Think Japan … think rice paddies …

It has a Saturday feel about … minutes away a nice coffee shop breakfast near the station, it’s 7.30am there is hustle and bustle around as people are in a hurry … to catch a train? Get to work? Who knows but it’s lively … this is Tokyo.

Komoot has us out of the city without going through the centre. It’s already 26°C, the road is easier today than the footpath – the suburbs are clean and neat – everyone is out and about on their bikes; families – 1 adult with 2 kids front and back on one bike – it works well here; aged folk just enjoying the sunny day; middle aged school kids on their way to sport with their sports equipment bag over their shoulders. Komoot likes the suburbs and little lanes, so do I – you get a real feel for the place.

Then as we go further out we travel along several river levees – cloudless skies, a running track; looks like a pop-up golf course; baseball and softball diamonds everywhere with players in action; soccer pitches and many lycra lads on their roadies. I love travelling on Saturdays it’s always entertaining along a river bed to stop and watch a baseball game for a while.

Before we know it the temperature has risen to 37°C a few stops to refill water bottles. A break from suburbia and a very large plain before us as we ride over a long bridge and below rice paddies galore. More towns and agricultural areas before we reach Tsuchiura at the northern end of Lake Kasumigaura, the second largest lake in Japan.

Check into the hotel for 2 nights … we grab a few drinks and ride along a lakeside cycle path, find a bench and enjoy the serenity as the sun starts to set.

A lovely day 30°C+ started with a cafe breakfast and 9:30am Soshi’s City Bike tour. We covered a very different area to what we did yesterday so that was an extra bonus.

The business; high end fashion areas this included Uniqlo which isn’t high end but the worlds largest flagship store – 12 floor high; the Lion Beer Hall – first in Tokyo in Ginza district; the geek area in Akihabara was interesting with anime, anything electronic in billboarded buildings.

The Sumo stadium where we stood and watched the wrestlers enter and leave. The morning session is the low end ability and later in the evening the higher class begin. Sumo is still Japan’s first major sport, followed by baseball and soccer.

The Imperial Palace; the richest real estate in the world, 300 hectares – 2 people live there and 1000 staff.

The Hibiya Park – we hear an orchestra – a weekly free midday concert … however this park will be transformed later this afternoon as the 10 day Oktoberfest is in progress – 17 – 26 May … only in Japan …they have the ‘Oktoberfest’ 3 times a year.

The ride finishes – a couple from Tel Aviv and a father/daughter from Washington DC all nice company. We decide to have a drink at the Lion Beer Hall, then find a bakery in a shopping centre in Hibiya – I have wifi and can Komoot our way back to our guesthouse.

Washing to do and meet a lovely Turkish couple living in Spain, equally impressed by their first time in Japan.

Nice day … 2 nights is enough in Tokyo.

You can’t go to Japan without going to Tokyo …

Well, I could but didn’t get away with it. A short 27km ride and here we are in Tokyo. It just seemed a continuous ride through suburbs nice 2 story housing, schools, parks and lots of tree lined main roads. We are staying at Okubo, just outside Shinjuku the administration and nightlife area.

A trip to the station to the tourist office was very fruitful … I’ve been trying to book our passage on the ferry to Hokkaido several times but unsuccessful … a help from the staff and I can now say we are off to Hokkaido on Monday on the 19hr overnight ferry.

Meanwhile here we are in the capital city of Japan – bustling with tall buildings and people. There is nothing more exhilarating than riding like a local – switching from road to footpath to avoid people, traffic lights and traffic.

I’ve read about bike parking and confiscation. John managed to get himself a warning – I was in a dedicated cycle bay – he was chained next to me (not in a ‘spot’) Lucky it was a warning only.

A visit to the Meiji Jingu – a lovely large park – very bushy with Torii Gates and temples then off to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building – 45 floors in 54 seconds and we are getting a panoramic view of the city. Just a short 15 minute queue.

It’s after 5pm amd we haven’t checked in to our guesthouse and my phone battery is getting low. A few pics of what will be extraordinary in the dark tonight … the billboarded buildings.

A walk to where the action was in Kabukicho – no street lighting required, the neon lights do enough. Lots of restaurants and entertainment. Nearby is Shinjuku Golden Gai – narrow alleyways full of tiny bars.

What an exciting evening.

It’s all downhill … just a little spike …

A mostly cloudy day … great breakfast and off again. Mt Fuji was still asleep … we were hoping for a view but it didn’t happen. All was behind us as we descended through the valley with mountains close by. It was very pretty through the mountains, river, a few rice paddies and vegetable gardens. I’m a sucker for reflections in rice paddies. Komoot took us on backroads which was a nice break from the pitted road and many trucks today. Although there were a few times that the main road got our vote.

The towns just blended into each other. Lots of bridges and spectacular views across the river deep down below us. The river was flowing quite rapidly … did the rain yesterday have much effect

Some nice bridges and hilltop settlements, stunning views. There was an opportunity to go by the main road or Komoot, we chose Komoot.

‘I hope I don’t live to regret this, John’, I say.

Down we went to the river – lovely views … but the main road was above us! Sure enough we had to make the ascent in switchbacks. It was a lovely forest road and good climbs … I think it’s all relative now … no pain – just take it slowly and enjoy. We finally reach the main road and once again have wonderful views of the river and mountains deep down below. We are hoping for a shopping centre for a bakery lunch … fat chance! The towns are small before we start climbing again.

‘I think this is the spike, John!, I say,

He replies, I thought we had the ‘spike’ on several occasions before!

After many swichbacks and hoping for a tunnel that didn’t happen we scaled the mountain unfortunately we were on the wrong side of the road to capture a complete view – the descent was great then a 2km long tunnel … the landscape immediately changed from a forest environment to a large cityscape.

My thoughts were ‘take me back!’ I was loving the natural environment!

We are now on the outskirts of Tokyo – high density living – a huge railway precinct surrounded by shops and restaurants and people.

Finding Dory Fuji

I don’t think John ever believed that today was going to be so rainy – I had been following the weather pattern since we got here and check weather reports daily. I hate a wasted day so was waking up all night listening if it was raining …

It was raining and very steady and heavy … our hotel is only 3 weeks old everything is nice and new … rooms and foyers have nice artwork. The floors are shiny porcelain tiles. A spa/sauna great spacious dining room for breakfasts and a separate bar area with comfy lounges and tables and chairs … there could be worse places to be held up in wet weather.

Breakfast this morning was amazing; miso soup, rice, several salads, small frankfurters, amazing vegie curry sauce, fried noodles, scrambled eggs, bread, good coffee and plenty of it all.

By 1pm the rain stopped and we ventured to the station … the bus to Mt Fuji is not operating today due to the weather … the sky is clearing in patches and we look up and see a glimpse of the mountain but not for long before it disappears.

The sky continues to clear but heavy clouds hang around Fuji we get on the bikes and cross the bridge – the sun eliminates the hills with various shades of green. The lake is stunning and tranquil … we watch a lake tour boat. The clouds break through to tease us with a small glimpse of Mt Fuji. All good I’m sure tomorrow will see a good view of the mountain as we head towards Tokyo.

Finding Nemo Fuji …

I’m loving the Japanese breakfast – we have became members of a hotel chain ‘Toyoko Inn’ it’s reasonably priced and includes breakfast and early check in of 3pm … normally 4pm. The breakfast today was sooo nice … miso soup, salads, vegie curry and rice, croissants and pain au chocolat … all that I needed for the ride today.

Komoot did a sterling job on back streets … it’s Monday 8:20am lots of kids on bikes going to school …

Then through the ‘burbs … small vineyards popping up … the further we went … less houses and a serious wine growing region. The vines grown on horizontal trellises to minimise wind damage from typhoons. They look very cool. There are also lots of peach orchards.

Absolutely lovely country a change from rice paddies, which I like!

Then a good 2 plus hour climb – lovely scenery and mountains … no valley’s today just good hard yakka. A rewarding 2.8km tunnel … no dedicated cyclepath but traffic well behaved. Then 2 more shorter tunnels and the lake was in view.

There are 5 lakes at the base of Mt Fuji – we went around Lake Kawaguchiko and Saiko. A lovely ride and wonderful views of the lake and mountains.

We are stationed here for 2 nights as we are expecting a lot of rain tonight and tomorrow 33mm this evening and 53mm tomorrow. It will be a nice break.

Mt Fuji is not social at the moment … heres hoping for a viewing before we leave.

I think you will struggle to get photos today … (says John)

A comfortable stay in our hilltop digs … very quiet … morning view of the lake was lovely – blue skies and what appeared quite still while enjoying pineapple, strawberries and banana for breakfast.

A detour by the lake before heading off … my assumption of still was wrong … that strong headwind is again with us. Luckily a slight incline for 20km then dowhill for 50km … it that possible … yes apparently.

The landscape and road quality was ordinary to start with then a tunnel and down we went … some great descents … mountains were lit by the sun, terraced rice paddies for many kilometres, despite the wind the ride was great.

We met John from Ireland, living in Korea as he was going in the opposite direction. I felt for him with some climbs ahead, however he had a tailwind to assist.

We are now enveloped in mountains as we ride through the valley. Lots of groups of fancy motorcycles out for a Sunday ride.

The rice paddies gave way to some vineyards … not big, however this area is known for it’s wine … roads going in all directions … we are getting close to Tokyo.

The towns just joined together and before we knew it, we were in Kofu, a bakery lunch at the station – great french bakery, our hotel was ready for our room … the afternoon spent planning for the next week. The joys of touring …

It’s good when you don’t have to rush …

A quick look around the old town of Matsumoto and the Castle before heading off. A nice little neat precinct.

On our way – not a long ride about 40kms, however a very strong headwind as we climbed over the mountains – no valley today!

We are in the backroads passing through rice paddies, a lot of planting today as we watch the tractors in action planting the trays of seedlings.

Then about 7km of very steep climbs – we hear a lot of drums coming from above … after a very steep climb a small wine festival … Sun Sun Winery has attracted a crowd and a group of traditional Japanese taiko drummers are entertaining in the carpark … it is only ramping up as food stalls look ready to begin cooking. The carpark is a great spot for a view of the city and surrounds.

We continue climbing for a short while and then over the hill with Lake Suwa and lakeside towns of Okaya and Suwa. A long descent and headwinds have not relented … we find the lakeside path … it’s probably not at its best today … a little overcast and very windy. There is a lovely running/walking track, grassed areas and boats for water activities all on offer but not today.

We read the fine print ‘after’ confirming our accommodation … oops ‘access only by foot – no car access – 150 steps … not suitable for walking impaired people’

An email to the host and it is possible to store our bikes … we find the closest road access which was easier than what we have done today and an 80 step down. We are the only guests today … bought ready made food from the supermarket … just need the microwave and dinner taken care of ‘takeaway’ Noodles and chicken for John; tempura vegies, rice and chicken for me … fresh pineapple and strawberries. The supermarkets have the most amazing prepacked meals here … hotels and guesthouses have a microwave. My view is the lake … sadly due to the overcast conditions our sunset will not be very good … I can only imagine …

A lovely tree change at the base of the mountains.

Spring has sprung in the valley – tulips are featured in the gardens along with many other colourful spring flowers.
Hakuba was host of the 1998 Winter Olympics. A winter sports hub, Hakuba encompasses mountain resorts with terrain for skiing, snowboarding and hiking. The Hakuba Ski Jumping Stadium, built for the 1998 games, is at the base of the Happo-one resort.

Our guesthouse was a 10 minute walk to the Goryu ski lift. We enjoyed a quiet stay in K’s House Hakuba Alps Backpackers Hostel. Lovely hosts – a couple full of knowledge and English speaking. Lots of accommodation in the area but most closed. It would be a sight to see in winter.

It was an easy ride mostly downhill through the valley. Great views of the mountains on both sides, splashes of snow in the high alps. 3 small lakes equally as scenic. Rice paddies, agricultural and hot houses were all part of our great downhill run.

Back into a big city, Matsumoto with tall buildings the station looks to be the hub of activity. Too early to check in – the Shinshu Flower Festival is advertised, in flags along the street poles – a free shuttle service and free entry.

The highlight of my day.

A huge Japanese delicious breakfast prepared by the guesthouse, would it weigh me down or give me the energy for the continuous climbing today.

A welcome tailwind as we left the coast and headed inland – scattered snow covered mountains before us … we were a little tentative yet excited.

Lovely scenery, rice paddies, the raging river and the alps.

Before we knew it a tunnel, in our favour a lot of tunnel roadworks so traffic controllers are directing traffic one direction only … I’m sure they were keeping a eye on us through their two-ways.

Running on adrenaline with the thundering sound of the trucks, the river is equally thundering.

We seem to be in tunnels more than the open road … one tunnel was 5.777km … scary stuff. I’m thankful for the drivers.

Between the tunnels we have amazing views of the mountains, waterfalls and river.

Our day is somewhat a surprise as I had imagined a lot more climbing – the tunnels took that away.

We are staying in a nice tree change … very wooded area … a 10 minute walk to the start of a ski lift. As it is off season most places/restaurants are closed but we venture to the ski lift area … beautiful views. A pinch yourself moment.