Tues 21 Mar … Tumby Bay

What time is it … I ask as we start putting up the little tent … then almost done … how long did that take?  … ’20 minutes’ says John, we laugh … from the moment we met everything was 20 minutes.  How long will it take to get to xyz?  20 minutes was always the reply.  I think he was always 20 minutes late too … I quickly changed that!!!

Only 40km to Tumby Bay!!  … what was I thinking. I could have ridden.

A beautiful calm morning, the wind has gone.  Before we shut the doors, we are there. 

At last some silo art as we approach Tumby, nice set up under a pink flowering gum, it’s nice to hear the New Holland Honeyeaters chittering away, pink blossom on the tent.

Originally, it was a 2 night stay … we have changed our mind … 1 night is enough.  Lots to do but with our bikes we have it covered in a couple of hours.

The mangrove walk; coastal walk; street art.  ✅️✅️✅️

We are off to see the Jingo Brothers at the local pub tonight … Steady Eddy … yep the real Steady Eddie.

Great night out.

Mon 20 Mar … Port Lincoln

That is a ‘real’ cream bun … I haven’t seen one since last time in the east. They just don’t make them in the west … remember those huge ones in Wilmington when we drove through Horrocks Pass and it was freezing cold it must have been 1981.

A very windy night and the tent survived.

A stroll along the foreshore in town along the Parnkalla Trail. Nice grassed areas, the locals getting back to their routine after a weekend and off on their power walk/stroll with a friend, men and women alike.

A walk along Delta Proude’s Jetty … nobody would be game to throw a line … it’s extremely windy.  As with most towns along the Penninsula there is a netted off area for swimming: this is the most impressive so far. 

It’s Monday and all happening down at Brennen’s Wharf, only about 500m from the city hub.  Road trains lined up to empty the grain into silos, the trail takes us within meters of the action as the grain dust blows our way.

100m further, a fishing boat has docked and all hands on and off deck as the boat is unloaded with the catch.  Bags of ice are poured in tubs full of seafood, they are wrapped in plastic,  labelled and sit by the refrigerator truck for loading.  These look like they are on the way to Melbourne. All in front of our eyes.

A nice coffee and vanilla slice and cream bun to share … I committed to share today … very unusual for me, haha. I think we chose the right place; it seemed to be patroned by locals, mums and bubs; seniors catch ups and all ages in between.

We make some minor adjustments to our set-up in camp with a trip to Bunnings and get some guy ropes with runner and trace springs … I’m getting more like my Dad. The awning is much more stable, although the wind has dropped a little.

To the Marina Hotel for dinner … lovely views and meal.

Sun 19 Mar … Port Lincoln

When the smallest things excite you … we succumbed to K-Mart yesterday and bought a $1 dustpan and brush … joy!!

A drizzly morning; a good time to explore the National Park.  It’s a Sunday and the Information Centre is open a great shopping strip on the foreshore bustling with people at the many cafes tucking into breakfast. A different scene today as the leggings and jumpers are out. We find a french patisserie and indulge. There is also an Arts and Crafts market in the Civic Centre … It’s all happening here on a Sunday.

The drizzle stops as we drive stopping at bays and beaches through the National Park. It’s cloudy with glimpses of sun and windy, however, depending on which side of the Penninsula you are at.

Not to forget the hike to the lookout of the Matthew Flinders Memorial with stunning 360° views.

A short ride to the Marina via the Parnkalla Trail, many wrong turns indicative of a marina’s maze of roads and waterways. We finally found the large fleet of fishing boats and the Marina Hotel, ‘Do you want a drink?’, ‘Yeah, why not’ seated on the boardwalk with lovely views … $10 … 2 drinks … it must be happy hour!! John was very happy!!!

Port Lincoln is the largest commercial fishing fleet in the Southern Hemisphere; with prawn, tuna, mussel, and lobster boats docked in the Marina. I wonder what this place would be like at 4am? … I don’t think I’ll ever know somehow.

It’s got really windy so much so that the awning comes down for tonight … John will have fun in the night when he gets up, trying to navigate the multiple zippers to get out of the tent 🤣🤣🤣

Sat 18 Mar … Coffin Bay to Port Lincoln

A short 40km drive to Port Lincoln but first we need to go to Almonta Beach, the lady in the caravan park said it was the best in Australia, according to her. Well the morning is perfect, no wind. Through the National Park with amazing views of the coastline. The last 500m was a rocky track, ‘watch that hole!!!’

‘OMG … this is beautiful’, as we head over the sand hill and see the most amazing … long!!! … beach. ‘I might just wet my feet’ says John, within five minutes we are both submerged in the crystal clear water.

True to her word … it is a very impressive beach.

Childhood memories of the early ’70s when two families went to Katherine, NT camping, hearing that Edith Falls was a great place, us in the Toyota Crown Station Wagon along very rough roads we made it. My Dad and his mate were both not game to abandon. It was beautiful (I’ve been there since … it’s a sealed road now) … I still have memories of that rough road.

Another wow moment as we head over a hill to see Pt Lincoln … the blue water and islands/penninsula ahead.

Oh no!, a roundabout; K-Mart, traffic lights – get me out of here!! The direction to the caravan park takes us out of the ‘hub’, and we are overlooking the bay with beautiful views … we’ll probably get blown away tonight.

I have carried these Aldi pots around and never used them, voila! Quietly John is shaking his head as we go into a fish retailer, I walk out with fresh King George Whiting fillets and shelled prawns. ‘Okay, John, we can pan fry the fish and add garlic to the prawns’

After a coastal walk, to the camp kitchen … pretty nice dinner if I say so myself.

Fri 17 Mar … Elliston to Coffin Bay

A great day … easy to pack up and a hot day.  A short 140km to Coffin Bay the reviews are amazing; best of the Penninsula in terms of beaches and oysters.

On the way we pass some drystone walling …

Drystone Walling
Located 22 km south of Elliston is an interesting sample of the drystone walling which was common in the area in the nineteenth century. It appears likely that the stonewalls were built by Chinese shepherds who arrived in the area after the European shepherds had left to seek their fortune on the Victorian goldfields. An excellent example of drystone walling is located at the parking bay near Tungatta Lakes. This wall was reputedly built by prisoners under the direction of a Trooper Harte and was used as a sentence for hard labour. The Tungatta Police Station, which would have house Harte and his workers, was completed in 1849.

An oyster tour … this will be interesting … we don the waders the deeper we go in the water … ‘oh!! I’m getting a wedgie’ the water pressure.  We are at a pontoon, learning about the region and oysters, how to shuck and to eat.  Surprisingly they were pretty nice.

Out of the waders and on shore it’s very hot so off to a beach … you got it … it’s called Long Beach, not sure how it got its name.  It is ‘long’ but also a ‘long’ way to get to deep water.  It was lovely and refreshing, crystal clear.

Thur 6 Mar … Elliston

It’s better on a bike …

Lovely day with a short 20km ride to see the Cliff Top Drive sculptures.  An attraction to the town.  We meander along the limestone roads with majestic views. Every few hundred metres, another sculpture to keep the tourists entertained. A table and chairs with shelter at one site.  Was this put there for the surfies? It looks like a popular surfing break. A lone surfer relaxing at the table; about 5 others way below waiting for their wave.  2 dogs eager for us and others to throw a stick placed strategically at our feet.  They must belong to the surfers. One surfer scrambles up the rocks how they get up, who knows, he’s probably been up and down these rocks for years.

Another sculpture, time to eat the vanilla slice we’d bought at the bakery, we sit on the edge of a cliff long enough to see a sea lion playing in the waters below.

Another short ride and swim at Little Bay, just minutes away from where we are camped.

Wed 15 Mar … Streaky Bay to Elliston

Lost in Translation ... 

'This holiday I want to go slow so we can see all the beaches along the way', she said.

'Why are we being overtaken by a caravan?'

'We have all day' he said.

But you don't have to drive sooo slow.

There are many ‘best $ I’ve spent’ moments … another is a gift for John … screw in tent pegs … I have claimed them … give a girl a drill!

A lovely day today exploring the rugged coastline as we head to Elliston.

Our first stop at Murphy’s Haystacks, out in a paddock are huge granite boulders.

Off to Port Kenny a very short jetty on Venus Bay and nothing much else, the hotel has a claim to fame with great meals and prices.

The South Head Walking Trail, at Venus Bay, great views of the coastline of bay and ocean. The crystal clear waters still blow me away.

Talia Caves, walking on large granite rocks, rock pools and the roaring waves.

Colten Bakehouse renowned for sticky buns and bread baked in a scottish wood fired oven. It operates via a roadside cash only honesty system, we were lucky to get some buns … bread was sold out. The best about this place is the reviews on Wikicamps. The buns were pretty good too .

Off to Elliston for 2 nights, a grassed site easy up for tent, no wind today.

We go to the jetty on the changing of the guards … the afternoon fishers are just walking out at 7pm and we are alone, ‘That was a dog barking, John? He turned around to see a sea lion poke it’s head up and look at us. He swims around, attracting our attention for a while, then evening fishers start to arrive, picking their ‘spot’ on the jetty.

What a great day … a lot cooler here and no wind … the tent will be much more comfortable tonight.

Tues 14 Mar … Streaky Bay day tripping

Where’s Wally … it’s like orchid spotting … you see the first one then you see them all. Spotting sea lions.

If I didn’t know better, I’d have thought I’d be on the Nullarbor … the country is very dry.

We are on our way to Point Labatt to see the sea lion colony. It is notable as one of the largest Australian mainland breeding sites for Australian sea lions. A viewing platform is on top of a cliff and we watch the colony below basking in granite rock and frolicking in the rock pools.

Our next stop is Sceale Bay. There is no wind and the bay is still, we walk along the granite rocks and find a lovely beach for a swim in the fresh, clear water, something out of a tour brochure.

The public toilet is worth a visit, ‘a room with a view’ a window overlooking the bay … a must see.

Onward just around the coast about 3km to Surfers Beach, another idyllic long beach deserving a swim. Small long waves in the shallow crystal clear waters and white sand. Such a lovely day for the beach today. The camping park is extremely hot on our return … maybe the wind over the last few days wasn’t that bad.

A night approaches, so does the wind … are we taking off???

Mon 13 Mar … Streaky Bay

Where’s the car keys?he says, ‘in my pocketthat was enough to start laughing fit!! 🤣🤣

The gusty wind let up sometime during the night to wake to stillness. I stirred at 5.50am … pitch black outside eekkk. Daylight saving finishes soon I hope. Yes, I’m on holidays … time doesn’t matter I know but it still does my head in. The fishers are on the move as I hear cars and boats moving around the camp, off to fill their fridges.

We are here for another 2 nights so we relax and have breakfast planning our days. It’s a long weekend … even the tourist office is shut today but they kindly leave a goodie bag full of info and maps 😁

Excitement, joy we are on our bikes … we ride into the township some 6km on a limestone track, my bike is travelling well with it’s new wheels. It’s nice to stop and take random pics in the town.

… the bakery is shut, Foodland shuts at 1pm, thankfully we get there with 15 minutes to spare to get some lunch things.

A drawcard of the Shell Service Station is a room with a replica of a shark that was caught in 1990. Along with that, it is owned by Indians who make amazing curries … that went down well tonight for our dinner.

A drive on the Westall Way Loop, taking in the rugged coast, sandhills, beaches, and snorkelling in the refreshing waters of ‘The Granites’.

Sun 12 Mar … Smoky Bay to Streaky Bay

I prefer numbers, I can remember them … 1 key for both of us, and I was sure I had it in my pocketA visit to the park manager to confess losing the key, only to find it in my back pocket. 🤣🤣🤣

A bit of movement in the park as people are packing up and off.  Daylight saving is doing my head in … I’m waking up too late.  Just the little tent to pack up ..  everything is covered in fine white powder … it’s the limestone ground. 

A short drive to Perlubie Bay, what a great little spot, very picturesque the beach is very flat and the tide is out.  The council camping sites are literally on the beach, peeps lowering the pressure of their tyres before they venture to one of the 20 sites – all prebooked … you need to be self sufficient including a toilet.

Perlubie Beach

Just down a bit to our caravan park a few kms out of town … it has excellent reviews.

Streaky Bay township is alive with revellers enjoying  lunch at the tavern.  The jetty has a few fishers, some young kids have caught 2 blue swimmer crabs, I alert them to one on the swim cage … they have fun trying to catch it to no avail.

The cool wind is keeping the temperature down as we venture around the coast on sealed and limestone roads to Cape Bauer.  From little bay beaches to rugged coast line.  We come across a group of fishers at Hally’s Beach taking advantage of the long weekend … salmon is running and they have fun hauling them in, in the rough windy seas.

Back to camp … it will be a flappy night … maybe ear plugs would have been an idea.

Streaky Bay Jetty