45km in the hills or 72km on the coast …

Starting at 8:15am after a good breakfast and the choice was made easy by the nice man on reception,

‘Route 188 is much more scenic on the coastal road’

That was easy … settled!! … getting out of the usual shops and car yards; then into suburbia; a group of girls jogging around a sand playing field shouting what I gather a team song; boys were gathered in the next sand field, and sacks of soccer balls in waiting. It’s Saturday … sports day.

It took 13km for route 188 to deliver – Komoot took us parellel to the main road to enjoy a lovely sandy beach between pine trees.

The coast is shared with industry so we were on and off the coast for a while until we could virtually dip our toes in the water; large expanses of coastline with views of the islands closeby. Concrete breakwaters provide small marinas for local fishing boats and a platform for recreational fishing.

We swapped between the bike/pedestrian path and narrow road shoulder and enjoyed the views while the km’s ticked away on the flat roads.

We made great time and were at our accommodation and checked in by 2pm. Iwakuni has some significant sights so we were back on our bikes to discover the Kintaikyo Bridge one of the most famous wooden bridges in the world built in 1673 … wow that’s an old bridge.

Over the river via the wooden bridge, a ropeway (cablecar) – elevation of 200m leads us up Mt Shiroyama to the Iwakuni Castle built in 1608. The whole precinct is a lovely afternoon out. Lovely walking paths and gardens – the cherry blossoms are finished however there are some pink blossoms equally as attractive in bloom today. Down the mountain there are great picnic areas and water features for the littlies to paddle. The river bed is a parking lot at the moment, I would suspect that in winter it would be the full complement of the river.

The hotel is a little away from the centre of town so a buffet meal for AUD$12 satisfies the palate … so much that I shouldn’t eat for a week.

We have clean and dry clothes thanks to the coil laundry …AUD$5 … all is good!!

The rugged coastline was our office this morning …

No rush today, less than 30km to catch a ferry across to Honshu. We are leaving Kyushu today.

Breakfast was included today – I don’t mind the traditional Japanese start to the morning; yoghurt and delicious pineapple; shredded cabbage and lettuce salad, grilled fish portions, gherkin, scrambled egg – very runny, rice. Sweet bread rolls with jam/butter. I can’t do the soybean natto (mentioned in a previous post). No sign of choc eggs or hot x buns … wrong side of the globe.

We rode on Route 213 along the coast, the rugged coastline and undulations added to the spectacular views of the bays at every turn.

A little hazy today which makes the far hills silhouetted on the horizon.

The gardens are always a welcome surprise – quite a bit of wisteria around in gardens and growing wild in amongst the trees.

I lost count of the tunnels today, although short; the echo from the cars seem thunderous – I always breathe a sigh of relief when I’m out.

We arrive to the ferry port at 11am and the ferry leaves at 2:20pm – the ticketing office is a work in progress – workers laying asphalt outside – a nice new building and a sign indicating that tickets can be purchased 30 minutes before the ferry leaves. We venture to the very small town to get some lunch … there is nowhere that looks like a supermarket – this is ‘out in the sticks’ no Lawsons, 7-11 or Family Mart … serious stuff!!! We decide to go further on the road to the next village 4km away … another tunnel and voila!! A country supermarket …

By the port there are large tarps with what looks like seaweed drying,

‘that maybe the makings of my sushi tomorrow’, I say.

Back to the port, we are able to purchase tickets at 1:15pm … the workmen have finished lunch and the serenity of us alone in the office is broken by compactors; the vapours of asphalt fill the room.

Thinking we are alone on the ferry, we are suddenly inundated with people at 1:40pm – a bus must have pulled in – the small ticket office is now a hive of activity – locals with suitcases and identical large paper shopping bags … they must have been on a shopping spree. All benches are taken – standing room only … I’m not game to move.

The ferry is approaching – we get our bikes and ride to the carpark ready to board … we know the drill … not a huge ferry; however there are a couple of large trucks and cars. The mans asks us for our tickets – then we are waved on … oh I felt like the queen … our little bikes amongst the big vehicles and we go first … a very special moment. A 2hr crossing and cost is AUD$100 for us and the bikes.

We are here in Tokuyama, Honshu, the hotel 5 minutes from the ferry … and a nice room. A soba noodle restaurant next door … sounds like a plan.

We are thankful for a young couple dining who help with our selection of duck soba noodles. The old lady speaks no English and there are no pics on the menu. Our meal arrives, it is very tasty.

Sue … you’re going the wrong way …

A clear day as we leave on the coastal road – lovely views of the bay and the hills that await us.We pass the outskirts of Beppu and small fishing villages then we head inland. Not much climbing today Route 10 just weaves through the hills which are quite close at times.

‘How many shades of green are there, John?’

I’m sure some of the hills can classify as mountains as they loom above us.

We are also following a river and see trains flash by and disappear through tunnels.The short gentle climb is in the first half of the morning then a long descent … perfect.We stop at Lawsons for a nature break then I lead the way … garmin is beeping at me; I can hear John yelling in the distance … I’m going the wrong way … oops!!!

On the way we visit Usa Jingu, an ancient shrine; its status as the principal shrine of Hachiman, the Shinto protector god of Japan. The buildings are set amongst ancient forest, unfortunately there is no English signage so our appreciation is somewhat lost. However, a wander amongst the trees is relaxing.

Back on our way to our booked accommodation at Bungotakada – a small quiet village in the Usa prefecture; quite a quaint village that probably wouldn’t attract tourists – we have a peaceful stroll on our bikes of our surrounds.

You can’t stay there – it’s too far on a bike …

It’s a Wednesday kind of Sunday … we are having a relaxing day.

Our first thing is to visit the AZ hotel here and pre book for tomorrow in Usa – they don’t advertise on booking.com and accommodation is tight – we have the staff entertained as they are in disbelief that we are riding 50km tomorrow on our bikes and I’m mapping the exact location on Komoot. We explain where we have been and they still look and laugh between themselves … they are extremely helpful and we are grateful that a room is booked.

Beppu has a nice feel … not too touristy down our end of town, it’s quite quaint by Japenese standards – narrow streets with the odd local street shop selling fruit & veg. We came across a covered market under the railway line. Fruit & Veg shop, fish shops selling fresh and frozen fish – some were being cooked to sell, a butchery. A dog groomer and pet shop and some clothing shops.

We venture up a hill towards the Beppu Global Tower, what an icon – oh! there is a lift; at a small cost we go up to the viewing platform 125m high what a sight a 360° view of the city, across the bay and of the surrounding hills. We realise we are almost the same height as our hill climb to the waterfall yesterday.

Not only does Beppu have the ‘too hot for you’ boiling onsens, the town is also filled with traditional Japanese onsens located around the city where the locals enjoy the benefits of the mineral waters, these are a very cheap cost of ¥100 (AUD$1.25), prices vary to ¥1000 also the composition of the water varies; chloride, sulfur, hydrogen carbonate, there are also sand and mud specific onsens.

We had a 5 minute short walk and went to Kitahama Onsen Thermos – girls to the left; boys to the right. There were choices – strip and enjoy the steaming hot water in three different pools all of varying temperatures. But you must wash beforehand; also a mist sauna and outside pool. Lovely! Then don your bathers and go to the mixed gender pool – 3 lovely pools of different temperatures overlooking the bay and mountains. Spray jets offering a back massage. Also dry sauna to enjoy. Just us and another couple … that is all … the best value for money at ¥510.

A bit of admin done – Komoot routes done for next 2 days and accommodation sorted. The lovely lady here phones to book another AZ hotel for our arrival in Honshu in 2 days time – I love this travel!!

Only in Japan …

Pachinko parlors –

We have passed by what looks like a casino in the last few towns but never ventured inside. Today as we walking to dinner we went into a Lucky Pachinko Slot parlor. It was filled with rows upon rows of slot machines … people of all ages glued to their machine. There was a sign as we entered that you have to be older than 18. The noise was absolutely horrendous … I think standing by a plane taking off would be less noisy. I asked if I could take a pic? … no – sorry. A quick google search and my curiosity was satisfied about this new institution. More info here.

It’s not just about the ride …

A wonderful day … leaving Oita City – a nice city – very warm feeling about it. Only 16km to Beppu the heart of the onsens in Kyushu.

The ride in was a cinch … a wide cycleway along the coast, however the day’s work has not finished. We were lucky to be able to check into our hostel at 10am – dump the panniers and off to discover Beppu.

The hostel is only 3 weeks new – traditional Japanese – we have a straw matting floor and a low table. At night we lay out the bedding … lovely shower and toilet … a communal dining room with free coffee service, kitchen, microwave and refrigerator … Perfect!

A trip to the information office at the station. We are limited but determined to find at least 1 of the 4 waterfalls in the area. We have quite a climb and are rewarded with a lovely view of the city and the waterfall which is magical – I feel like fairies and gnomes should appear. Reminders of a favorite movie, Disney’s The Gnome-Mobile – showing my age here!

Next is the famous onsens … we have another climb – there are 7 separate onsens – we were advised to visit 2 of the most popular – we take the advice … as we approach the area we see puffs of steam emerging from drain holes in the streets. We pay to see the Umi – such a lovely setting … a foot bath, a red pool and a blue pool – they are far too hot for use – the gardens are manicured as well as the Japanese do … perfect!

We go down to Kamado Onsen it is very busy and closes in a half hour there is a bus tour in and very congested, not quite the serene atmosphere of Umi – a man with a microphone wooing the crowds to see the chemical reaction of smoke on the vapours of the sulfur fumes at the different ponds … all very entertaining but not half as good as the previous experience we have just had.

We leave thinking we were lucky to have seen Umi and its tranquillity … and also visited Unzen a couple weeks ago where it was free and in its natural environment.

Closer to the town there are many onsens that are for bathing – I’m hoping to discover at least one tomorrow.

Back at the hostel … in the communal area we meet some Koreans and Dutch; the receptionist is only 20 and has an interest in English and Korean languages – so we talk – such a sweet young lady. Furthermore, on our way in today we met some Dutch cyclists … life is wonderful.

Only in Japan …

Pedestrian crossings –

In the major cities we have noticed that not only does the little green man light shine to cross the road, all manner of sounds can happen. There are voices talking to the pedestrian; music plays or a bird sings … earlier on – John thought a bird was following him until he ‘got it!’

Volcano active …

We leave the hotel at 7:30am enroute to the train station – a short 7 minute walk, the rain has gone and it’s bright and sunny, we walk through the covered mall; joined by students and business men all suited up – only a few cafes are open for a caffeine fix and bite to eat … Monday morning!

The ticket office is empty of customers so we get our tickets with no problem. A bakery at the station provides us with pastries … that’s breakfast – not good as I won’t be riding today 😦

We have a 2hr30min train ride and 45min bus to Aso.

Arriving at Aso all the walking tracks to the crater of Mt Nakadake are closed; the crater that can be accessed by tourists, however today it was banned, no access within 1km … all was not lost – back to the Volcano Information Centre from the viewing platforms of our surrounds, breathtaking views of other mountains, the Green Plain and the Aso Valley. It’s such a wide landscape here looking at the barren mountains … a lovely day.

Just up from our hotel is Funai Castle dating back to 1562 its been burnt down in the passed, now is just the moat wall and turrets and lovely garden areas.

Only in Japan … (with respect)

Toilets

Japan is a great place to visit as a tourist where public toilets are concerned. They are plentiful, you are not charged for an ‘act of nature’ and they are super clean … but it doesn’t stop there …

Around the town and public monuments you will aways see a toilet … on the road all the convenience stores (Lawsons, 7-11, Family Mart) all have them.

The best is the additional extras to the standard Aussie ‘loo’. The seat is heated, when you are finished you have a choice … shower or bidet (or both) bidet for #1’s – for us girls and shower for #2’s but it don’t stop there … you can change the water pressure as well.

There is also a 🎵 button – mainly in public toilets not hotels – this is for privacy – in my experience so far it is the sound of water flowing to deafen any sound that you may be making.

So a trip to the loo can be quite an involved, pleasurable experience.

Sit, pedal, enjoy …

Last night we ate at the hotel … very good choice – John had like a sukiyaki (as well as much more), great variety and very reasonable AUD$12 – we will be onto hotel dinners in future.

Breakfast was just as exciting – miso soup and other traditional dishes.

Today’s ride was amazing … perfect weather the shortest and longest 61km ride. We had a small steady climb for about an hour, nothing strenuous, busy soaking in the nature, then we seemed to be descending for the remainder of the way.

We were weaving through a valley, a river below and hills either side. Quite a few tunnels to go through the longest being 897m long. Beautiful scenery passing small villages then into built up areas as we approached Oita, the last 10km was fun trying to get to our accommodation.

We arrived in a light shower of rain – we were damp but not wet.

On the way in we accidentally came across a ‘real bakery’ how could we say no! A slice of pizza and small pastry … yum! “I bet people come for miles to buy from here?”, I said. John said, “I think you are on the money there!!”

The hotel is about 500m from the main shopping mall and 1km from the train station. Extremely helpful ladies in the Tourist Information office at station. We quickly booked another night here to allow tomorrow to train/bus to Mt Aso.

Meanwhile we are able to use the washing machine (¥200) and drier (¥100) in the hotel. Happy days!!

Just for something different we had Sri Lankan for dinner, lovely meal … thankful we ordered ‘normal’ not ‘hot’.

Only in Japan …

Tea fields – we have been mystified by some extremely manicured crops over the last week or so. Looking like an azalea hedge, in rows with very little space between the hedges. Strangely there are fans above them … research reveals they are tea plantations. More details click here.

PS – all pics are now uploaded for 11&12 April.

I hear the pitter patter of feet on the floor from other rooms this morning … we open the curtains at 6am – what a glorious day … surfs up, well for those that dare, and there are several surfers catching what waves there is.

We have a long 90km ride in hills – not too sure what to expect, we take off at 7:45am.

No accommodation booked at this stage for Saiki – we pass by a hotel chain and stop and ask if they can book us in their Saiki hotel … I love Google translate … a phone call and we are done … pressure off.

A good flat ride to start – nice coastal views more beaches with surfers enjoying the morning – before we know it we had covered 30km – a stop at 7-11 for coffee and refuel.

We cut into the hills and at awe at how pretty it is – a few roads that lead to expressways and then we almost have the road to ourselves. Tree covered hills around us and river below – some serene views – the river is so crystal clear we see some fish. The kms melt away – climbing is just steady so we enjoy the serenity. We go through too many tunnels to count, as we weave through the hills.

Finally a long descent and we are at the hotel in record time at 1:45pm.

Over the last 2 days (travelling by the coast) we have come across lots of signs for Tsunami evacuation locations.

Only in Japan …

The 5pm bell –

A few places we have been to have music playing from loudspeakers in the streets … sometimes at 12pm or 5pm … the music sounds familiar but I can’t place it … upon further research I found some information on this clink on the link to find more.

We’ve done it again … haha no wifi

This time John was conned looking for a seaview room. However it is a Friday and we are on the coast which is popular for surfers so accommodation was at a premium. We are at a guesthouse with traditional room with futons – I sort of like that style every now and then.

A bit of rain overnight; cloudy this morning – no rain … we’re lucky again.

A 66km ride through flat open agricultural areas – mainly rice paddies – I’m blown away by the rice paddies – I just love the Japanese rice, short grain it sticks together, perfect for chopsticks, but not gluggy.

We ventured near the coast on a nice, flat, quiet road we were directed by a surf beach sign the rice paddies are right by the beach the a small amount of bush so we couldn’t see the beach. Then out of the blue we were heralded by a man waving at us – we finally thought he was trying to get our attention so we stopped, he caught up and said,

‘Do you want to come to a party?’

We were flabbergasted, out of nowhere he’s wanting to party. It seems that they will finish planting the rice today and having a celebration afterwards and we were invited. Unfortunately are accommodation was about 10km away. His English was very good and said he’d been to Australia a few times.

Meanwhile at our guesthouse, we have the beach at our doorstep – the waves are rolling in as we sit on a rock, enjoy a beer and wait for our washing (in a washing machine) to finish – there is no question of getting the washing dry tonight.

We are 7km from Hyuga – just the guesthouse/restaurant and a convenience store across the road. We eat at the restaurant watching 2 lone surfers attempt to catch a wave. I ordered fried fish, sashima, miso soup, rice set. A feast for under AUD$15 – I’ve never tried sashimi before – it was nice; the fried fish delicious along with the miso and rice.

As a side note … Hotels

They come equipped with everything, apart from the standard soap, we have shampoo, conditioner, toothbrush, toothpaste, razor, hairbrush, shower cap, hairdryer and more at some. Why am I lugging 1kg+ of toiletries around … just in case …

Most with a yukata (cotton komono) which I love wearing!!

Fridge, kettle, tea (sometimes no coffee). Most hotels have microwave ovens and presses for guest’s use.

The beds are interesting of all sizes – small double; standard double; a queen and of course who knows what at a ‘Love Hotel’. We’ve had some very close nights in bed.

On arrival yesterday I was offered a freebie ‘Bright Essence Sheet Mask’ umm … I wonder; I am in my cycling gear checking into the hotel; ridden just shy of 70km and 59 years old … what are they telling me? Or was that a ‘no wifi’ softener? 🤦‍♀

I’m hoping to post pics when I get a good wifi connection.

What!! No wifi … oh dear 😥

I got conned, I booked the hotel after reading the great reviews about a large room and queen sized bed … woohoo – a rareity in Japan … I leapt at the chance but didn’t realise there was no wifi. But the room is good with a comfortable sofa. This is like the power and water being turned off … I will survive – there are convenience stores and shopping centres with wifi. Photos may be problematic though.

Back on track – a lovely day for ride – we backtracked 10km first thing without panniers to see a waterfall we missed yesterday a nice ride through the backroads and agricultural areas – I’m glad we went, lovely park area.

Further on we are heading east to the coast of Kyushu … we had a great ride through the hills, the agricultural areas are amazing with rich dark soil, widespread crops of a mixture. The hills were manageable and photogenic – varieties of colours amongst pines.

About 10km from our destination “Komoot what are you thinking” we are on a very old road fit for mountain bikes or as John puts it ‘a goat track’ we persevere through dense forest and finally come across rice paddies.

Back on the road – more agricultural areas heading into Miyazaki. Komoot guides us to the door of our hotel before crossing the Oyodo River. The river has paths on either side – recreational fishermen throw a line, bike and pedestrians pass by.

It looks like my wonderful pics will have to wait … watch this space until I get reliable wifi.