What a palava of a day!!

Well it probably started yesterday when we realised that our credit card had been compromised … thankfully we could alert the bank through their app.  However we have to contact them personally and don’t have Skype or mobile coveraage … we will work it out.

By 8.49am we were on the train to Barcelona … the train was even early. It goes through the coastal towns we rode last week. Be careful of early trains … at Arenys Mar there’s an announcement … not in English … people sigh … what I can gather is there is a 1 hour delay … we are lucky to have seats, our bikes are surrounded by young German girls in the bike area sitting between our bikes as the train is quite full. Just short of an hour and we are off. I did suggest just taking the bikes and riding for the next 40km … John was far from keen, it would have been nice.

We get to the Barcelona station and ride a short distance to Espanya station where we can catch the train to Montserrat; in the mean time we get some lunch at a place where we were last week at the Magica Fountains… the lady recognised us, the WiFi remembered me … am I a local?

On our way, accommodation is booked in Montserrat only 100m from the station. Ummm … which station … there are a few ‘Montserrat’ stations (I had previously asked John is there is anything i should to map on Komoot?) anyway we get out at the station at the start of the chairlift … no hotel in sight … up the road we ask someone ,,, he shows us on google maps a very windy road indicative of lots of climbing … shit … we are not going there!! We have to find somewhere with wifI. A small bar is nearby and we talk to some Scottish couples … we have never been so pleased when they said we could get the chairlift to the monastery and they have seen the hostel we were staying. John says he’s a life saver (more than that!!). So off we go on the chairlift with bikes …. only to find at the top . the train station … we should have gone to the next station.

We hit the road running …. went to the Basilica, caught the funicular railway went walking around and found the only place to eat was a fine dining restaurant aka pay heaps eats little …

The end of the story … John is taken back with our surrounds and having ‘a pinch yourself moment’. Haha he is gutted that his citibank card is not working or his bankwest so I am the finance officer as all my cards are working. Can he be responsible for the door key for the hotel??

What started as early only to find a 9.30am bus. We own this place now … so easy to get to the railway/bus station. There is a dual purpose cycleway under the rail line (on street level) just follow and we are there easily. The bus driver was a bit cranky as 4 bikes were coming. I hope our bikes make the trip on top of each other.

We are riding the northern section of the narrow gauge railway route 1 from the volcanic town of Olot to Girona.

Bikes made it okay and we ride to the volcano Montsacopa, apparently there are 4 volcano’s around the city. We climb on the path and end up having to walk the bikes. A young school group is there and John entertains the kids by telling them we are from Australia and talking about hopping like a kangaroo. The kids then started saying ‘hello’. The views from around the crater walking trail are spectacular. The school kids are busy running down the steps to the grassed area inside the volcano.

Back to the town to start the our return on the Green Way. The path is compacted dirt and is in very good condition. We chose to go this way as it is mainly down hill. 12km of slight uphill gradient, a few spikes then about 40km downhill. Free-wheeling for a lot. It’s 32°C and quite hot but the nature of this path delivers.

This must be one of the best rail trails I’ve ridden. We are surrounded by mountains. The trail leads us through agricultural areas but mostly we are in the shade of a canopy of trees or cliff faces as the track for the train would have cut through the hills, this is where the temperature plummets I’m sure by at least 10°C. We ride through some dense forest areas and constantly see sign posted tracks veering off for hikers. This is definitely a playground for the adventure seeker.

A little bumpy …

Very easy to get the train with the bikes today. Lifts at stations, plenty of room for the bikes and trains very clean indicative of our Spanish experience.

We are off on a route I found on the internet. Note to self … don’t expect the trains to run on time … 20 minutes late, however there were sooo many people coming off … the flower festival is the attraction no doubt, at least there was plenty of room for us.

Off the train and a ride to where we see a morning market … we see cherries … John hands over 2€ and we get a bag of cherries … the grower said that it is the first day of cherry sales … yeah!!! They are nice … his orchard is about 5km away.

The path is well sign posted however I have it mapped on my garmin. We pass through back paths and roads … at times rather rough and bumpy. ‘I hope it’s not all like this’.

We are amongst new corn crops, oats, potatoes, canola, apples probably more that I couldn’t identify. Here we are in the middle of the country, ahead we see the silhouette of the mountains … these are the Pyrennes.

Passing by a little town of Vilanova de la Muga .., don’t blink! We back tracked and found an intersection with a restaurant and Cafe. A few tables out the front some local senior gentleman having their wine and beer … about 4 ladies on bikes having coffee. John does the typical ‘bikie’ thing and moves a table under the shade. I’m sure we haven’t offended anyone. Coffee and pastry later we head back on the bumpy roads.

As we go further east the mountains become clearer, there appears to be snow on the far northern ranges. Our route is empty of other cyclists until we approach the outskirts of Roses. The hills are a mass of houses stretching to the top, how do they build them? Before we know it we come across an unexpected Citadel in Roses. The high walls attract us as we see people walking at the top. It was the home of the Greeks many years ago who founded this area. It was a relaxing stroll through the grounds; seeing the excavated areas and views from the wall were breathtaking.

The beach is only 100m away, the wide path and long beachfront is looking relaxed before a hectic peak season to come. It is easy cycling a few beach umbrellas and sunbathers. The town centre is also very quiet the odd bar is open … we have a panini at a Cafe amongst mostly closed shops … it is 2pm and shops have closed for siesta, due to open later in the afternoon.

John is taken back and claims it is his favourite place on the Costa Brava.

We leave to head back on our loop on the foreshore, some restaurants are open; a canal area called Empuriabrava looks very affluent as we cross over small bridges.

Back in to the rural area to find the medieval town of Castelló d’Empûries. We ride to the Basilica de Santa Maria high on the hill through quaint narrow alleys. It’s a short ride back through more rural areas to Figueres and onto the train.

Temps de Flores …Flowers and more flowers ,,, no bikes

An early start to seek breakfast in town … we are about a 15 minute walk away.

We enter the Old Town via one of the many bridges over the Onyar River, the temptation is there to take yet another pic of the colourful buildings on the river, it’s around 9.15am and the narrow streets are mostly deserted. Large metal roller doors are down of what was a bustling shop yesterday. The occasional door half open as the owner has arrived and getting ready for a day’s trading.

We recognise some of the flower displays from our hectic entrance yesterday no crowd at the moment. We cross the river again at another bridge and see an array of flower exhibitions in the Placa de la Independencia, on of Girona’s most popular squares featuring many restaurants, the flowers are amazing like all the exhibitions in the city during this Flower Festival. A small cafe attracts John’s eye and we settle for coffee and pastries.

The city is now coming alive … doors open, brooms out and shopkeepers are doing the last minute touch ups before a day’s trading. The tourist office gave us some guidance and sadly the path walk along the top of the city wall is closed while there are so many tourists in town. I’m taken back by school displays for the festival … one arcade designated to entrants from schools.

A walk on the outside of the wall then we venture inside again to explore the Jewish Quarter; so have many others … yes it’s started again for what proves another busy day. People everywhere and ushers directing tourists in a one way direction. The views of the narrow alleys coupled with the aged walls makes it a mecca for the keen photographer. There are no bad photos, flowers are the attraction for many and the city has done it so well. There is a reason it attracts so many people to the area.

Weaving through the alleys of the Jewish Quarter and people following, some on a guided tour we stumbled upon an open Jewish house leading us up small staircases, through arches all adorned with floral displays.

Another photo pic from the Pont de les Peixateries Velles (One of Girona’s 11 bridges, Eiffel Bridge (Pont de les Peixateries Velles) shines bright red and spans the place where four rivers meet. Eiffel’s Parisian architecture firm constructed this bridge before it built the Eiffel Tower.) I was most interested with this as I recently saw the movie ‘Eiffel’.

Are you sure we’re in Spain?

It’s Mothers’ Day in Australia, the kids have already sent messages as I wake up.  We have a buffet breakfast which is more than adequate – bacon, eggs, croissant, meats and cheese… all what a good breakfast can take. 

Sant Feliu seems rather quiet as we leave headed for the Verde ‘green’ route to Girona.  Leaving the coast, we head inland… it is an old narrow gauge train track, now a cycle and walking trail. 

A different genre of cyclists today, the trails attracts families on mountain bikes, a combination of all ages and lots of electric bikes.

The compacted surface made easy riding.  We pass by farmland growing grain, bushland … are you sure we are in Spain … these are our thoughts as we see the yellow flowering low shrubs, and gumtrees they look like stringy barks and white gums.  Should we on the watch for kangaroos?  The sight of a castle in a small towns brings me back to reality. 

As we stop for a drink break a man with very good English warns us that there should be a little bit of rain between 12 and 2pm.  Sure enough just after midday there is a rumbling in the sky and a few drops of rain …nothing to consider a rain jacket.

It’s a nice easy ride in the country and soon we reach Girona … there seems to be congestion ahead … Girona is having a Flower Show … garmin didn’t factor this in when taking a tourist route through the Old Town.  People everywhere … the shops are decorated in flowers, there are some flower exhibitions indicative of a competition, we weave through the maze of alleys following our garmin’s route walking our bikes it’s slow going as we wait for people to take their perfect photo opportunity with flower arrangements in their background.

We finally leave the Old Town and head to our hotel. Return to the old town some 3km and a lovely lunch.

We are looking forward to discovering more of the city tomorrow … we learn that the final of Madrid Open tennis is tonight so happy to watch it in our room and see the young Spaniard take home the trophy.

It will be just like climbing Welshpool Road … haha how long since he’s been up there … Years!!

The day started with a buffet breakfast; Johnny was in his element – bacon and eggs, toast, coffee.  Be careful – we have lots of climbs today!

We set off along the beach path … it’s Saturday … a group of possible triathletes are gathered in their tri gear …markers along the path.

We pass many beach communities, the shops are displaying everything from buckets and spades, inflatable beach products to beach clothing… a feeling of a great tourist season after a 2 year drought due to Covid.

The beach paths are filling up with walkers of all ages enjoying the lovely morning … others are laden with beach chairs etc … a day of lazing on the beach for them. A photo shoot is about to take place on a group of rocks by the sea … photographer, light umbrella and a stunning couple dressed in speedos and bikini … it has to be for a body building or gym pic … they are muscle bound.

There are no signs of covid apart from hand sanitisers strategically placed at entrances to shops and cafes, the occasional mask signage at entrances to some places.

The sea meets the hills; the remainder of our ride is skirting around hills up and down.

Around lunch time we cycle into the lovely seaside town of Tossa de Mar. Down a hill then headed to the sea and there to the right was a magnificent castle. The beach was busy on such a lovely day so was the numerous cafe’s. Ticket sellers on the beach selling tours for a glass bottom boat that ventures 6km north to visit caves and view the underwater life. We venture part of the way up the path to the castle and have great views.

The rest of the day was a series of climbs rewarded with spectacular views. Those who were not at the beach today were out on their road bikes. Our Australian flag on the back of our bikes paid off today as we were a bit of a hit to the many group cyclists passing us saying hello and urging is on.

We met a Canadian with his 9yo daughter touring with tent headed to Maiseille… another man from The Netherlands on bike … common denominator was they were able to working remotely; sick of being locked down for the last 2 years. We also met a guy from Florida the other day who is ‘working from home’ and his colleagues think he IS at home … the new World!!!

So here we are in Sant Feliu a nice seaside town with narrow streets … a walk around another castle in sight … it was actually a monastery in it’s day now a museum and tourist information office.

On the street out the front of our hotel is a wine tasting festival of local wines … wine not! I taste several rose’… very nice. We have a good recommendation for paella from the hotelier … a place called Hot Dog … he said don’t be put off by the name. The paella was up to expectation we were even able to see the Alcarez win the Madrid Open.

John thinks we are ready for anything after today’s ride.

Don’t always listen to the locals particularly (with respect) elderly men who aren’t on a bike; however later in the afternoon a young man directed us via a nudist beach.

A good start out … we have riden this way several times but garmin has frozen eekk. We stop to double check and are confronted by the elderly man … bless his cotton socks trying to help, so off we went on his advice and did a total loop … 4km later we pick up the coastal route joining EuroVelo 8. The beaches were wide and the path was so close at times I could put my leg out and nearly get a splash as the waves crashed against the rocks.

The whole day was filled with sunny clear weather perfect for cycling; a mix of sandy long beaches, rocky edges and many marinas. The water was sparkling in azure blue … I was looking for Rottnest Island.

With garmin out of action I missed a few turns and we ended up going through market garden wholesalers – I’ve never seen so many hothouse and nursery’s in one region. Back on track – the further we went the more spectacular the coast became. Just before we reach Calella we left the coast to venture over coastal hills; small climbs with spectacular views of the beaches below. Our accommodation is on the beach. The whole town is just hotels and holiday apartments.

It was great to get out of the city and into some very easy riding. The roads are very clean and traffic not heavy. Booked into the hotel I have access to WiFi and unfreeze garmin … a quick google search and find that the has actually tracked today’s ride in kms but not tracked it … better than nothing … fingers crossed for tomorrow.

It’s good to get off the bike and be a tourist … sometimes

How convenient … John had to borrow some anklet socks … a walk out of the hotel and there in front of us was a morning market setting up. 2€ later and he has 3 pair of socks and some for me too … I was looking forward to a shop at Uniqlo though.

Plan for the day was to catch the Metro … so proud of our achievements … such seasoned travellers … purchased day tickets. John was just reminiscing about buskers on trains when at the next station a busker came on and entertained as with his song. On our return some violinists came on board … a nice touch,

Off to our first destination – La Rambla to go through the Mercat de la Boqueria. A feast for all about food, the utmost attention to presentation. I just can’t get enough of it … an array of colours of the produce.

We are pleased this is not peak season as there was plenty of opportunity to take pics without too many people in the way.

Next we are back onto the Metro to Espanya station on our way to see Font Magica and Montjuic. Font Magica is an amazing series of waterfalls and fountains at the foot of a museum and further on the castle at Montjuic. A series of steps and escalators then a long walk on paths and lovely gardens. Finally at the top to have an amazing view of the city and harbour, we are pretty happy with the view so decline to take the cable car.

A long way back then to the Barcelona Arena now converted to a commercial centre. This was home to bullfighting … umm it sort of looks familiar of my last visit in 1978 when I attended a bullfight here. It’s nice to see they have kept the original facade … the 5 floors are now shops, cinemas and restaurants. Great views from the top floor where you can walk around the surrounds.

Save the best to last … back to the Font Magica for 9pm for a synchronised fountain display with music.

A guided bike tour

Feeling much more confident on the roads, we are heading to the centre to meet up for our Fat Tire Bike Tour. I have gamin navigating the way through the streets, we join the morning 2 wheelers on scooters, bikes and the like. The cycleways still blow me away, so organised and riders just know how to do it. Very narrow lane that accommodates 2 way bike traffic, throw in the odd tiny turning lane and tiny bike traffic lights and no angry riders … then mix all that with car and pedestrian traffic. Enough of that I’m just boring my reader.

So off we go on our tour; about 12 of us; a mix of people – USA, Canada, Holland, Ireland and us. The tour guide was Irish, we had a good mix of historical and modern landmarks with commentary. We were lucky that we didn’t double up on places we visited yesterday.

The most famous and most visited is Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia which has seen many years of work and still unfinished, however the word on the street is that it will be completed in 2026 … watch this SPACE! Although it is a work in progress it is a sight to see, with different architecture over a span of many decades: it is a great tourist attraction and it is possible to go inside if you have pre booked tickets or happy to stand in a queue.

We head down to the coast and stop to view the Olympic Port built for the 1992 Olympic Games. The beach sand was imported from Egypt and palm trees from the Canary Islands. It is quite overcast and mild however it doesn’t stop the beaches filling with a scattering of sunbathers and people enjoying beach activities.

The wide paths are adorned with walkers, cyclists and casual beach cafes/restaurants. The group stop at a restaurant and enjoy lunch. A lovely group and way to get to mingle. We had great tapas and of course too much … it was established that we order based on the prices ie we expect a lot less as the prices are very reasonable. Note to self … 2 tapas then order more later if needed.

We are getting too familiar with this place now and find our way back to the hotel easily.

An unguided bike tour

Set out today to a local Cafe for breakfast, John very happy to have a chocolate croissant and coffee.

We headed along the river and the coast to the city centre some 10km away. A bit of a light mist at times. Trying to find the tourist information office was difficult only for it to be closed until further notice. So here we are blindly trying to find tourist things to see. At least we are booked on a city bike tour tomorrow. We stumbled into the Gothic area with narrow streets at all angles and hidden plazas. Very quaint. A bakery Cafe in the Gothic area for lunch. Further on we came to La Rambla … now we see where the tourists hang out, we walk our bikes as we don’t see bikes or scooters around.

Heading back along the EuroVelo 8 … I just love the street cycle ways here, however we were chatted by a policeman near our hotel on a pedestrian path on our bikes … didn’t have the heart to tell him we were lost trying to find our hotel. Thankfully we found the hotel.

Another ‘find our way’ moment … we went out to dinner and lost our footing … it must have been the lemon lemoncello post meal … the waiter was from Italy … anyway we found our way with the help of a few locals … it was a nice walk in the balmy evening.