on the road will be much warmer. We have made an executive decision … although I was looking forward to the ride to Seville, we will bus there tomorrow – the heatwave is expected to hang around for a week, Seville is expected to reach 44°C on Sunday.

We had a lovely meal on such a balmy night at about 9.30pm … the town has come alive again. Walking back to the hotel, little kids are playing in a playground … it’s 10.55pm.

We realised that we missed the Torro de Plaza (Bullfighting Ring) yesterday … it was only 500m from the hotel. Never mind, however there is significant to this bullring, it the first of modern bullfights in Spain. 

We are on the milk run again this morning although on a different route.  The little villages are more frequent, oleanders are in full bloom, various shades of pink and white, growing wild along the road and bordering village streets.  The roads are narrower … we are off the main highway.  This is the place for the outdoor seeker, we see hikers on paths, road bikers and mountain bikers on tracks all out enjoying the clear morning as we weave up and down through the hills.

First fields of sunflowers today amongst olive groves, asparagus, grass being baled … it’s all happening in country Spain. I’m so excited …I just love sunflowers … fields and fields covering the hills … some out but most a beautiful dark green waiting to bloom.  ¹

A solar farm hill … someone’s cashed in their sunflower crops or olives for solar energy, thinking outside the box … lots of sun here. Over every hill brings another surprise, a village, a lake, crops all so beautiful … and we’re not sweating it out.

The country roads and landscape soon give way to the coast and more densely populated area.  We are in Cadiz, originally an island but now part of the mainland via narrow stretch of land and some bridges.

The old town is walled and we are staying right above a busy street full of restaurants.   The morning markets are just closing, however there are little stalls on the boundary of the market precinct that are serving a variety of tapas and drinks.  Each stall has a number I saw 115.  The place is humming with people eating and drinking under the patio umbrellas. This must be the place for lunch.

A very quaint town with little streets, lots of plazas, churches, there are two cruise ships at the port, lots of tourist shops.  A short walk to the beach it’s very busy, there is a castle in the sea a promenade leads to the castle it’s closed though but its a nice stroll to see the beaches.

Half way day … into our 6th week …

Very early start to get the 9am bus. We have nailed down wrapping the bikes now.  We are on the milk run stopping at lots of beachside towns picking up passengers 3hrs to do 100km.  From Malaga we are the only passengers so our bikes are quite comfortable … hoping it stays that way. It appears most passengers are daytrippers.

At one stop a man with an electric bikes was refused … he quickly locked his bike across the road and boarded, not sure if it was because the bike wasn’t wrapped or 2 bikes were the limit.  The bus driver appears grumpy.

To matters worse, we were 200m from the last pick up in Marbella and the driver side swiped a car on a roundabout.  The usual exchange of details and off again. 

The beachside towns are amazing, fully of apartments and hotels … today no wind and the glimpses of the sea is serene.  We leave the coast and head to the mountains for the last 50km.  We are thankful we are on the bus … a very steep climb.

Weaving around the mountains catching views of the coast, way below and little towns nestled between mountains. The mountains are a mixture of forest and rocky, then out of the blue we see pastures of different colours like patchwork. John noticed one cyclist. We contemplate if we were to consider riding here, John said we would have been crying.

Time to hit the town running, the hills haven’t gone away, the old town and new town are separated by stone bridges, we head for the smaller of the two which spans across a deep 120m gorge. Up river not far is the ‘new bridge’ also stone and very old despite it being coined as the ‘new’ bridge. The old town is spectacular as you wander the small cobbled streets but not before many steps and walking on the castle wall to get amazing views of the valley below and the gorge.

It’s quite hot, it’s the heat of the day, as we trudge up and down stone steps, there are many walking trails and lookouts offering different vantage points.

A great place to do trekking. We consider the route to cycle back to the coast … no way … we will bus it tomorrow then set ourselves up for a few days cycling.

John has finally worked out how the key card works on our door … time to move on .. 😉

Not bad for a Sunday … up for an early start to go to the castle (Castillo de Gibralfaro) and the Alcazaba. The streets were not too busy this morning as we walked through the Old Town for breakfast … not as much to choose from today, the markets are closed and things are looking a little quiet at 8.45am. We make our way to the start of our climb to the castle. A lot of museums and entries are free on Sunday … we soon learn that is from 2pm. The top is a good 20 minutes steep walk, we pay our money and adventure around the castle wall, still intact and the internal grounds. There is an audio available however we don’t have mobile coverage just wifi which isn’t provided on this site. Note to Self!! So while others are stopped listening to the audio … we just walk on as though we know it all. Now when the grandies build block castles we will show them to make room for the internal grounds.

It’s not all about the castle either, we are very high up and as expected the view is amazing 360° views of the port, beaches where we rode yesterday, the city and the mountains. The cathedral looks minuscule.

Back down the hill towards the Alcazaba, again audio tour if we had mobile coverage, however our complete history lesson in Granada paid off as we see similar shapes, columns, ceilings, water fountains as the Alhambra and we can relate. We can appreciate that the Alhambra in Granada is the best preserved in Spain and UNESCO listed.

The cathedral is chiming and it’s coming towards midday, the bars are busy it’s quite hot, however the malls are half shaded by the buildings and the marble paving is cool. A group of teens with beach towels slung over their shoulders carrying beach umbrellas off to the beach … it’s not far although the sea breeze is in … that doesn’t stop the Spaniards.

We watch the mens final of French Open. Nadal is too good for Ruud however such a nice guy … looking forward to seeing more of him in future tennis. We have just about exhausted our adventures of Malaga and off tomorrow on the bus.

A lovely meal at the Recycle Bike Cafe … it just hit the spot.

Food glorious food …

The day started with a trip to the markets for cherries, munching as we walked finding a place for breakfast.  It didn’t take long; few steps as we saw a cafe full of tables spreading up the alleys, waiters toing and froing serving, taking orders and delivering churros … yes for breakfast. This looks like the place to be so we found a table and watched the staff hard working to satisfy their clientele.

Meanwhile John has learned to order a ‘tostada’ … ham and cheese.  The coffee is the usual high standard for Spain.  Plates upon plates of churros are distributed to the tables. I order 4 churros and chocolate. One of those things like fish and chips that you only have a couple of times a year. They are delicious as is the chocolate sauce. The bill was 4 x churros 0.50€ chocolate sauce 2.50€ … bargain.

A clear day, we get the bikes and set off along the port to the beaches … where does the day go it’s approaching midday. The port has an array of shops and lots of restaurants , however on the seaside of the spit is the beaches are enjoyed by many, beach umbrellas and chairs are on the dark sand, people swimming, a breeze keeps us cool and doesn’t hinder the beach goers. A lot of foot traffic as we weave through the continual beaches on the path.

The smell of barbecues fills the air, we are approaching the beachside bars/restaurants called Chiringuitos, this is something we had to try. The man at the tourist advised to try some at a nearby fishing village about 3km from the centre. Sure enough we came to Pedregalejo, a small beach and lively with sunseekers and people enjoying a drink. Small barbecues are alight … it’s about 1.30pm .. we are early for the Spanish; their lunch is around 3pm, so first cab off the rank and we have ordered 2 x espetos de sardines (barbecued sardines on a skewer) I looked totally touristy as I took pics of the process. The sardines arrived and were delicious along with a salad and fried calamari.

The sea breeze is quite strong but it doesn’t stop the tanning process for those on the beach as more people come with chairs and towels.

What a lovely atmosphere as we ride back to the city centre. Much better by bike.

Its 6pm the sun is still high I do a double take on the time; we wander through the endless malls and shopping areas … the shops are still open and bars and cafes are full … it’s quite a few hours before it gets dark.

John’s breakfast request had the shop owner and his staff laughing … but why? We soon found out. A sweet sugar coated pastry toasted with ham. It’s about time he learned to ask for a tostada with jamon. Luckily my request is usually a plain croissant. I judge the cafe’s by the croissants … if they have sugar on top it’s a no go. So far croissants have been 99% 5/5.

It’s so good when you have a clean out of your maps, old tickets etc, then John said as we are about to leave … ‘okay got the tickets?’ Oops … in the bin … lucky me!!! as I retrieve the bus tickets for Malaga … whew that could have been ugly!!

We are getting good at wrapping the bikes ready for bus travel. A great bus trip to Malaga and feeling glad we weren’t climbing the mountains. The country was picturesque it would have been nice to tackle the ride but we do have to get to Portugal some time. The mountains were a mass of olive groves all in their neat rows spread for kilometres. Weaving through the valleys numerous crops, grain and asparagus. Such pretty countryside.

Into Malaga by midday and a short 1.5km ride to the hotel situated just near the old town. We are fresh and off exploring map in hand with a list of monuments to find. First up the food market … I love browsing through these … we are back on the coast so seafood is a big seller here. We buy a cone full of cherries 1.80€ delicious as we walk and munch, crisp and sweet. A little later a Caesar salad and fried calamari … I love the way they say ‘calamaris’. … and a beer.

The old town is easy to get around and appears to be ‘new’ in comparison to Granada, cleanly painted buildings amongst the old, little alleys with tables and chairs outside cafes and restaurants. We see the Roman Theatre at the foot of the Alcazaba fortress. The Roman theatre is the oldest monument in Malaga City, I thought it looked special … John was not Inspired!! The Alcazaba towers above … that’s a tomorrow morning job says John.

We meander through lovely gardens towards the port. That’s given us ideas for tomorrow … watching the French Open to see Zverev Vs Nadal in a terrible catastrophe for Zverev.

We had a lovely dinner in the old town … Ican see the chef was passionate about his food so was the wait staff. Grilled tuna with salad was the special tonight … yes please … the wine when down equally as good. On paying a shot of some Spanish liqueur sealed the deal. It’s lovely roaming back through the wide mall, the shiny paving reflective in the street lights and shop windows. Great for pics.

Granada …granduer, grand, grander ...

We have had the last 2 nights here in Granada, not long enough to explore the entire city but long enough for us. There are only so many churches etc you can visit (or I want to visit). It was quite hot when we got here on Tuesday; Wednesday was also hot. It’s nice to stroll around the narrow streets, shaded by the tall building and come across little bars and restaurants; at one stage I thought I was in Morocco, the restaurants all offering tagines, shops selling Moroccan style clothing, tablecloths etc

Last night we went to a flamenco show which was great, we didn’t get back until after midnight, I hope I didn’t wake the ‘neighbours’ while practising my flamenco moves. I thought HIIT step at the gym was hard. The energy consumed in the dancers.

Today was a perfect day, a little cloud cover, we did a guided tour of the Alhambra, one of the most visited places in Spain, and a UNESCO site. The tour took 3 hours, ‘3 hours’, I thought … ‘that’s a long time’ …well our heads were saturated with culture and history from a young guy who has a history degree and has been visiting the Alhambra since birth …he was so passionate; of course he was … he lives it!!

It’s hard to describe the gardens so manicured, jasmine is prevalent on walls the scent wafting in the air . A combination of Christian and Muslim architecture, simply awe-inspiring. Our guide could not stress enough the importance of water; fountains everywhere important for the hot summers, peace and tranquillity.

… and the beauty still goes on … on our way out (we are near the University precinct) we have heard stringed instruments rehearsing over the last few days at an auditorium) today however as we head out past the auditorium we poke our head into the quadrangle of the building and see a stringed orchestra and opera singer … goosebumps stuff.

Further on we discover the Bib-Rambla area, tiny alleys full of shops … the Plaza full of restaurants. We have a bite to eat and sap in the atmosphere.

Yes … there is possibly bucket loads more to see but we must move on tomorrow.

Leaving Guadix from our cave accommodation … cave houses are everywhere and recognisable by chimneys out of hills and usually a piece of material draped across the entrance.

We are in for a good climbing day at least for the first 27km.  Strategically mapped to avoid any forbidden highways, that was easy as there are suitable options today. 

We pass through Purullena only 7km into our ride and on a nice downhill, there is a cave museum.  ‘I think we should stop and have a look’ that we did and glad.  The family home was open and the two houses above displaying the historic set up and memorabilia.  The family is in the process of extending … one area is being dug out.  Fascinating to say the least  Purullena is known in the Province of Granada as the Troglodyte City. Today there are more than 400 families living this way of life.

Off we go the take a turn to the left away from the highways, passing by many rugged hills with familiar chimneys indicative of cave houses.  The climb was unforgiving as we went through a couple of small towns.  We met an Italian tour cyclists coming in the opposite direction … he restored my confidence staying his mapping has sent him up strange directions also. 

Feeling the serenity with no trucks, a handful of cars and a scattering of road cyclists, in fact more road cyclists than cars today.  I’m not sure serenity and 27km of climbing should be said in one sentence, though.  The landscape changed dramatically, the bare rugged mountains became tree covered.  The pine scent filling the air was pleasant as it got hotter.  I love the smell of pine forests. 

After a couple of hours we reached the peak … a momento scratched on the road that we had made it, well done … I’m sure it was for us.  We met some road cyclists interested in our travels, they were out training for a 200km race next month in the Pyrennes.  They were going back to Granada then doing some more hills in the Sierra Nevada … ‘what!!! … you are doing that today as well!!!’  Yes he said.

Although we were on the downhill now there was a bit of climbing sections but very little, a lake down below was stunning, the blue water and the rugged rocks … further on it was dammed. 

‘Okay … the next town we get lunch’ says John, the village of Dudar 14km out of Granada hit the spot.  Tables and chairs out the front of a bar … the publican suggested a table inside … good choice it’s rather hot outside.  The locals look at us with enquiring eyes as we say ‘hola’  A 2 beer lunch, I think we have earned it and a Caesar salad each … the publican tried to upsell with meat, dessert, coffee.  14km to go … no thank you. We leave … it’s got hotter … 39C at one stage on garmin.

It’s so nice to be guided to the hotel through the streets without thinking … right to the doorstep … thanks garmin, well Done!

Now the work begins … 3 nights here to see what we can.

Bicycles not permitted on Autovia

A 53km ride and first 25km uphill. Coming out of Baza was a terrible climb into a headwind. The gradient steep for about 5km and on a limestone rock road but we conquered it and lapped up the views from the surrounding mountains and valleys. Correction from yesterday, the Orange groves were almonds trees, they are everywhere today as far as the eye can see, in different stage of growth. Are almonds the new superfood or is it the almond milk production and gluten free products? It is a big industry here in Spain.

The mountains are stunning, a mob of sheep with a few goats as we pass by a road alongside the highway. There are shepherds, up ahead is a man with a shepherds crook and 5 dogs just strolling down the path towards us. We stop for a chat … we work out he has 600 head of sheep … they look extremely healthy, and are not bothered by us, just happily grazing and keeping up with man. Although he can’t speak English we may be the only conversation he’ll have all day.

We keep following the highway on the path, a road house stop for a coffee, no villages here. Later we bypass to the village of Gor sitting in a valley, what a lovely sight a great downhill into the town … oops we have missed the turnoff to the square and ridden through the town.

We have come to the end of the ascent and looking to the next 25km of downhill. We come ‘off course’ as garmin gets tired and wants to go to sleep. All’s good we see some paths that should take us in the general direction to Guadix … road signs on highway verify. I can see we are off course but not far away as we go along dirt roads then double back. Another attempt on another road … double back again … perhaps the other side of the highway … double back … back on the other side different path … dead end at phone towers. Our course is near as we look below over the rugged mountains that we have climbed to a spaghetti of roads and highways … Guadix not far in the distance.

By this stage we realise we have explored all options and have to go on the highway. ‘I’m sure it is the N-432 where we saw the bikes are allowed’ a nice big shoulder, within 5 minutes we are stopped by a police patrol car. They are quite angry and we can’t communicate other than one said ‘are you crazy’ after some google translate asking them how can we get there, we have tried all the side roads that came to dead ends. After some time, 2 policemen on motorbikes say follow me … one in front and one behind escorted us on the road shoulder for the 5km off the Autovia ‘no problem’ they say; Garmin then indicates it’s ‘course found’ we finally get to our accommodation, without a stiff fine and in the ‘lock up’.

We are troglodytes tonight … for a bit of fun we are booked into a cave house.

Anyone following my strata can get a laugh out of the back tracking we did today. 11km over.

Although I’ve mapped tomorrow’s ride I’m feeling a little anxious.